02-26-2021, 01:04 PM
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#61
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 702_SR5
At one point, I took the vehicle to my local dealer, explained what was going on, and asked them to fix it. What they did was rebalance and road force the wheels. Then (without telling me), moved them to the positions on the vehicle where the problems would be least noticeable. I realized this because I had numbered the rims and I saw they had been shifted around.
When the wheels were moved back to the spots they were in, there was practically no improvement in the ride quality.
I've stood next to the technician in different Discount Tire shops and watched them do the road forcing and force matching when needed. To me, the wheel appeared to be on the machine solidly. I'm not sure exactly what this adapter is that I've heard about, but I would expect them to have whatever was needed.
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So when you get your tires balanced, the machine will give the tech a Road-Force number. This is basically a simplified number telling you how egg-shaped the tire is. The higher the number, the more out of round. Most tires seem to average around 10-20; anything over 25 is basically impossible to balance. For my Coopers, I have 2 tires that are right around 10 and 2 tires that are right around 20. I put the low number tires on the front and the high number tires on the back and like magic, my steering shimmy is gone.
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02-26-2021, 07:57 PM
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#62
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Join Date: Mar 2010
Location: sw PA
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baldrik78
So when you get your tires balanced, the machine will give the tech a Road-Force number. This is basically a simplified number telling you how egg-shaped the tire is. The higher the number, the more out of round. Most tires seem to average around 10-20; anything over 25 is basically impossible to balance. For my Coopers, I have 2 tires that are right around 10 and 2 tires that are right around 20. I put the low number tires on the front and the high number tires on the back and like magic, my steering shimmy is gone.
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I had my new BFG's RF balanced @ the end of summer last year by a very reputable shop & my numbers were 3,5,7 & 8. I drive 48 miles 1 way just to get my tires balanced by this shop. Its worth every penny.
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02-27-2021, 11:55 PM
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#63
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by baldrik78
... I put the low number tires on the front and the high number tires on the back and like magic, my steering shimmy is gone.
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That's what the dealer was trying to do. I wouldn't have minded so much if they had discussed it with me.
Anyway, after they had it, the steering wheel shimmy still wasn't gone. Which was the main point: even the dealer was unable to get the wheels balanced well enough to significantly improve the ride quality. Nor did they tell me that a tire or rim was bad and needed to be replaced, or that there was some other problem.
I thought the wheels (tires) have to be rotated? Certainly there will be uneven wear (front vs rear) at some point. It seems you're saying I can just put them in the positions where they cause the fewest problems, then leave them there.
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02-28-2021, 12:48 AM
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#64
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 702_SR5
That's what the dealer was trying to do. I wouldn't have minded so much if they had discussed it with me.
Anyway, after they had it, the steering wheel shimmy still wasn't gone. Which was the main point: even the dealer was unable to get the wheels balanced well enough to significantly improve the ride quality. Nor did they tell me that a tire or rim was bad and needed to be replaced, or that there was some other problem.
I thought the wheels (tires) have to be rotated? Certainly there will be uneven wear (front vs rear) at some point. It seems you're saying I can just put them in the positions where they cause the fewest problems, then leave them there.
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That's what I had to do with my Falkens. Yes they are loud now but I doubt the life has been reduced all that much. And yes, I can't/don't rotate them.
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02-28-2021, 08:30 PM
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#65
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Location: Phoenix Arizona
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Only 45k and time to replace? Ive had mid pretty much from the beginning and now have 60k on them and they are just at the start of needing to replace them.
Last edited by TheJokingExplorer; 02-28-2021 at 08:43 PM.
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02-28-2021, 09:43 PM
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#66
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Join Date: Aug 2019
Location: Nowhere, Nevada
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Real Name: Dave
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Real Name: Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by sroodtuo
Goodyear Ultraterrain looks like a good option. Doesn’t seem to be much Goodyear love on this forum but I’ve never had any issues with GY products.
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In 1996 I bought a new Chevrolet S-10 4x4 pickup that came shod from the factory with Goodyear Wrangler RTS tires. Within a week I became painfully aware that RTS stood for “Really Thin Spare.” Ten flats caused by gravel stuck in the tread and one sliced sidewall later (two months), I installed my first set of BFG All Terrain T/As and haven’t had any serious issues since. Two sets on the Chevy, four sets on my 2002 Tacoma TRD and my first set on my ‘18 SR5 4Runner.
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03-01-2021, 12:03 AM
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#67
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Join Date: Nov 2018
Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TheJokingExplorer
Only 45k and time to replace? Ive had mid pretty much from the beginning and now have 60k on them and they are just at the start of needing to replace them.
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They do actually have a fair amount of tread, unfortunately I don't have a gauge to give you exact numbers. But given the problems I've had, I'm starting early on asking a variety of sources for input. Also, I don't care to run off-road tires down to or even near the limit.
BTW, I've never kept a set of KO2's this long. Sets I had in the past would have been shot by 45K. And that's with similar driving conditions and patterns. I recall at least once I was able to get a warranty credit toward a new set due to premature wear.
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03-01-2021, 10:45 AM
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#68
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Join Date: Apr 2020
Location: Middle TN
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For A/T's I've moved to the Cooper camp.
LOVE AT3 XLT's (run 2 sets now on 2 vehicles).
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03-01-2021, 11:21 AM
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#69
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Location: Las Vegas, NV
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finslayer83
For A/T's I've moved to the Cooper camp.
LOVE AT3 XLT's (run 2 sets now on 2 vehicles).
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What size are you running? They're not available in the stock size (265 70 R17).
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03-01-2021, 11:40 AM
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#70
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 702_SR5
What size are you running? They're not available in the stock size (265 70 R17).
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285/70/17
I see now they have the 265/70/17 in the "LT" variant. Only difference I think it sidewall design.
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03-01-2021, 01:11 PM
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#71
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Location: Lafayette, Co
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Real Name: Joe
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Secret is out
Ok guys, here’s a little secret that I would love to share. The new Jeep Rubicons come with either Falcon Wildpeak or BFG KO2 in a 285/70 R17. A lot of new Jeep owners run out and get 35 or 37 inch tires right away. So, check your local Craigslist and pick up some CHEAP KO2s. I got a set of 5 KO2s for $800 for my GX470. I have since seen them for anywhere from 550-750 for a set of 5.
BTW, has anyone tried balance beads in their hard to balance tires? New tech that might solve a lot of issues?
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03-01-2021, 03:10 PM
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#72
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Location: Bay Area, CA
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the KO2s are actually the best balancing tires for me. The stock Dunlops and Goodyear Ultra Terrains actually gave me steering wheel shakes.
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03-02-2021, 03:07 AM
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#73
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Location: Lakewood
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Toyo open country AT3s all day err day
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03-02-2021, 04:31 AM
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#74
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Is there any real world difference between the BSW KO2 vs. the RWL KO2?
I stopped at a local Discount Tire store a few months back to check out some different tires in person. The guy I spoke with said the KO2 BSW is an oem spec for Chrysler/Jeep/Ram. Apparently it has a different compound, and slightly different weight than the RWL KO2. He strongly recommended the RWL version. They had plenty of both tires in stock so it wasn't that he was recommending one tire over the other based on what they had available to sell that day.
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2019 TRD Off Road w/KDSS in silver. Dobinsons IMS59-50700 & C59-314 front (coil seats lowered 1/2"), IMS59-50705 & C59-505 rear; Dobinsons diff drop; Ironman UCAs; Eimkeith PCK, Ironman adjustable panhard rod, and Treaty Oak KDSS spacers; Toyo Open Country A/T III 255/80R17; C4 Fab skids & Shrockworks sliders; Durobumps front & rear.
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03-02-2021, 08:14 AM
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#75
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Location: Denville, NJ
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tuco S.
Is there any real world difference between the BSW KO2 vs. the RWL KO2?
I stopped at a local Discount Tire store a few months back to check out some different tires in person. The guy I spoke with said the KO2 BSW is an oem spec for Chrysler/Jeep/Ram. Apparently it has a different compound, and slightly different weight than the RWL KO2. He strongly recommended the RWL version. They had plenty of both tires in stock so it wasn't that he was recommending one tire over the other based on what they had available to sell that day.
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BSW - Black SideWall
RWL - Raised White Letters
What he is saying is possible. Jeep/Ram/Chrysler may have a certain spec of tire seeing as they come stock on the JL Rubicon, but that would be only in the 285/70R17. They also came in 265/70R17 I believe on some of the older JK special editions like the Big Bear. Which size you were looking at? The BFG KM they used to have on JK Rubicons were also Jeep specific in tread, compund, etc. Otherwise, FCA uses other tire brands on their vehicles (Falken, Goodyear, Bridgestone) and not much BFG. People seek out the Jeep ones because they are a C-Load, so that has been a good for most light SUV owners like us to have that in the market.
As long as the RWL version is the C-Load I'd go for that. Will you feel any real world difference? probably not.
I just put 265/70R17 Cs on mine and love them. Had KO2s on multiple vehicles now and have always been impressed. Great in snow, no rain issues, and offroad they are great. To me, they are one of the best tires on the market.
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Last edited by Pedro367; 03-02-2021 at 08:22 AM.
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