02-26-2021, 12:39 AM
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#31
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rageandlove
Because they came off a 2021 TRD Off Road and I drive a 2019 TRD Pro which has a 1" higher front-end lift, so left at factory they would be aimed too high.
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but according to your post, you actually aimed them higher first. because you were matching the halogen pattern on the wall.... Then you aimed them lower? Sorry, just alittle confused why you aimed them higher when you have a 1" higher TRD PRO than the other trims in the beginning....
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02-26-2021, 12:42 AM
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#32
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axix23
i am about to start a thread up on a complete 2021 retro fit including headlights and fogs.
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Nice. If you haven't already purchased the 2021 fogs, you might consider the SS3. They are superior in performance and the sport level is cheaper to boot.
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02-26-2021, 02:01 AM
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#33
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Already got everything. I am more of an Oem kinda guy. Lol
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02-26-2021, 11:52 AM
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#34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mynameistory
Nice. If you haven't already purchased the 2021 fogs, you might consider the SS3. They are superior in performance and the sport level is cheaper to boot.
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So I want to improve my headlights until I can put out the dough for the Marimotos. I’ll stick with halogen lights because it’s a halogen housing. Give me your best recommendation for halogen bulbs.
I have a 2020 TRD Pro.
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02-26-2021, 12:13 PM
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#35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axix23
but according to your post, you actually aimed them higher first. because you were matching the halogen pattern on the wall.... Then you aimed them lower? Sorry, just alittle confused why you aimed them higher when you have a 1" higher TRD PRO than the other trims in the beginning....
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Well, let me repeat myself, since apparently the first time didn't take.
When you change headlights, it's sensible to aim them. There's no guarantee that the vehicle you got them off had them aimed correctly. (Case-in-point ... if you look at my pictures above, you will see that the "factory" aim on my original halogens had the driver side light aimed about 1/2 inch or so lower than the passenger, so my truck as delivered from Toyota was off.)
So we can all agree it was time to aim them.
Now, you need to decide how to aim them, right?
I first used the Toyota aiming instructions to aim the lights, because it seemed like following OEM instructions would produce the best result. It did not. It produced dangerous results. Those instructions seem like they came from a Prius or something.
So then I read a ton of forum posts as well as several "expert" sites linked to in this forum, and found conflicting advice . There was the 2" school of thought, and the "above 39" it's 3."
So I figured I would start with the advice that put safety of others first and tried 3" below level. Not enough throw. So I moved to 2" and that seems to be reasonable.
So to those that bump into this post in the future, ignore Toyota and the experts.
It takes about 5 seconds to adjust the lights, so I'm kind of curious why you are so curious about a simple adjustment.
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02-26-2021, 12:42 PM
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#36
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umidkusername
So I want to improve my headlights until I can put out the dough for the Marimotos. I’ll stick with halogen lights because it’s a halogen housing. Give me your best recommendation for halogen bulbs.
I have a 2020 TRD Pro.
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Low beam H11 to H9 & high beam 9005 to 9011.
Take a look at this thread, especially post 122 and 123. Cutting tool post 126.
How To: Headlight Bulb Conversion (H11 to H9 & 9005 to 9011)
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02-26-2021, 01:33 PM
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#37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by umidkusername
So I want to improve my headlights until I can put out the dough for the Marimotos. I’ll stick with halogen lights because it’s a halogen housing. Give me your best recommendation for halogen bulbs.
I have a 2020 TRD Pro.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroBoy
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What electroboy said. This page keeps a running tab on the current best performers for the halogen H11 bulbs.
3rd Gen HID vs LED vs Halogen H11 projector headlights | Tacoma World
Ahead of nearly all of them, however, is the Philips H9 bulb. It's a high-beam bulb that can be fit into the H11 socket after a simple tab trim. It has nearly twice the intensity of the stock bulb while still retaining proper optics and distance projection.
It's what I run personally. Please note that as a higher intensity bulb, it will burn out more often than the H11 (about every 1-2 years instead of 4-5 like stock). They are usually pretty cheap to replace.
Amazon.com: Philips 12361B1 H9 Standard Halogen Replacement Headlight Bulb, 1 Pack: Automotive
If you're so inclined, the high beam bulbs (9005 series) can be replaced by the brighter 9011 after a similar tab trim. I run these as well.
Amazon.com: Philips Automotive Lighting 9011 HIR Standard Halogen Replacement Headlight Bulb, 1 Pack: Automotive
Take a look at my thread for all my lighting upgrades (lows, highs, reverse lights, auxiliary driving lamps, etc.).
mynameistory's not-a-build thread
By all means I do not claim to be a lighting expert. I just follow recommendations made by those that are. Good luck!
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02-26-2021, 06:17 PM
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#38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rageandlove
Well, let me repeat myself, since apparently the first time didn't take.
When you change headlights, it's sensible to aim them. There's no guarantee that the vehicle you got them off had them aimed correctly. (Case-in-point ... if you look at my pictures above, you will see that the "factory" aim on my original halogens had the driver side light aimed about 1/2 inch or so lower than the passenger, so my truck as delivered from Toyota was off.)
So we can all agree it was time to aim them.
Now, you need to decide how to aim them, right?
I first used the Toyota aiming instructions to aim the lights, because it seemed like following OEM instructions would produce the best result. It did not. It produced dangerous results. Those instructions seem like they came from a Prius or something.
So then I read a ton of forum posts as well as several "expert" sites linked to in this forum, and found conflicting advice . There was the 2" school of thought, and the "above 39" it's 3."
So I figured I would start with the advice that put safety of others first and tried 3" below level. Not enough throw. So I moved to 2" and that seems to be reasonable.
So to those that bump into this post in the future, ignore Toyota and the experts.
It takes about 5 seconds to adjust the lights, so I'm kind of curious why you are so curious about a simple adjustment.
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Your headlights weren’t off. You are.
You do realize that’s the correct setting from factory right? The driver’s side is supposed to be lower than the passenger’s side due to not blinding the incoming traffic. It’s like that on every single car.
No need to be an ass on here. I was just asking a simply question to your dumbass mistake of raising the height and then lowering it. And then trying to cover up the mistake.
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02-26-2021, 07:04 PM
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#39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Axix23
Your headlights weren’t off. You are.
You do realize that’s the correct setting from factory right? The driver’s side is supposed to be lower than the passenger’s side due to not blinding the incoming traffic. It’s like that on every single car.
No need to be an ass on here. I was just asking a simply question to your dumbass mistake of raising the height and then lowering it. And then trying to cover up the mistake.
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My word. Have you (1) looked at the design of the cut off on these lights or the halogens that were used pre-2021 and wondered what that stair-step design was all about or (2) cracked open the Toyota aiming instructions which clearly describes the exact opposite of what you are asserting?
Didn't think so. Perhaps instead of "helping me out" you spend a few minutes getting current on your information.
If you don't want snark, stop wasting time on forums trying to poke at people. This is a place to share information and help each other.
Have a good weekend!
Last edited by rageandlove; 02-26-2021 at 07:10 PM.
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02-26-2021, 07:05 PM
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#40
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It is normal for the driver side to be lower. I need to do more research but from my understanding, headlights over a certain height (36? 39?) have a 2" drop at 25 feet, while headlights below that are aimed level.
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02-26-2021, 07:10 PM
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#41
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So if you're adjusting yourself you should probably drop the right to 3" and the left to 2", right?
Generally speaking.
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02-26-2021, 07:25 PM
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#42
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mynameistory
It is normal for the driver side to be lower.
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Not with modern headlights.
The reason for the stair-step cutoff line is that it effectively lowers the beam path for oncoming traffic while providing longer throw in front of your vehicle.
You can see very clearly what Toyota wants you to do. Both lights along the same horizontal plane.
If you really want to get into it, there are other sites that talk about different beam patterns.
Daniel Stern Lighting Consultancy and Supply
And you can see that even for headlights that both throw the same symmetrical pattern, the approach isn't one headlight lower than the other, it's moving the hotspot off center.
Quote:
Originally Posted by mynameistory
I need to do more research but from my understanding, headlights over a certain height (36? 39?) have a 2" drop at 25 feet, while headlights below that are aimed level.
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Same site you can see he has measurements for when to lower 2" (up to 34.5"), 2.5" (35"-39"), and 3.0 (over 39" from ground). But when I did a bunch more research I found no consistency in what was recommended - it's all internet lore.
The only thing that is consistent is having the headlights at the same level.
Last edited by rageandlove; 02-26-2021 at 10:00 PM.
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02-27-2021, 01:30 PM
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#43
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Here’s another thing to be aware of with LED drop ins. Some of them with cooling fans create noise on the ground of the Skid Control ECU and kick off ABS/VSC errors.
DTC C0226, C0236, C0246 and C0256.
I found the Toyota Tech Tip for this and posted it in this thread:
LED Headlight bulbs causing ABS/VSC errors???
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02-27-2021, 11:03 PM
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#44
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroBoy
Here’s another thing to be aware of with LED drop ins. Some of them with cooling fans create noise on the ground of the Skid Control ECU and kick off ABS/VSC errors.
DTC C0226, C0236, C0246 and C0256.
I found the Toyota Tech Tip for this and posted it in this thread:
LED Headlight bulbs causing ABS/VSC errors???
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That's from a 4th Gen forum. Are the 5th gens also having problems??
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02-27-2021, 11:28 PM
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#45
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DallasTRDPro
That's from a 4th Gen forum. Are the 5th gens also having problems??
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Apparently a lot of 5th Gens too. That Tech Tip refers to 2014-2020 models. Bad electronic designs in cheap light assemblies can throw off a lot of EMI and ground noise.
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