I have a 2020 4runner, so the system came with an extra harness to attach behind the headunit. I got the speaker + amp system, no sub.

When I installed the speakers I noticed a definite improvement, but by chance the way I installed I ended up doing the amp days later.

Once I installed and hooked up the amp, I felt there was NO audible difference between speakers only and speakers+amp.

I've been dealing with OEM Audio Plus on my issue and they have been great, but I also wanted to put it out to the community as maybe others have noticed something or found a potential reason?

I've done tests as best as I can, having played the same song both with the amp connected and bypassing it (Which is annoying having to go back+forth changing the connections!)

I've tested it mostly with android auto, but have also tried with radio and sirius. I've tried low-ish volume at around 20-25, and higher-than-comfortable volumes at 40 - and I feel there is zero difference in the loudness or my perceived quality of sound between the two setups.

Anyone else have a similar setup? Done any testing? Noticed anything or found any potential issues?

I've also been wondering if this $2k USD upgrade is worth it or should I just mix n match my own components for half the price. The main selling feature I gather from buying the full OEM+ kit is that everything is literally plug n play so you're basically just tearing apart interior panels.

I had an issue with my amp so I ran just the door speakers off of my aftermarket headunit for a couple of weeks. It turns out they just needed to reflash the firmware for the amp and it worked fine. I still noticed a difference with the amp in place but I also have the single sub.

It's pretty good for not having to mess with finding components. Dual sub is even better. In the end you can do better on your own if you want to put the effort into it. I find that the sub is in the way of platform/drawer systems so in the future I may be removing it and going with a custom sub in the passenger side pocket.

I'd like to hear what the resolution is. Surely something is not right as I have read review after review about how much better the OEM speakers sound with the amp and DSP added to the mix. I'm planning to get one of their packages myself, so I'll be following this one. The only thing I can suggest is playing a high resolution format via USB for your sound testing.

I installed all my own speakers and I'm more than happy with it

How do you like your Halo9? With your speaker choice, did you have to cut and splice or were they P&P?

Very happy with my Halo9, the only thing I wish it has is wireless Android Auto, but for a bit older HU it's an awesome unit and works great.

All my speakers I wired Toyota plugs onto them and they were all plug and play

If you want improved sound the biggest difference I saw was adding sound deadening to the doors. This really made the speakers sound a lot better. Even the stock speakers hit harder. I do have the Orem audio+ with single sub and dual amp. It sounds great but you can get louder crisper sound out of a custom setup

Keep going round and round on this myself. I've almost pulled the trigger on the OEM+ speaker only upgrade a few times, but it seems to be backordered whenever I'm ready. I'm not sure I'm ready to give up any space in the rear for a subwoofer just yet.

The Tacotunes speakers seem like a possibility. Focal used to make a direct plug and play speaker, however it seems to be discontinued through Crutchfield. Anyone with direct experience on either setup?

I'm also confused on the rear door/hatch speaker setup. It seems like there are a lot of recommendations to try to find 2 ohm speakers to keep the factory impedance correct due to the rear door/hatch being wired in series. Unfortunately, most aftermarket speakers are 4 ohm units. Am I way over thinking this?

I am running Focal Flax series separates up front and coax in the rear doors off the OEM head unit. These are 4Ohm each....to keep the rears at 4Ohm, I just did some jumpers on the rear hatch. All installed with Taco tunes adapters and tweeter harnesses up front. I also installed a bunch of sound deadener in each door.....results are amazing compared to OEM. I think the whole thing set me back about $1200 and my time.

I did the speaker only package and would buy it again in a heartbeat.

vast improvement for me.

your mileage may vary.

I did OEM+ the speakers only, and dropped a lot of hush mat in the doors. Night and day difference.

*I was planning to do the Amp eventually but threads like this are scaring me off...

Well what's catching me up is I feel like I'm hearing what is virtually, if not literally, no difference. But that also just doesn't make sense to me.

No, it doesn't make sense. What's the latest word from OEM about this?

Yah that is the biggest selling point. When I finally reach audio upgrade on my mod checklist, I'll be going for the OEMA+ with dual subs, though I will be adding sound deadening to the budget. In my youth(20 years ago) I probably did around 10 full complete installed along with fitted sub box construction, half of those being my own so I feel the roughly ~$3k will be worth it. I've priced out both purchasing individual components myself as well as getting quotes from multiple shops and while I definitely could save a buck or two doing it myself, a shop is almost double for a mid tier system.

What people over look as one of the largest cost for a self install is the custom sub box, especially the one on the passenger side with the power outlet panel relocation. Now if a square/rectangular box wouldn't bother you then it would save a ton but I just can't go that route. The cheapest I found to do a quality box was $400 each and that was with no outlet relocation, meaning I'd lose that access. However I saw a few examples of their work and I'm not sure I'd be satisfied with the quality. So realistically I'd budget in $500 per side just for that. Again I'm sure I could do a good enough job for myself but I also know as a novice how much time, effort, wasted material from do overs it would be so no thank you.

Honestly I wish they sold a speaker free version where you just look at the spec sheet for the required resistance for each speaker and then add your own. I'd much rather go this route since there's really no info other than their own marketing on the quality of their speakers. However again, the T4R has some wonky speaker mounting so I'm not sure if the OEM+ speakers have the mounts already built in as part of the speaker's frame or is it a separate piece.