TRD Skid Plate Mounted w/ Studs 2010-2021 - Page 3 - Toyota 4Runner Forum

Saker · 07-03-2021, 06:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CutthroatSlam

Did this mod today and it was not hard at all. I did have to chase the threads on the rear holes, but otherwise, pretty straightforward. So much easier putting the skid plate back on. No longer hunting for threads with the bolts while also holding up the skid plate.

@CutthroatSlam

Took mine into the dealership several days ago and the sr tech that works on my truck was blown away at this mod.
He told me it made his job really easy removing and replacing the skid plate.

57HotrodVW · 07-04-2021, 12:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saker

I used blue loctite.

Red Loctite, if you have to remove the stud, you have to heat to 500 degrees F !

Hand tools can be easily used to remove fasteners secured with red Loctite. I've done it many times over the years.

Saker · 07-04-2021, 02:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 57HotrodVW

Hand tools can be easily used to remove fasteners secured with red Loctite. I've done it many times over the years.

FEATURES AND BENEFITS
Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners.
The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).

Loctite(R) Threadlocker Red 271™

YMMV

57HotrodVW · 07-04-2021, 03:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saker

FEATURES AND BENEFITS
Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners.
The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).

Loctite(R) Threadlocker Red 271™

YMMV

At most, you'll only need to use a longer ratchet/breaker bar/cheater pipe to remove fasteners secured with Loctite 271 (aka "red"). It holds better than blue, but can be easily removed with hand tools. Trust me, or try it yourself... 😊

Grug556 · 11-29-2022, 02:09 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Saker

FEATURES AND BENEFITS
Loctite Threadlocker Red 271 is designed for the permanent locking and sealing of threaded fasteners.
The product cures when confined in the absence of air between close fitting metal surfaces. It protects threads from rust and corrosion and prevents loosening from shock and vibration. It is only removable once cured by heating up parts to 500°F (260°C).

Loctite(R) Threadlocker Red 271™

YMMV

you can try 272 or other types. Most of the reds have lower melt points of just under 300F. Theres only a couple Red types that go much past that. Loctite has a chart listing all their min max temps and operating ranges. Ideally get one that has anti corrosive properties, can be used on bolts that are dirty and oily and resist vibration.

papadop88 · 11-29-2022, 09:45 PM

My dealer didn't strip one of my bolts, but the genius who used an impact driver to remove the skid broke off the welded nut in the support frame that the front bolt goes screws into. So now I only have one bolt in the front holding the plate and the two in the rear. It's extremely annoying. Anyone have a solution for that because I don't think this great solution Sake provided will work?

CutthroatSlam · 11-29-2022, 10:36 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by papadop88

My dealer didn't strip one of my bolts, but the genius who used an impact driver to remove the skid broke off the welded nut in the support frame that the front bolt goes screws into. So now I only have one bolt in the front holding the plate and the two in the rear. It's extremely annoying. Anyone have a solution for that because I don't think this great solution Sake provided will work?

Have a new nut welded in place.

papadop88 · 11-29-2022, 11:10 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CutthroatSlam

Have a new nut welded in place.

That was my first thought as well, but after taking a look at where the nut is, it's inside the support frame and there's no way of getting in there. The original welded nut is just dancing around in there. You would have to drill a large enough hole in the frame to get a welder in there to weld a new one. That was my only thought.

NB17Limited · 11-29-2022, 11:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by papadop88

That was my first thought as well, but after taking a look at where the nut is, it's inside the support frame and there's no way of getting in there. The original welded nut is just dancing around in there. You would have to drill a large enough hole in the frame to get a welder in there to weld a new one. That was my only thought.

Sounds like the dealer owes you a new piece. What was their proposed solution?

seatia · 11-30-2022, 05:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by papadop88

That was my first thought as well, but after taking a look at where the nut is, it's inside the support frame and there's no way of getting in there. The original welded nut is just dancing around in there. You would have to drill a large enough hole in the frame to get a welder in there to weld a new one. That was my only thought.

Pretty simple for a competent welder.

With a new nut, chamfer the outer edge a bit.
Drill a hole so the nut will pass thru.
Countersink the hole slightly.
Hold new nut in hole using a minimum 2"+ bolt threaded into nut.
With the new nut flush with the frame member, using a TIG welder, tack the nut to the frame member on the outside.
Remove bolt carefully, continue to tack in more spots and/or finish weld
When cooled off, chase thread with a tap if needed.

With a good weld, there should be no grinding flush needed.
20 minute task, max.

papadop88 · 11-30-2022, 03:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NB17Limited

Sounds like the dealer owes you a new piece. What was their proposed solution?

They never gave me one. Their only solution was to cut off the loose bolt that was screwed into the nut. So I brought it back to them and they just cut the bolt off and said tey took care of it. When I saw it, I realized they just did that and there's no bolt in that right front hole. So now the plate is just mounted using three bolts. It ain't going anywhere, but still. Really annoyed by it.

papadop88 · 11-30-2022, 03:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by seatia

Pretty simple for a competent welder.

With a new nut, chamfer the outer edge a bit.
Drill a hole so the nut will pass thru.
Countersink the hole slightly.
Hold new nut in hole using a minimum 2"+ bolt threaded into nut.
With the new nut flush with the frame member, using a TIG welder, tack the nut to the frame member on the outside.
Remove bolt carefully, continue to tack in more spots and/or finish weld
When cooled off, chase thread with a tap if needed.

With a good weld, there should be no grinding flush needed.
20 minute task, max.

Appreciate this Seatia! I'll look into it.

Grug556 · 11-30-2022, 07:34 PM

There are many grades of Loctite red, some require heat to remove, others dont. Blue is ok ive used it for years on various parts. I use to use alot of Green in specialty transmissions as well. This chart only has a few of their range but you get the idea. I think blue for most parts with red for specialty stuff

seatia · 12-01-2022, 04:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by papadop88

Appreciate this Seatia! I'll look into it.

The cost will be minimal if you do all the prep yourself and just employ the welding.

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