The purpose of this write up is to help others that may have or thought about using studs or bolts that act as studs while mounting the TRD Skid Plate.
DISCLAIMER: If you decide to do this mod, you are doing this at your own risk. Period.

If you have removed your OEM skid plate and are planning on installing a TRD Skid Plate, I advise chasing the mounting threads with a M10x1.25 tap or thread chaser.

The TRD Skid Plate arrives with the front bolts installed in the skid with a spacer and a retaining washer to hold the spacer in place on the bolt.

I removed the retaining washers and the spacers and put them aside.

Items ordered came from Belmetric & McMaster-Carr.

EDITED VERSION Rev 1.1

For the Rear Location
I used 2) JIS Medium-Strength Steel Hex Head Screws, M10 x 1.25 mm Thread, 70 mm Long bolts and came in from the top of the threaded part on the radiator support.
With a backing nut or jam nut on the bolt, place a washer on top of the radiator support, insert & adjust to length (3/4") and tighten nut, bolt will be locked in place.....
Never seize should be used sparingly to coat the threads for ease of removal.

For the Front Location
I had to make the fronts with 2) JIS Medium-Strength Steel Hex Head Screws, M10 x 1.25 mm Thread, 70 mm Long bolts cut with Dremel Tool to total length of 2 5/8” to bottom out in the forward radiator location.
I used 2) NJAM10X1.25YLW - Jam Nut Yellow Zinc to tighten the now cut bolts into place.
I used blue loctite on the fronts.

Once the front bolts have been installed, remove the jam nuts.
Now place the spacers on the forward bolts and slide them up into the recessed bracket holes, using a small vice grip, thread the retaining washers onto the bolt until it is tight against each spacer.
If there is a small bent area on the retaining washers, they will flatten out when the skid is tightened up or using the jam nut and a washer, one could flatten the retaining washers out prior to putting the skid plate on. Remove the jam nut and washer!

All bolts were Yellow Zinc.

Stainless Belleville Washers (WB16SS - Stainless Belleville Washer) and Stainless Acorn Nuts (NA10X1.25SS - Acorn Nut FINE Stainless) were used.

>>> NOTE <<< One could also use Stainless Flat washers (WFHV10SS - HARDENED Flat Washer Stainless Steel) and Stainless Lock Washers (WL10SS - Lock Washer Stainless Steel) if they prefer.
I am going to use oxide coated black hardware myself.


Install skid, install washer(s) and acorn nut(s).
Make sure the bolt/stud protrudes only 1/2” below skid.
You don’t want the bolt/stud to bottom out in the acorn nut !

Tighten to specs.

Attached Images

           

I need a set of the retaining washers for the front spacers. What size and where can I get these?

The yellow zinc finish will eventually wear off and the stud will rust, so best to keep some rust inhibitor on the threads. I thought about putting stainless studs in, but stainless softer and not as strong as the steel studs/bolts.

True...however in the application Saker is talking about, my gut tells me that, given enough force, something else is coming apart before the stainless stud does...like the radiator support perhaps?
FWIW, I used stainless on mine.

Then it will be time for a little never seize!

10mm ID
TOYOTA kit= +-$16.00
Try McMaster-Carr

So doing this, next time my skid is down. Thank you.

@AMLOR , @fkheath , @Charlievee


This thread requires EDITING of the first post.

So here is what I found out.

The short Studs for the rear of this mod are insufficiently brittle/weak.
You ask, how do you know this.... because I went out to check the nuts to make sure they were still tight using Belleville washers and upon tightening them each of the rears broke without much ft pds.

So the first post will be edited with the latest Rev 1.1

I'm due for Firestone to screw up my alignment again, but I always take down the TRD plate first, knowing that they would probably cross-thread the bolts. I love the look of the acorn nuts, but I was planning on just using nylock hex nuts. Thoughts?

Acorn nuts protect any damage and keep debris off the threads.
Nylocks would definitely work.

I've toyed with this idea on my stock skid plate. I always change my own oil, and I have used anti-seize on the threads of the bolts. I'd like to get away from those bolts, though, before I'm not paying attention one time and cross thread something. I've been looking at using Stainless Steel studs, with serrated locking nuts. Haven't pulled the trigger just yet... but that was the direction I was trying. Good to see I'm not the only one thinking of adding studs under there.

Thanks for the heads up. Waiting on the parts time meow. already have the S/S bolts holding it up, just need to find the best way to cut them.

I found the Dremel tool worked the best for me.

Was that the carbide cutting discs.

No sir, just a standard cutoff wheel.