Why use all this seemingly fancy stuff and then not use normal equipment like crossovers for the tweeters? Or not enclose the whole rear of the speaker and instead use it as an umbrella?

Trust me I’m still tuning, I haven’t quite figured it all out yet, my tweeters are extremely bright, I have them crossed at 2.5k and -6db now, this part of the install is definitely where the time is spent.

Good question, the crossovers that typically come with components in a box are usually fixed as far as crossover point and filtering, normally they’ll allow for some attenuation, the upside is ease of install, down side is you get what you get and it may sound good it may not, all vehicles are different with regards to interior characteristics. The 6x9 speaker I purchased is designed to work in an infinite baffle, so using an enclosure can adversely affect it’s performance. I used those baffles for a rain guard as water does get past the window. The factory speakers have a built in umbrella I found that out when I removed mine.

The difference with an active setup is the digital processor is your EQ and crossover it’s all programmable, the advantage is you have full control and versatility, you can use time delay to compensate for each speaker being different distances from the listener, you can adjust for the different acoustic response of a given vehicle and how the equipment is installed. The downside is that it has a very steep learning curve in regards to how it’s setup, the result when done correctly is an exceptional and well balanced sound stage.

Skidmarx reply was spot on. I'll add, my setup has 6 separate channels of amplification. I have tweeters custom built into the mirror mount cover by the A pillar, Dayton Reference 3" mids in the dash, and Dayton Reference 8" woofers in the door. With the DSP, I can time align, and eq each individual speaker by itself then turn them all on for listening. FWIW I've spent as many hours tuning as I have in the install.

I'm running an AMT tweeter so I'm crossed at 6.5k. I've been pleased with the Audio Frog curve which puts a gradual downward slope in the tweeter range. It also has a nice rise in the sub bass region which works much better in cars than a flat curve. Which curve are you using?

I'm currently running subless (will be added later). I get decent response to 30hz but my 8's currently cover such a broad range that the mid dip with that huge bump at 100hz really kills what I'm trying to do. Thank you so much for posting your input results. While I saw it in initial measurements, I had no idea they had an 21.5db swing that close.

No problem glad it helped you... I’m not familiar with AMT tweeters I assume you’re running 3 way active... must be nice having an those mid bass drivers, what did it take to fit them?

I’m trying to use the AF curve, but I’m not sure how accurate this iOS microphone is, I read it’s a reliable tool I’m just not very good with the tuning aspect, I will figure it out eventually, I’m thinking I may to run a different curve from 2.5k on up because my tweeters are harsh, not really sure if it’s due to reflection or if it’s inherently that way

Yes 3-way active. It really brings the image up. AMT is an air motion transformer. Very detailed without being harsh.

The 8"s weren't as bad as I thought they would be. I made some spacers with some marine grade plywood I had laying around. Using them for sub duty they can vibrate your pant leg.

Doing a budget build, so far about $350 in since I'm using some old Eclipse amps I had from the 90's.

I bet those door subs are awesome 😂 I think I’m too nervous to try a 3 way active, at least I have a 6 channel amp I could support that system, I’d love to see pictures of your install, PM if you have any

The 8"s begin to roll off at 40hz but still fairly strong at 30. I'm using a subsonic and rolling them off at 30hz because they really struggle below that. With the music I listen to that's fine since there's little energy that low. The drums in Dire Straits Money for Nothing are outstanding. It's the best midbass I've ever had in a car.

3-way active was easier for me. I'm using REW and "Jazzi's tuning companion" with the Audio Frog curve installed. There are some other curves in it to try as well.

Not for nothing I've heard those 6x9 Frogs in a 4runner 3-way active. They were outstanding as well. They are what made me go for 8's instead of 6.5's.

I have a build thread on an audio forum. I'll PM you a link

Can you pm me the link to your build thread as well? I would like to see what you did to get those 8's to fit.

Sent.

For those who have requested the link and interested in working on budget, I will try to update that thread soon. My gear is nowhere near as high end as Skidz.

That would be great, hopefully it motivates other members to install custom builds, I’m making some headway with my tuning I figured out if I crossover at 3.1k I can quell the harshness, I’m gonna keep at it til it’s perfect

Excellent! I was wondering if raising it would help. I was going to suggest 3.5k but I'm not a skilled tuner yet either. I found the same with my tweeters. I also put a low pass LR 24db filter on my tweeters at 20khz. I have tested my hearing and can no longer hear above 17khz at my age (few people can hear all the way to 20khz anyway). Even in my 20's, being as honest as I could, I could never hear above 19khz.

Do you do all of your tuning through the Audio Control software? Can you install custom curves? I use Jazzi's tuning companion. It is an excel spreadsheet that allows you to pick your curve then crossover points. Then it makes separate curves for each speaker so you can tune them individually. This can be done manually in REW but the spreadsheet makes it easier because It saves the individual curves and the overall curve in a group, then I just use them as needed.

I have been using the Audio Control software and iOS mic plugged into my iPhone, so far it’s been working well, but yea the steep learning curve is apparent 😆 I believe I can upload custom references curves with the Mobile Tools app, I’ve read about the Jazzi tuning, but I don’t know where to access those files, the other challenge is that the Audio Control mic is for iOS devices, so I’m not sure I could use REW, I haven’t checked to see if it works on mobile devices. Perhaps I can load those curves into my mobile app?

I thought I was happy with 3.1k, but the stage felt very shallow, I then went the other way and tried 1.8k and it feels more real, I think the annoying frequencies are out of the crossover range, at least I’ll find out when I get more time to EQ grind 😆

That's always a tough battle with the mid and tweeter so far apart. I think the Audio Frog GS25 would be a perfect fit in your setup. They sound very good and make bringing your stage up so easy.

I say that because the guy the guy I off-road with has the same 6x9s you have with the GS25 and GS10 up high. He is also subless currently. It's the system I heard that got me back into the hobby and got me into DSPs.

You can download Jazzi's spreadsheet at Car Audio Junkies where my build thread is. It exports text files you load into your tuning software. You can also download the Audio Frog curve in different formats from their site.

What are your plans for the next stage once you get the tuning finalized on the front stage? Definitely following the whole build.

Another tip that may work...I noticed above, you were using a 6db slope on the tweeters. I seem to have better results with 12 and 24db slopes when trying to cross tweeters lower. That can bring the stage up a bit but, can also sharpen the transition to the mid. Maybe a more experienced tuner can provide better advice but, it would hurt to play around with steeper slopes and see what the results are.