I'm finally able to get going on my custom audio upgrade! I will be installing an active 2-way front stage using the factory HU (non JBL), I will be documenting everything from installing the power cables to tuning the system, I hope to provide valuable information for other members that are eager to do their own install as well, not that I'm against the complete PnP systems, but they aren't as good ;) here's my list of components...

Core components:
- Audio Control D-6.1200
- Audiofrog GS690
- Audiofrog GB15
- JL Audio 10W0v3 in a slot ported enclosure
- Dynamat Xtreme and DynaLiner

Installation/Accessories:
- Audio Control AC-BT24 BlueTooth adapter
- Audio Control ACR-3 remote level controller
- Audio Control SA-4100i calibrated microphone
- Crutchfield CK4 amplifier 4ga OFC power install kit
- InstallGear 16ga OFC speaker wire
- Various wire sleeve, cloth tape, cable ties
- 47uf 100V non polarized capacitors for tweeters
- Road Kill speaker ring kit
- Metra ‘in radio’ harness
- 1” HDPE for speaker adapters
- Toyota dash speaker adapters

I should start seeing equipment by Friday and I plan on at least getting started with running the power cable and doing sound deadening in the front doors this weekend.

A major concern of mine is how I'll deal with the factory HU as I'd much rather leave that intact because it does everything I need, luckily the D-6.1200 has an integrated Digital Sound Processor that can perform input summing... for those that aren't familiar with this it basically takes multiple signals and combines them into one removing any 'eq' effects... so I can take the front and rear speaker channels and run them through the high level inputs of the DSP, combine and clean the signal, then use that signal to process and tune for the amplifier... additionally, the AccuBASS function can be used to correct any bass roll off as volume increases. I'll be running each driver actively using individual channels, so I'll be using capacitors inline with the tweeters for protection (not trying to smoke a set of $400 tweeters). The subwoofer will get a bridged set of channels for 400w RMS which will be plenty. As for tuning I got the Audio Control calibrated microphone that is compatible with iOS devices, so I can plug it into my iPhone and use the mobile tuning app to run an RTA (Real Time Analyzer) and set my time delay, crossovers, and left/right EQ. Sounds good on paper, we shall see

I'll be posting updates with pictures as I move along and any feedback will be appreciated (good or bad)... this is not my first rodeo, but it will be the most complex for me as I've never tuned a DSP before, so I'm excited! Thanks for staying tuned

Initial time delay and EQ settings on page 3

Good luck with the install! I have Audiofrog GB10 in the tweeter spot and GB60 in the doors. Did you go GS690 for price? If not I highly recommend the GB60.

I did go that route do to budget, I was originally going to use a JL VX800/8i amp as well, but it was getting up there in cost... i REALLY wanted the GB60, but we’ll see how the GS690 performs I’ve read that it’s no slouch

I thought about the Metra harnesses, but I also ordered the speaker plates, they look beefy and would save me time on fabricating them myself, we’ll see I’m still trying to get an answer from them... what you’re saying about the T9 does sound appealing that would be amazing, my budget has a lot to do with my decisions at this point, luckily upgrading in the future would be easy

Slight change of plan since Tacotunes is currently moving into a new building they are not shipping orders right now, so I ordered the Metra harness for the radio and I’ll be building my own speaker adapters (should be fun lol), I did start doing some sound deadening today using Dynamat Xtreme and DynaLiner, typically I use Second Skin products, but I got a good deal on Dynamat, so we’ll see how this goes

Started with removing the moisture barrier, next cleaned all the surface areas with multi surface cleaner followed by acetone, then applied just enough Dynamat Xtreme to deaden the panels, then covered the open holes... I’m sure I’ll receive some criticism as I didn’t use MLV to cover the open holes, but I just don’t like all the added weight... next inserted the foam back wave diffusers, I had to trim around the crash bar, but it was an easy task... finally trimming a piece of 1/4” DynaLiner to cover the door, admittedly I prefer the Second Skin overkill it just seems more dense... next I’ll be fabricating the speaker adapters, I’ll keep the pics coming

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Got quite a bit done today starting with finishing the speaker adapters, I ended you using 1” HDPE which is fairly easy to work with... now mind you I’m no carpenter, so I did the best I could with a jigsaw, bring out the flamethrowers 😂. I used Dynamat on the backside of the adapter plate to serve as a gasket, I also bought XTC baffles for the purpose of a little overhead moisture protection, just used a blade to trim them and you’ve got a cheap umbrella.

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Got wires ran into the doors using the trusty coat hanger to fish em through the door boot, this was rather easy in comparison to other vehicles, the boot comes loose quite easily from the door jamb with some manipulation, then unbolt the two 10mm bits from the door where it attaches, using care you can also unclip the door seal from the inside using some needle nose pliers to gain some room to work... final result is a happy frog 🐸 a finishing touch I thought I’d try is attaching the foam rings from my Road Kill kit to the inside of the door panels since it fits perfectly around the plastic baffle, I’ll just need to spend some time fitting them once the panels go back on, this should ensure all sound comes out with no wave cancellation.

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Next I worked on the tweeters, I purchased a set of Toyota dash speaker adapters from Amazon to mount the tweeter, they’re not the greatest quality, but inexpensive and easy to work with, I ended up removing the gray trim ring from the tweeter because believe it or not it’s a tight fit with the factory grille... I took a noninvasive approach and ran the wires up the channel on the A-pillar, just pull the weatherstrip back and work the wire in before reinstalling the weatherstrip... since I’m running an active crossover I used a 47uf 100V non polarized capacitor inline for protection, just connect it in series on the (+) wire, this will filter out lower frequencies and erroneous signals and prevent tweeter blow outs... end result is another happy frog 🐸

Sorry for the sideways photo 😜

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Last thing I did tonight is run the power wire for the amplifier/DSP, I chose to mount it under the passenger seat due to having more room in the rocker channel compared to the driver side, the firewall grommet on the passenger side provides easy access, fortunately I have a handy wire installation tool that fits 4ga wire, just insert it through the grommet and run your wire through, the rocker channel has harness clips that I used to keep things clean, just use a pry tool or pocket pry bar and pop the clip, the carpet can be unclipped the same way to give more room to work.

I still need to figure out where I’m installing the fuse block under the hood, once I do that I’ll finish the connection to the battery

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Nice work, following this project!

Finished wiring everything up today, with a Metra 71-1765 ‘in radio’ kit I only needed the black 10 pin connector for the speaker outputs, the rest of the kit is unused in my install, I ran those to the high level inputs on the amp for my signal, next mounted the remote level controller below the HVAC controls which I’ll use for subwoofer level.

Mounted the under hood fuse block on a relay cover using Velcro, that way it’s not permanent and can be removed if needed, mounted the amp under the passenger seat which didn’t turn out too bad, found a threaded hole on the forward seat chassis mount under the carpet, I just removed the paint for a good connection.

Again with sideways photos sorry 😣

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Started doing some tuning today, unfortunately I’m not proficient in this art, so I’ll be at it for days if not weeks fine tuning, I’ve attached to profiles of the input signals from the stock HU... first one being a full range signal from the fronts with a huge bump in high end and low mid range... second being a more high frequency weighted profile from the rear channels, I thought it was interesting... doesn’t appear that the bass rolls off with volume it stayed consistent.

Please let me know if there are questions I’ll do my best to assist, thanks again for tuning in.

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How did you measure the stereo output signal? I've been fighting that crazy OEM EQ with my dsp. I've only been measuring speaker output with a mic but knew there was a huge dip.

The Audio Control unit has a built in RTA, it also has an auto EQ function to flatten the signal which makes things easy, I did purchase the calibrated mic to dial in the tune considering vehicle characteristics, but I still have lots to learn about how to properly use it... I’d say I’m at 75% of where I want to be at this point.

What kind of DSP do you have?

I'm using a Dayton DSP-408. I can get a decent tune but I'm pulling a lot down to compensate for the dips in the factory signal since the 408 does not have an input eq.