If the bolt worn out, I can replace it. but what if the bracket

If the bracket is slightly worn and the bearing surface still smooth, consider taking up the slack using a thin washer on the bolt head side. First step, identify what part(s) are either worn and/or out of spec. Then decide the best means to repair. What is the gap? 0.010 ins? 0.020 ins? More? One side? Both sides? Must also verify bolt and bracket threads are still OK.

Got it, Thanks again.

DougR what do you think, the numbers are pretty much the same. While removing the shocks i noticed they were over tighten. I didn’t use a washer as you suggest could not find the right size. Will do it on the weekend. But still should I go with washer or go with full shocks replacement.

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Nice what? Bad shocks or numbers)

Your ID and OD measurements on the bushing sleeve look good. Clearance is needed so that the shock can be removed when rust is present.

If the shock bushing sleeve was tightly clamped, I would have expected less rust on the clamped ends of the sleeve. Looking at the photos, it appears there is no clamping force on the passenger side and light clamping force on the drivers side. I suspect the passenger side was clunking and drivers side either less clunking or not clunking at all.

Measure overall length of the shock bushing metal sleeves. The sleeves on my shocks measure 1.785 inches.

Use the depth rod to measure the length of the shank on which shock is mounted. This measurement should be a little bit less than the bushing sleeve overall length in order to produce a clamping force on the bushing sleeve.

Post images of both shock mount bolts showing the portions that clamp against the shock bushing sleeve. I want to see how the load bearing surfaces are machined. When the bolt is tightened, the clamping surface must bear down on the shock bushing sleeve, and not touch the shock mount shank.

Post photos of the shock mount shanks, focusing on the area of the differential bracket, to see if there is excessive wear on the clamping surfaces in that location.

DougR, I just updated my photos as they were taken not to confuse you. The first 4 pics I took while working on driver side. Than mounted everything back and start passenger side another 4 pics, Just don’t want to confuse you with readings. But the loose shock was at the driver side.
Will take more measurements tomorrow.
Thanks

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I did measurements on both sides of the shock as pictured

I’ve got some new pics today. I also rotate the driver shock and test drove again and notice less clunking nose but it was still there. I tried washer it helps a little bit but did not fixed the problem. I’m feeling new shock will be next

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Some more

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The noise occurs because the shock bushing sleeve is not long enough. Clearance is about 0.022 inches, which is enough to cause a rattle. I'm wondering if the clunking sound began shortly after the shocks were installed. How long have you had the shocks?

This is how I would fix it. Make two washers out of stainless steel shim stock, 0.025 ins thick. Inner diameter 0.75 inches. Outer diameter 1.250 ins. Shim stock could be up to 0.030 thick. It has to be thick enough so that the retaining bolt contacts the shock bushing sleeve and exerts an axial load.

Install as follows: First, shim washers on the shank, followed by the shock and then the retaining bolt.

I have these shocks for a little over 2 years and drove like 15000 mile with a few not crazy off road trips that all. I noticed clunking about 1 or 2 month’s ago and didn’t pay much attention to it.

I will still disassemble one shock at the time and drive the truck to make sure it’s really related to bottom shock mountings and than do as you recommend.
Thanks

Yes, that would be a reasonable action.

After you identify short sleeves as the root cause of the clunking, you could attempt to make a warranty claim on the basis of a manufacturing defect. The 1.766 and 1.769 measurements along with a link to the YouTube video may be acceptable to Bilstein to authorize replacement. Tell them a stock shock measures 1.785 ins. Did you buy the shocks and install them yourself? If a shop installed them, then the shop would have to evaluate the shocks and make a warranty claim.

Bilstein will have to look up the minimum to maximum dimension and verify that your sleeves are out of spec and the part number is correct for your application. Here's a link to Bilstein warranty claims Warranty - BILSTEIN

The warranty is 5 years. I think Bilstein or the shop will want a copy of your receipt to verify the correct shock part number was installed. It would be interesting to have their thoughts on this issue even if they deny a claim.

I'm still wondering why 2 years elapsed without the shocks making noise. I cannot move my Bilstein shocks because they are tightly clamped on the bushing sleeve by the retaining bolts. If a shop installed the shocks, perhaps they noticed the gap and installed something to take up the slack and it wore out and fell off? Did you install the shocks?

Me and buddy did the shocks, I can only blame ourselves. Does it matter which side of the bottom shock goes on a sleeve first or it doesn’t matter.