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Old 03-25-2021, 10:04 PM #31
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Originally Posted by Bonniem View Post
Me and buddy did the shocks, I can only blame ourselves. Does it matter which side of the bottom shock goes on a sleeve first or it doesn’t matter.
It doesn't matter which side is installed first. It's symmetrical.
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Old 03-26-2021, 04:41 PM #32
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DougR I did exactly as you devised except I couldn't make 0.250 inch shim so I did 0.500 and it worked. You saved me $200 min for new shocks. I drove it after and its day and night difference inside cabin don't here anything. Ill post a link after fix.
I will save you as a suspension adviser. )
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Old 03-26-2021, 05:31 PM #33
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x6xcQ05IQzo
Thanks again.
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Old 03-26-2021, 05:43 PM #34
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Originally Posted by Bonniem View Post
... I couldn't make 0.250 inch shim so I did 0.500 and it worked. You saved me $200 ...
You're Welcome! Just to be clear, in case someone else uses this fix ... you installed a 0.050 ins shim, not 0.500 ins as shown in the photo ... so, you're good :-)

I suggest one more thing to do. In one month, recheck the bolts to make sure they are still properly tight and you are good to go with a quiet ride. You have washers on both sides clamping the shocks, so recheck to make sure the bolts remained tight. I'm expecting the bolts will still be tight a month from now.

Last edited by DougR; 03-26-2021 at 06:08 PM.
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Old 03-26-2021, 06:59 PM #35
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Yes a 0.050 inch shim, that was the thinner shim I found in Home Depot

Last edited by Bonniem; 03-26-2021 at 07:01 PM.
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Old 03-27-2021, 11:08 AM #36
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Originally Posted by Bonniem View Post
My rear shock are Bilstein 5100 Series, not sure if i want to go with the same one, it lasted 15k at least one.
Your Bilstein 5100 did not wear out at 15K miles. Your bushing sleeve wore out from improper torque setting on the bolt. Add an appropriately sized washer on each side to take up the looseness and you’re good.

Sorry I was posting to response on page 1 and did not see reply above.
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Old 03-27-2021, 12:14 PM #37
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Add an appropriately sized washer on each side to take up the looseness and you’re good.
I recommended adding a shim (washer) to the differential side and not the bolt side. The retaining bolt already has a captured washer. Adding a 0.75 ins ID shim on the differential side such that thickness of the shim plus length of sleeve is a little bit longer than the shank it fits on is sufficient.

Adding another washer on the bolt side requires using a washer with a different size ID to make sure it remains properly piloted on the bolt during installation. A extra washer on the bolt side will not help if the shim on the differential side is not thick enough. The captured washer might be worn, however, it's thick and very little to no wear is noticeable on one of the posted images.

Last edited by DougR; 03-27-2021 at 12:21 PM.
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Old 03-27-2021, 03:00 PM #38
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Yep, I remember the guy was using 36v impact driver for all bolts and nuts during my lift kit installation. If i only knew that everything has to be torque up to specs that day I may not have this problem today. Everything comes with experience.
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Old 03-27-2021, 04:39 PM #39
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Yep, I remember the guy was using 36v impact driver for all bolts and nuts during my lift kit installation. If i only knew that everything has to be torque up to specs that day I may not have this problem today. Everything comes with experience.
No worries, after 252K miles on my wife’s 2014 SR5, I finally stripped a front hole on the front skid plate and cross the threaded a rear bolt. She had gone 2K miles over the normal change interval because she was down in SoCal getting injections done on her right shoulder. Myself, I had lithotripsy procedure yesterday to break up kidney stones. I’m peeing blood (expected) and going every hour, but I had to squeeze in this oil change. Should have done the studs and nuts conversion in the other thread. Now I will have to do that.
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