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Old 03-31-2021, 06:54 PM #1
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Parasitic battery drain help

Hey guys, did a search and couldn’t find what I was looking for. I have a 15 SR5. I’ve put 2 new batteries in since fall last year, just drained too many times in winter and got them replaced under warranty luckily. I threw an amp meter on, and I am drawing 175 Milliamps drain. I just went through every relay and fuse looking for issues. I only found 2 problems.

Trailer brake fuse, once pulled I showed a decrease of 20milliamps. So I ended up just unplugging and removing my brake controller.

Now the Dome light relay, when removed will drop approximately 60 milliamps. I don’t have any bulbs out, haven’t done anything with cheap Amazon led’s. Should I replace every single bulb with oem sizes?

My question is, everything I’ve been told is that 50-60mA is normal. So any ideas where to look next for the rest of my drains? I’ve removed all aftermarket electrical mods. So it’s a pure oem system. I’m lost, thought for sure I’d pull a fuse and find it. Thanks!

Last edited by RustyAb; 03-31-2021 at 07:10 PM.
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Old 03-31-2021, 08:10 PM #2
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Youíve removed all aftermarket electrical mods? What were those?
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Old 03-31-2021, 08:31 PM #3
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Youíve removed all aftermarket electrical mods? What were those?
Anything that I had tied in electrically. Disconnected my winch, took out my onboard air, ditch lights. Removed headunit and installed oem unit. Even pulled out my URD maf calibrator.
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Old 03-31-2021, 10:56 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by RustyAb View Post
Hey guys, did a search and couldn’t find what I was looking for. I have a 15 SR5. I’ve put 2 new batteries in since fall last year, just drained too many times in winter and got them replaced under warranty luckily. I threw an amp meter on, and I am drawing 175 Milliamps drain. I just went through every relay and fuse looking for issues. I only found 2 problems.

Trailer brake fuse, once pulled I showed a decrease of 20milliamps. So I ended up just unplugging and removing my brake controller.

Now the Dome light relay, when removed will drop approximately 60 milliamps. I don’t have any bulbs out, haven’t done anything with cheap Amazon led’s. Should I replace every single bulb with oem sizes?

My question is, everything I’ve been told is that 50-60mA is normal. So any ideas where to look next for the rest of my drains? I’ve removed all aftermarket electrical mods. So it’s a pure oem system. I’m lost, thought for sure I’d pull a fuse and find it. Thanks!
There are things that are always on you cannot turn off such as the key unlock button sensors.

How long does your 4Runner sit with out running the engine and charging the battery? Any decent battery should be able to last a month with out charging. If yours are not, get a better or different brand battery.

If you go over a month, then put a battery maintainer to keep the charge up.
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Old 04-01-2021, 12:37 AM #5
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There are things that are always on you cannot turn off such as the key unlock button sensors.

How long does your 4Runner sit with out running the engine and charging the battery? Any decent battery should be able to last a month with out charging. If yours are not, get a better or different brand battery.

If you go over a month, then put a battery maintainer to keep the charge up.
The battery is not the issue. Iíve measured that Iíve got over the normal drain.
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Old 04-01-2021, 12:49 AM #6
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How long are you actually waiting before doing your test and pulling fuses?? Some systems wonít go to sleep for hours after shutting down. When youíre pulling fuses you might be resetting their time out. If you can find out how long it takes for the system to go to sleep on the 4Runner. At 150 milli amps it should take about a week of sitting around before the battery goes dead. You still might have a defective alternator, an alternator could still undercharge and not turn the warning light on since it will only come on when thereís nothing coming out of it.
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Old 04-01-2021, 04:40 AM #7
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Anything that I had tied in electrically. Disconnected my winch, took out my onboard air, ditch lights. Removed headunit and installed oem unit. Even pulled out my URD maf calibrator.
No aftermarket remote start then? I had a similar drain caused by a remote start in a Corolla a year ago or so. Pulling the inline fuses fixed it.
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Old 04-01-2021, 07:22 AM #8
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No aftermarket remote start then? I had a similar drain caused by a remote start in a Corolla a year ago or so. Pulling the inline fuses fixed it.
Sorry I forgot to say earlier, I had an accessorides remote start that has also been pulled. Also a pedal commander haha.

Iím just stumped, that if I pull the dome fuse there was no change. But if I pull the relay, I had that drop.
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Old 04-01-2021, 08:19 AM #9
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Sorry I forgot to say earlier, I had an accessorides remote start that has also been pulled. Also a pedal commander haha.

Iím just stumped, that if I pull the dome fuse there was no change. But if I pull the relay, I had that drop.
If you think it's related to the dome light relay, maybe a flaky door or liftgate switch? You could try turning all the dome lights to 'Off' with the doors open and measure, then have someone depress and release each switch one at a time while you watch for changes. Then close each door one at a time (to hold each switch closed in succession) and watch for changes.

Still thinking...
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Old 04-01-2021, 01:33 PM #10
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Mine would run down until I removed a Bluetooth device plugged into the ODBC port. It was taking power all the time.
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Old 04-02-2021, 11:16 PM #11
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Quote:
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Hey guys, did a search and couldnít find what I was looking for. I have a 15 SR5. Iíve put 2 new batteries in since fall last year, just drained too many times in winter and got them replaced under warranty luckily. I threw an amp meter on, and I am drawing 175 Milliamps drain. I just went through every relay and fuse looking for issues. I only found 2 problems.

Trailer brake fuse, once pulled I showed a decrease of 20milliamps. So I ended up just unplugging and removing my brake controller.

Now the Dome light relay, when removed will drop approximately 60 milliamps. I donít have any bulbs out, havenít done anything with cheap Amazon ledís. Should I replace every single bulb with oem sizes?

My question is, everything Iíve been told is that 50-60mA is normal. So any ideas where to look next for the rest of my drains? Iíve removed all aftermarket electrical mods. So itís a pure oem system. Iím lost, thought for sure Iíd pull a fuse and find it. Thanks!

Hereís what I get for my 18 ORP. No remote start. I have made electrical mods, almost everything is on ignition power, other stuff is on switched constant power. Removed the OBDII interface dongle.

Hooked up the DVM in series with negative battery post wiring.

After getting out of the drivers seat, did not arm the alarm, and closing the door the dome lights etc are on for 30 seconds or so and it draws about 600mA.

Then it drops to about 135 mA and stays there for about 20 minutes.

Then the ECUs go into sleep mode and it drops to about 12mA.

I saw somewhere in a Toyota service manual that typical is 50 mA or less.
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Old 04-04-2021, 01:39 PM #12
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I have the same issue with my 1998. Measuring a 175 milliamps draining. When I check all the fuses and relays, no drop in the drain. Had 3 places check the alternator and all say it's good. Good luck and will keep following this post to see if you find a solution. And I'll let you know when I find mine.
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Old 04-04-2021, 01:53 PM #13
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I have a 2016 Limited with prox key. Takes about 30 minutes to go to sleep and rest around 50 - 60ma. I also have a remote start which is about 20ma, a telematics Drone unit which is 5 - 10ma but spikes to short bursts when talking with a cell tower, and a aftermarket radio with Maestro module at around 12m there. Dashcam also there which I havent measured but it does operate and record in an event with ignition off.

50ma should get you a week on a good, fresh battery that hasn't been drained before. Since I work from home for a while I was using a battery tender Jr with a quick disconnect cable out the front grill. I finally broke down and bought a hybrid Northstar battery from batteries+. The battery was well worth it since it's not a daily driver anymore.
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