04-17-2021, 01:44 PM
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#1
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Sportsman's Paradise
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Sportsman's Paradise
Posts: 266
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Time for new brakes. Input wanted.
I’ve got 93,000 miles on my original brakes and I’m looking to replace them in the coming weeks. I was planning to use OEM pads and started shopping around online last night. One thing that I noticed is that if I were to order the Toyota pads, that’s all I would get, just the pads. The aftermarket pads I looked at would come with a “hardware kit” that includes new clips.
My questions are, for those who have replaced your brakes, did you need anything other than the pads? Did you reuse the original clips or replace them?
Cost/work isn’t an issue for me. The options I’ve looked at so far are all priced about the same. I just don’t want to get done and wish I had replace those other items or be in the middle of the work and find out I need to.
Are there any other brake parts I should replace while I’m there even if they’re in good shape?
Also, the rotors looked to be in good shape, but, with this many miles, should I go ahead and change them as well?
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2014 MGM TEP - Dobinsons’ C59-300, Bilstien 5100 (front set to stock height), Cornfed 1/2 spacers in rear, Spidertrax, Airlift 1000
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04-17-2021, 02:00 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Clearwater Kansas
Posts: 1,313
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2012
Location: Clearwater Kansas
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I haven't changed mine yet, but there have been several threads over the years about aftermarket pads. Seems that the best results came from using OEM Toyota pads. I don't remember any comments about the clips. All rotors in my experience have a minimum thickness value stamped on them somewhere. The rotors are checked with a micrometer to see the actual value vs the minimum value stamped on the rotor. If there is a lot of material left, the rotors can be turned; if not, they need to be replaced. There are other things to look at too; like the condition of the calipers and boots, brake lines, any leaks, master cylinder, color of brake fluid (should be clear) brake parts torque values, etc.
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04-17-2021, 04:18 PM
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#3
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern NV
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I still haven’t replaced my pads yet but I’ve pulled the pins and the springs to inspect and clean.
My rotors are still looking very good and I prefer to keep them untouched since there’s no pulsating at all. This is my philosophy on brakes but I’m not recommending for anyone else. When I bought OEM pads I also bought OEM shims. I did buy aftermarket pins and springs but those can be quickly replace if I’m not satisfied.
Edit: I just did my 2015 RAV4 brakes. The pads wore down nice and evenly to about 2mm. The clips and hardware were really like new. Still had some original silicone grease on the back of the shims. I did not use the new stuff I bought. Just pads.
Here are my part numbers if anyone needs them.
Verify with a dealer.
Front Rotor 4351260191
Front Brake Pads 0446560320
Front Shim kit anti-squeal: 0494560090
Front Caliper Pins: 4773560300
Front Caliper Pin hold (Spring): 4774360280
Front Caliper Springs (fitting kit): 0494735050
Front Anti-Rattle Spring: 4774835010 (not needed if using fitting kit?)
Rear Rotor 4243160311
Rear Brake Pads 0446660140
Rear Shim Kit: 0494660141 / 0494660140
Rear Caliper Fitting kit: 0494722050
Do Not Use - these kits
Front Brake kit: 04465-AZ001-TM
Rear Brake kit: 04466-AZ004-TM
ACDelco Springs and Pins 18K2113X
ACDelco 18K822X rear clips
Carlson 13600 Front Brake Disc Hardware Kit
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2010 Trail - 135k mi - KDSS - Classic Silver Metallic - Bilstein 5100s - Tires: Michelin X-LT A/S 36psi - Oil: M1 EP 5W/30 - Diffs and T/C: Delvac 75W-90 Synthetic - Toyota WS ATF - ScanGauge - Viofo dashcam - Husky Weatherbeaters - Plasti Dip wheels and chrome delete - Wheel Center Caps delete - Roof Rack Cross Bars delete - Cargo Tray divider delete
Last edited by 1000MPH; 04-17-2021 at 04:23 PM.
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04-17-2021, 08:50 PM
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#4
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Join Date: Oct 2017
Location: Last Great Place
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The top of the line Raybestos pads are all I use. Never a problem and last longer than OEM Yota pads.
As for rotors, Raybestos or AC Delco Advanced Technology slotted.
Last edited by CutthroatSlam; 04-18-2021 at 09:48 AM.
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04-17-2021, 10:26 PM
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#5
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: TX
Posts: 298
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I would go ahead and install new rotors. I would anyway. Centric premium rotors with Akebono ProAct pads are my preferred brake combo. Not very expensive and work well. One nice thing about the ProAct pads is that they don't require a break in period.
When I had my FJ Cruiser I got all new OEM hardware to go along with the rotors and pads but honestly, the original hardware looked fine. I could've just cleaned them up and saved myself some money.
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04-17-2021, 10:41 PM
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#6
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: PA
Posts: 289
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Join Date: Jan 2015
Location: PA
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I've got a set of Power Stop Geomet rotors and Z36 pads in the garage waiting on me to be less lazy. I had the Z36 pads on my F150 and the stopping power was amazing.
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04-17-2021, 11:25 PM
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#7
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Join Date: Mar 2014
Location: Boise, ID
Posts: 189
Real Name: Shawn
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I have the Power Stop Z36 rotors/pads. Huge difference and would recommend them. Just not sure about how long they will last compared to OEM.
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2014 TE w/ KDSS: ToyTec BOSS Suspension Kit / Toytec 1" Body Lift / JBA A-Arm's / Cooper Evolution MT 35" 12.5" / SCS Ray 10 17 X 9 / Budbuilt Bump Out Slider's / Gobi Stealth (No Rise) Rack / Hefty Fabworks Front Bumper / Ellis Precision Auto Shifter & Transfer Case Shifter/ Rigid D-Series LED Fogs / Precision LED Interior Lighting
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04-18-2021, 08:40 AM
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#8
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Join Date: Mar 2019
Location: Nyc
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TRD pads or only Akebono ceramics with Brembo rotors perfection for at least 17 cars over the years
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04-18-2021, 09:02 AM
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#9
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Join Date: Nov 2018
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I used to always run Toyota pads. However in the last 10 years or so it seems the OEM pads are way too soft and give very poor initial bite. I've had good look in the last few years with both Brembo and the higher end raybestos replacement pads. I've had both on my 2011. Far better pedal feel and initial bite and when you really get into them they work better too. I'm currently running the raybestos rotors and pads with toyota shims on them. I have raybestos new calipers on the front as well. probably 20k on them and no complaints.
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Toyota 4x4 #17 - 2011 4Runner Trail Edition
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04-18-2021, 11:24 AM
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#10
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Salem, Oregon
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Real Name: BobH
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The OEM pads on our T4s appear to work very well, but the comments about Raybestos or Akebono look like something to consider.
Is there any benefit for our T4s to use slotted rotors?
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2013 Shoreline Blue Trail, n-Fab steps, Bilstein 5100's, Toyo AT2s, Scuba Mod, Air Lift 1000, Yaesu FTM-3200DR (KI7IKX), Husky Liners
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04-18-2021, 11:37 AM
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#11
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Join Date: May 2010
Location: Northern NV
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Toyota OEMs are made by Advics and Akebono.
The reason I went with OEM is I’ve seen enough posted on various forums of people mixing pads, shims, rotors with mixed results. My brakes have worked pretty well. I hated the pedal feel for the first two years! I was looking for other options, but I wasn’t completely convinced from posts similar to 85GT-79FJ40’s above to change them to aftermarket. Not their fault, I’m just stubborn and there were a lot of opinions and combinations.
After the first two years I finally got used to the OEM brakes and stopped thinking about upgrades. After the next 8 years I convinced myself to stick with OEM.
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2010 Trail - 135k mi - KDSS - Classic Silver Metallic - Bilstein 5100s - Tires: Michelin X-LT A/S 36psi - Oil: M1 EP 5W/30 - Diffs and T/C: Delvac 75W-90 Synthetic - Toyota WS ATF - ScanGauge - Viofo dashcam - Husky Weatherbeaters - Plasti Dip wheels and chrome delete - Wheel Center Caps delete - Roof Rack Cross Bars delete - Cargo Tray divider delete
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04-18-2021, 11:39 AM
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#12
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Join Date: Oct 2014
Location: Sportsman's Paradise
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Thanks for the input. Looks like I should just be concerned about the pads and rotors. I’ll do some more research to figure out what’s best for me. My main concern here were the smaller parts. I’ll measure my rotors to see where they’re at. If they’ve still got acceptable thickness, I likely won’t replace them.
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2014 MGM TEP - Dobinsons’ C59-300, Bilstien 5100 (front set to stock height), Cornfed 1/2 spacers in rear, Spidertrax, Airlift 1000
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04-18-2021, 11:48 AM
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#13
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: Ohio
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Yeah, if you got 93,000 miles out of the original pads, that speaks for itself.
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04-18-2021, 12:15 PM
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#14
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Join Date: Mar 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dynamo
I would go ahead and install new rotors. I would anyway. Centric premium rotors with Akebono ProAct pads are my preferred brake combo. Not very expensive and work well. One nice thing about the ProAct pads is that they don't require a break in period.
When I had my FJ Cruiser I got all new OEM hardware to go along with the rotors and pads but honestly, the original hardware looked fine. I could've just cleaned them up and saved myself some money.
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This. Exactly. I noticed a great improvement over OEM. No more of that "I'm not going to brake very much, still not going to brake very much, now I'm going to throw you through the windshield" thing that I had with the stock ones.
If you are in a salt state, you might not be able to get the slide pins out of the front calipers at that mileage when doing this, FYI. I ended up replacing both front calipers and good luck finding those without a 2-3 day wait. I called everywhere including the dealer and finally just mail ordered the raybestos coated ones, which still look brand new 2 years later.
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04-18-2021, 08:25 PM
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#15
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: San Jose
Posts: 600
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Join Date: Jul 2014
Location: San Jose
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Best setup:
Toyota OEM made in Japan rotor
Hawk HPS pads front and rear
Fresh brake fluid. Motul RBF600
I tried the EBC yellow stuff with OEM rotors. The yellow stuff was super aggressive on the rotor wear, pads wore fast. TONS of dust.
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