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Old 04-20-2021, 02:09 PM #1
Old3Tow Old3Tow is offline
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Question Talk me in/out of Spidertrax

Title pretty much says it all, and my sig line says the rest... just totally on the fence on this one.

Im a form follows function kinda guy and thinking goes something like this:

Since each tire is 1.2 narrower than stock, I probably have that much narrower of a wheelbase anyway. Consider then a full 3 of lift and Im starting to feel like widening the stance for safety/stability would be prudent. However, Im not dissatisfied with the appearance, nor the handling. If anything I like it and Im loath to give up a slightly narrower track and turning radius. Given the tire size, lift, UCAs, shrockworks bumper, rubbing aint gonna happenI got all kinds of room and dont exactly need more.

So what say the rest of you?
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Last edited by Old3Tow; 04-20-2021 at 04:23 PM. Reason: Punctuation/fat thumbs
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Old 04-20-2021, 02:25 PM #2
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I've had mine installed for 250 miles now. If you do some Google searching you'll find that pretty much anyone who has experience with them have been positive. Just make sure you installed them correctly. I've done my 2nd spacer lug nut check and nothing has loosened. I'm going to drive from Seattle to Moab, UT with this set up. Spacers or really low offset wheels will decrease wheel bearing life but I'm already at 90k so I plan to change out the bearings by 130-140k miles anyway, if needed.

1. Clean your wheel hub and lugs with brake cleaner and brush.
2. Apply a tiny amount of anti-seize to the mating surface of the spacer.
3. Apply a dab of red loctite on the threads of the supplied lug nuts. Hand tighten all six of them. Conical end of nuts goes in first.
4. Torque nuts to 90ft/lbs utilizing a star-pattern. I added witness marks with a yellow paint pen. Torque wheels nuts to factory specs.
5. After 50 miles you want to re-check that the spacer nuts haven't loosened. Set wrench to 85ft/lbs so you wont break the loctite. If anything moves, you needs to re-torque that nut with fresh loctite.
6. After another 100 miles re-check the spacer nuts.
7. Re-check nuts every 5,000 miles or every tire rotation.
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Last edited by Seattle206; 04-20-2021 at 02:29 PM.
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Old 04-20-2021, 02:37 PM #3
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My 2011 is configured similarly to yours. I'm running the 1.25" spidertrax with OME lift. I have factory size tires on it and trail wheels, and the closest point of approach leaves about an inch in the front. I also have mudflaps on. I'm planning to go up a size with my next tire purchase.

The stance is perfect with these on. The tires are even with the side of the truck, which avoids beating up the body and removes the tucked look of stock.



Quote:
Originally Posted by Old3Tow View Post
Title pretty much says it all, and my sig line says the rest... just totally on the fence on this one.

Im a form follows function kinda guy and thinking goes something like this:

Since each tire is 1.2 narrower than stock, I probably have that much narrower of a wheelbase anyway. Consider then a full 3 of lift and Im starting to feel like widening the stance for safety/stability would be prudent. However, Im not dissatisfied with the appearance, nor the handling. If anything I like it and Im loath to give up a slightly narrower track and turning radius. Given the tire size, lift, UCAs, shrockworks bumper, rubbing aint gonna happenI got all kinds of room and dont exactly need more.

So what say the rest of you?
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Old 04-20-2021, 02:41 PM #4
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Your safety is at the mercy of whoever is putting your wheels on and off. It seems like one more thing to potentially create a problem when you can just buy wheels with the correct backspace and not have to worry about it. I think there is some debatable mechanical stuff too like extra stress on wheel bearings.
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Old 04-20-2021, 03:01 PM #5
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Be sure to get the ET (extended thread) nuts for the spacers. Many replace the front studs with longer ones as well.
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Old 04-20-2021, 03:04 PM #6
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Lightbulb

Buy wider base wheels or ? Had them installed on 3 4r & a Venza all still on , properly installed & torqued no problems ! Now stress on wheel bearings different story , however no new bearings yet ! Imo going more than 2.5 is where problems arise
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Old 04-20-2021, 03:44 PM #7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by chester4Run View Post
.... The tires are even with the side of the truck, which avoids beating up the body.....
Okay, now that’s the kinda nugget that I’m fishing for. Even tho rock sliders are next on my list, that may be a practical reason for me to add them.
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Old 04-20-2021, 03:47 PM #8
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Like posted above, installation and maintenance is key. Obviously, proper wheels are preferred. If you don't need them, I wouldn't suggest them. If you do, don't buy ebay stuff. Get some with a good reputation for quality aluminum and proper studs. Remember the locktite and don't cheap out on that. Also do the anti-seize compound between the aluminum spacer and the brake rotor surface.

You will also have to go behind all mechanics who work on those areas if you install them. Some tire shops won't touch a vehicle with them.

I did everything on my old Jeep when I had them so it wasn't a big deal. I did however, have to carry my wheels to the shop on a trailer to get them balanced because they wouldn't mount them.
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Old 04-20-2021, 04:16 PM #9
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I go back and forth with this all the time. Ultimately, it will cause the tires to throw more rocks/mud/crap on the side of the car and it will kill your wheel bearings at a faster rate. Worst of all might be having to take them on/off any time you take the truck to a tire shop.
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Old 04-20-2021, 04:57 PM #10
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Spidertrax are the cheapest way to make your 4runner look much better, esp with OEM wheels. All the draw backs are worth it (cutting bumper) and making sure the nuts are not backing out.

You can also argue that it makes it bit harder to roll with wider wheel base... but they're mostly for looks, and it's worth it.
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Old 04-20-2021, 05:03 PM #11
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All the comments are spot on. I ran them on my 3rd gen for a few years without problems. installing properly and checking them regularly will make up for the risk.

I haven't researched a ton about spacers on 5th gens, but assuming there isn't much cutting involved, it's a preference thing.
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Old 04-20-2021, 05:32 PM #12
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I liked the stance I got from my 1.25” spacers. Installed them myself so had no safety concerns but would be nervous taking it to shop that doesn’t see them much.

Only dislike: they made the suspension “heavy”. You wouldn’t think they’d hardly make any difference but man, I felt every single ounce of them in the way the truck handled. Bumps hit harder, harsh ride, felt like I lost some power. I removed them in favor of a correctly offset wheel and it made a massive difference. Night and day. Call me crazy but even my passengers noticed a difference.

If you’re already loaded up with 800lbs of crap probably doesn’t matter. I keep my vehicle light.

Last edited by lunchboxtheman; 04-20-2021 at 05:34 PM. Reason: Typo
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Old 04-20-2021, 05:34 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle206 View Post
I've had mine installed for 250 miles now. If you do some Google searching you'll find that pretty much anyone who has experience with them have been positive. Just make sure you installed them correctly. I've done my 2nd spacer lug nut check and nothing has loosened. I'm going to drive from Seattle to Moab, UT with this set up. Spacers or really low offset wheels will decrease wheel bearing life but I'm already at 90k so I plan to change out the bearings by 130-140k miles anyway, if needed.

1. Clean your wheel hub and lugs with brake cleaner and brush.
2. Apply a tiny amount of anti-seize to the mating surface of the spacer.
3. Apply a dab of red loctite on the threads of the supplied lug nuts. Hand tighten all six of them. Conical end of nuts goes in first.
4. Torque nuts to 90ft/lbs utilizing a star-pattern. I added witness marks with a yellow paint pen. Torque wheels nuts to factory specs.
5. After 50 miles you want to re-check that the spacer nuts haven't loosened. Set wrench to 85ft/lbs so you wont break the loctite. If anything moves, you needs to re-torque that nut with fresh loctite.
6. After another 100 miles re-check the spacer nuts.
7. Re-check nuts every 5,000 miles or every tire rotation.
Great advice right there. Had them on my 4th gen forever. Loved them and had no issues.
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Old 04-20-2021, 07:44 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 91foxbody View Post
I go back and forth with this all the time. Ultimately, it will cause the tires to throw more rocks/mud/crap on the side of the car and it will kill your wheel bearings at a faster rate. Worst of all might be having to take them on/off any time you take the truck to a tire shop.
This crossed my mind too but given the significantly narrower tires, it may throw less on the side. And likewise for the wheel bearings, I think that’s kinda a wash too for less turning resistance. But truly, I dunno on that.
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Old 04-20-2021, 08:56 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old3Tow View Post
So what say the rest of you?
Personally, I would never install a device that is completely obstructed by the wheel at a connection as critical as the wheel hub. Although few and far between the horror stories are terrifying. Safety and piece of mind over everything IMO.

Also curious on your tire size which we dont see often. What is your measured OD on the 235/75/17s and how do you like them compared to other sizes you've run? Thanks
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