05-07-2021, 04:57 PM
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#16
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Join Date: May 2016
Location: Bay Area, CA
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My 2nd gen Tacoma parking brake has much more holding power. My 4Runner is so weak. The Tacoma does have a huge drum and regular brake shoes so that's probably why. The 4Runner has tiny parking shoes inside the rotor.
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05-08-2021, 06:26 AM
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#17
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jul 2020
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Update - had to basically argue with the dealer, but he sent it back to a technician who did find it needed to be adjusted. Now it seems to hold better, but still a little roll. The pedal used to go all the way to the floor with barely any effort. Now it goes 3/4 of that distance but I have to push hard. I guess it will have to do. Thanks much for the comments and feedback.
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05-08-2021, 12:41 PM
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#18
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2012
Location: Salem, Oregon
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Real Name: BobH
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Unretired
I always put the truck in neutral, set the parking brake, feel it hold, then put it in park so the stress isn't on the parking pawl. Months after the adjustments, my parking brake will still hold on 6-7 clicks nose uphill and 4-5 clicks nose downhill.
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I have been doing it this way for 8 years and it works fine. Have not needed to adjust in 67K miles.
The difficulty was getting my wife to do it this way.
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05-08-2021, 01:39 PM
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#19
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Join Date: Nov 2015
Location: SF bay area CA
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you need to adjust it properly.
Mine was never adjusted properly from the dealer (lazy mechanics) and I finally broke down and adjusted it correct and it works great now.
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05-08-2021, 11:05 PM
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#20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jmf_tracy
you need to adjust it properly.
Mine was never adjusted properly from the dealer (lazy mechanics) and I finally broke down and adjusted it correct and it works great now.
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Nope. They got it. I posted an update - all good. I just didn’t care for having to argue over it. Customer expresses concern. Just look into it. Don’t tell them some BS that non-functioning is how it’s supposed to be.
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05-08-2021, 11:46 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Jun 2016
Location: NYC
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2021 4Runner limited parking brake is terrible barely holds at full clicks on a small incline in the driveway.
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05-09-2021, 08:55 AM
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#22
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Join Date: Jan 2016
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How do you gain access to the star nut? In previous cars I have seen a rubber plug but on my 2016 I see a metal plug which appears to be permanent.
Do I have to remove the wheel, remove the rotor, make an adjustment and see if the rotor will still slide back over the drum pads?
Or do I somehow remove the metal plug? But it seemed pretty permanent when I poked at it.
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05-09-2021, 12:03 PM
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#23
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Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Charleston, SC
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gclark949
How do you gain access to the star nut? In previous cars I have seen a rubber plug but on my 2016 I see a metal plug which appears to be permanent.
Do I have to remove the wheel, remove the rotor, make an adjustment and see if the rotor will still slide back over the drum pads?
Or do I somehow remove the metal plug? But it seemed pretty permanent when I poked at it.
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There should be a hole in the rotor that lines up with the hole in your hub. If its not lined up, pull it off and line it up. You should then be able to adjust old school way with a flathead. What gets me that they should auto adjust on reverse. the only time I ever had to touch mine was when I replaced the rear rotors. I had to back the ebrake adjuster off to be able to pull the rotor.
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05-09-2021, 10:25 PM
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#24
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Join Date: Aug 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jivewalker
There should be a hole in the rotor that lines up with the hole in your hub. If its not lined up, pull it off and line it up. You should then be able to adjust old school way with a flathead. What gets me that they should auto adjust on reverse. the only time I ever had to touch mine was when I replaced the rear rotors. I had to back the ebrake adjuster off to be able to pull the rotor.
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Yes, once you remove your wheel you should have the e-break off and be able to spin the hub. You’ll see a hole in the hub, and just keep spinning it around until it lines up with the hole behind it in the rotor. Inside that hole you’ll be able to access the star nut with a flathead screwdriver. I can’t remember whether clockwise is tightening or loosening on this, but you’ll figure it out pretty quick. Just keep turning the star nut until the e-brake grabs the wheel and you can’t spin it any longer, then back it off a couple turns.
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2016 4Runner SR5 4x4. BFG A/T K02s (275/70/17 E Rated). 2-inch Icon rear springs. Bilstein 6112s front (1.2" setting), 5160s rear. RCI skid plates package + gas tank (3/8 in. steel), RCI rock sliders. Warn semi-hidden winch mount + Warn Zeon 10-S Platinum winch. Raingler cargo nets (roof and rear). TRD wheels. LFD rooftop crossbars.
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05-10-2021, 07:34 AM
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#25
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Join Date: Jul 2012
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Here is the hub/ebrake behind it. You should have holes like the two on mine. The holes in your rotor should line up. My rotor has a hole between each stud. If not, I'm confused.
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2012 Trail Edition |KDSS |BLACK| 265/70R17 C KO2's @ 44psi | 250,000+ miles |>Link To Inside Fishing Rod Holder Mod
2017 LAND CRUISER URJ200 | MGM | 285/60R18 | 62,000 miles
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Not like a flower.
But like a bomb.
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05-10-2021, 07:39 AM
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#26
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Not sure why pics wont post, lets try again.
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2012 Trail Edition |KDSS |BLACK| 265/70R17 C KO2's @ 44psi | 250,000+ miles |>Link To Inside Fishing Rod Holder Mod
2017 LAND CRUISER URJ200 | MGM | 285/60R18 | 62,000 miles
I am fragile.
Not like a flower.
But like a bomb.
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05-10-2021, 10:01 AM
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#27
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Join Date: Feb 2019
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Last edited by rightyouareken; 05-10-2021 at 10:07 AM.
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