05-11-2021, 10:15 AM
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#1
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Front suspension solution needed
Hey everyone,
I need a solution to my problem, and advice on what to try next. Since adding my winch, I have rubbing up front (passenger side) and my toytec boss 2.0 adjustable coilovers have seized, preventing me from adjusting them any higher. I experience the rubbing when backing up at full/almost full lock, and turning hard into a driveway with a bump.
My thought was first PB blast the heck out of them and see if I can get them to budge a second time OR try and put a .25-.5 top spacer on the coilover. Does anyone know if a spacer would work on my boss 2.0? I really want to avoid replacing the front suspension until I absolutely have to. I've got about 44k on these and, other than the sag, they have been pretty good.
I have a BMC and front bumper trim. I only need maybe .5" to clear the body mount. My tires are only 285/70's so I should be able to eliminate the rubbing.
Any help would be much appreciated.
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05-11-2021, 10:20 AM
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#2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4Jumper
Hey everyone,
I need a solution to my problem, and advice on what to try next. Since adding my winch, I have rubbing up front (passenger side) and my toytec boss 2.0 adjustable coilovers have seized, preventing me from adjusting them any higher. I experience the rubbing when backing up at full/almost full lock, and turning hard into a driveway with a bump.
My thought was first PB blast the heck out of them and see if I can get them to budge a second time OR try and put a .25-.5 top spacer on the coilover. Does anyone know if a spacer would work on my boss 2.0? I really want to avoid replacing the front suspension until I absolutely have to. I've got about 44k on these and, other than the sag, they have been pretty good.
I have a BMC and front bumper trim. I only need maybe .5" to clear the body mount. My tires are only 285/70's so I should be able to eliminate the rubbing.
Any help would be much appreciated.
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What's your caster set at? If you increase it maybe it would eliminate the rubbing. Wheel offset could also be a contributing factor.
When you say they are seized, I assume you mean there is more room to adjust upwards but the ring won't move?
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'13 TE w/ KDSS, 4:56 Gears, Dobinson's IMS C59-352/C59-701V, Sonoran Steel KDSS Trac Bar, Overland Custom Design Control Arms. Fuel Revolver 17x9 +1 mm 5" Backspace, Falken Wildpeak A/t3w 285/75r17, Hefty Fabworks Aluminum Front Bumper and Full Skids, C4 Fab Dual Swingout Rear Bumper, MetalTech OPOR Sliders, Northstar, Off-Grid Engineering, SPod, Blue Sea, Rigid, Baja Designs, KC HiLites, Stedi, Aplharex, National Luna, Drifta, Goose Gear, RAD Rubber Designs, Viair, Bandi Mount, URD, Gobi, ARB, Warn, Factor 55, Fourtreks, Axia Alloys, Desert Does It, Agency 6
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05-11-2021, 10:45 AM
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#3
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What are those front springs rates for? Maybe with the added weight of the bumper and winch you need to get heavier front coils.
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05-11-2021, 11:04 AM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comtn4x4
What's your caster set at? If you increase it maybe it would eliminate the rubbing. Wheel offset could also be a contributing factor.
When you say they are seized, I assume you mean there is more room to adjust upwards but the ring won't move?
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So the alignment shop never provided me a sheet of the alignment specs, so I have no clue. the alignment itself is perfect.
The offset of the new wheels is definitely a factor. They are the SCS 17x9 -38 offset Ray 10's. Such a beautiful wheel, but no doubt causing me this issue, hence why I just got a BMC. I have read many reviews and talked to people that run them and with a lift and BMC 285s fit without rubbing. I just think that since suspension has settled down so much, thats the main issue.
Yes, by seize I mean the adjustment ring on the bottom won't budge. At least the first time I tried it.
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05-11-2021, 11:05 AM
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#5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bassturd
What are those front springs rates for? Maybe with the added weight of the bumper and winch you need to get heavier front coils.
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the spring rate on the older boss 2.0 is 650
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05-11-2021, 11:37 AM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4Jumper
So the alignment shop never provided me a sheet of the alignment specs, so I have no clue. the alignment itself is perfect.
The offset of the new wheels is definitely a factor. They are the SCS 17x9 -38 offset Ray 10's. Such a beautiful wheel, but no doubt causing me this issue, hence why I just got a BMC. I have read many reviews and talked to people that run them and with a lift and BMC 285s fit without rubbing. I just think that since suspension has settled down so much, thats the main issue.
Yes, by seize I mean the adjustment ring on the bottom won't budge. At least the first time I tried it.
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I'd keep soaking it with PB blaster and see if it will come loose. Maybe find a pipe that will fit on the spanner. However, if you pre load the coils too much the ride will get harsh. (Ask me how I know.) You may need a stiffer coil.
Realistically though it will still rub if the tire gets through enough of it's up travel to hit the same spot. If you don't off road then it's probably not more than a nuisance. If you do, you may want to chop more or get different rims with a lower offset.
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'13 TE w/ KDSS, 4:56 Gears, Dobinson's IMS C59-352/C59-701V, Sonoran Steel KDSS Trac Bar, Overland Custom Design Control Arms. Fuel Revolver 17x9 +1 mm 5" Backspace, Falken Wildpeak A/t3w 285/75r17, Hefty Fabworks Aluminum Front Bumper and Full Skids, C4 Fab Dual Swingout Rear Bumper, MetalTech OPOR Sliders, Northstar, Off-Grid Engineering, SPod, Blue Sea, Rigid, Baja Designs, KC HiLites, Stedi, Aplharex, National Luna, Drifta, Goose Gear, RAD Rubber Designs, Viair, Bandi Mount, URD, Gobi, ARB, Warn, Factor 55, Fourtreks, Axia Alloys, Desert Does It, Agency 6
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05-11-2021, 02:31 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comtn4x4
I'd keep soaking it with PB blaster and see if it will come loose. Maybe find a pipe that will fit on the spanner. However, if you pre load the coils too much the ride will get harsh. (Ask me how I know.) You may need a stiffer coil.
Realistically though it will still rub if the tire gets through enough of it's up travel to hit the same spot. If you don't off road then it's probably not more than a nuisance. If you do, you may want to chop more or get different rims with a lower offset.
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Yea, since i do go offroad quite often I'll try soaking it and seeing if it will break loose. It's not terrible rubbing, but if I can fix it with some adjustment i will try. I only should need to turn it a few turns to get the height I need. I could also try and get another alignment that pushes the caster forward more.
Do they make small shim like spacers that work on these types of coilovers? that would be an easy solution i could deal with.
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05-11-2021, 03:24 PM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4Jumper
Yea, since i do go offroad quite often I'll try soaking it and seeing if it will break loose. It's not terrible rubbing, but if I can fix it with some adjustment i will try. I only should need to turn it a few turns to get the height I need. I could also try and get another alignment that pushes the caster forward more.
Do they make small shim like spacers that work on these types of coilovers? that would be an easy solution i could deal with.
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Have you adjusted your toytecs in the past? If you can post a picture of them we can see the model and style you're working with.
Im running toytec aluma 2.5s on my rig and have adjusted them a few times. As far as instructions go:
-Lubricate your threads above and below nuts and soak,
-Unweight the front end or at least the side of the truck the coilover you're working on
-Loosen the 5mm set screw just a few turns(I believe the older toytecs have a lock ring that needs to be backed off the main adjustment ring)
-Using the punch provided or a very similiar diameter hardened tool, insert into the ring holes and rotate. Try by hand at first and with a small cheater later if needed.
-Tighten set screw or return lock ring into place after adjustment.
-Driver around the block and measure to see the height change.
If they are alumas just be careful how hard your cranking on the tools with aluminum threads Im always paranoid.
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05-11-2021, 03:38 PM
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#9
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adding a spacer will work but its not ideal. like already mentioned youre only changing ride height so when it compresses off-road it'll still rub. you may need to run longer bolts if you add an aluminum spacer in between the coil bucket and the top of the coilover. a small spacer won't affect the ride much and if youre on aftermarket UCA's you SHOULD have available droop travel for the ball joints.
changing spring rates and reducing preload is prolly the best option
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2016 TE : Grocery Getter, 34/10.5R17 Toyo at3, Prinsu Rack, King Coilovers, DuroBumps, ToyTec HD 2.0 springs, King shocks, King hydro bumps, Total Chaos mounts, DirtKing Fabrication UCA, VIVID RACING Tune, URD Y pipe, RCI skids, Marlin Crawler gussets, DRKDSS everything
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05-11-2021, 05:21 PM
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#10
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Are you removing the strut off the truck before adjusting ?
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05-12-2021, 11:15 AM
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#11
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Join Date: May 2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by El Dusty
Have you adjusted your toytecs in the past? If you can post a picture of them we can see the model and style you're working with.
Im running toytec aluma 2.5s on my rig and have adjusted them a few times. As far as instructions go:
-Lubricate your threads above and below nuts and soak,
-Unweight the front end or at least the side of the truck the coilover you're working on
-Loosen the 5mm set screw just a few turns(I believe the older toytecs have a lock ring that needs to be backed off the main adjustment ring)
-Using the punch provided or a very similiar diameter hardened tool, insert into the ring holes and rotate. Try by hand at first and with a small cheater later if needed.
-Tighten set screw or return lock ring into place after adjustment.
-Driver around the block and measure to see the height change.
If they are alumas just be careful how hard your cranking on the tools with aluminum threads Im always paranoid.
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When I originally installed them I adjusted them slightly to compensate for a slight drivers side lean, but that was years ago. They are not alumas, they're the older model that adjusts from the bottom. I don't believe there is any locking ring or set screw at all from what i remember.
They look like this:
Quote:
Originally Posted by daytonaviolet
Are you removing the strut off the truck before adjusting ?
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No I'm keeping it on the vehicle. I just lifted the truck up to take tension off the suspension.
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05-12-2021, 11:26 AM
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#12
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Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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05-12-2021, 02:39 PM
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#13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4Jumper
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I believe you are correct those rings dont have allen set screw or lock rings which seems like a poor design. The other unfortunate part is how low the threads are on the shock body which puts them more at risk of rusting and seizing.
If you get it figured out without pulling the shocks off the truck let us know.
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05-12-2021, 02:44 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4Jumper
The offset of the new wheels is definitely a factor. They are the SCS 17x9 -38 offset Ray 10's. Such a beautiful wheel, but no doubt causing me this issue, hence why I just got a BMC.
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Yep, that's a pretty big contributor.
When adjusting are you taking off spring tension or just muscle the rings up?
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05-12-2021, 07:30 PM
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#15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by T4Jumper
When I originally installed them I adjusted them slightly to compensate for a slight drivers side lean, but that was years ago. They are not alumas, they're the older model that adjusts from the bottom. I don't believe there is any locking ring or set screw at all from what i remember.
They look like this:
No I'm keeping it on the vehicle. I just lifted the truck up to take tension off the suspension.
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On my truck, with wheels hanging, I couldn’t turn the sleeves to adjust the height. It was just easier to remove the entire strut, compress it and then hand turn the sleeves.
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