Well then, which brand to you propose I should use once these SPCs snap on me while making a right turn at 15mph?

Nothing....your SPC’s will last a lifetime! And, with their super stealth all black finish, you will be like a Ninja bro!

Goddamn, I hope that they do!!

Spray paint?

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Im sure amazon or ebay would have something you like in a color you like.

Back to the subject... at what point would you guys deem its not "safe" to drive with the cracking?

I've already noticed slight leakage from the greasing but no issues driving... I asked JBA and they just simply replied that its safe.


Does anyone have an exact date of delivery time? The Tacoma forums seems to be getting pushed out further and further.





side question: what do you guys do with all the excess lube? just wipe it off with a paper towel?

I have a pair of JBA UCAs on my 2016 5th gen 4Runner. I just recently lubed the bushings and the ball joints and notice that the ball joint boots were cracked. So I reached out to Marlin at JBA Off Road. I informed him of my situation and asked if this is covered under warranty. He replied back and said that they had a bad batch of boots and are no longer using that distributor. He sent me a warranty claim form to fill out. I also had to take some pictures of the boots. Anyways, long story short, JBA Off road took care of me. Just waiting for the boots to be sent to me.

I got my claim approved in May... and still no word.. their update keeps changing... did they send you your new ball joints?

Sent them 3 messages till someone responded I just don’t understand if you know you have a product problem why go through all the hoopla of pics videos forms when it’s supposed to covered under warranty anyway
I’m very disappointed in JBA

Finally got my boot..

I am having a HARD time getting the UCA off the steering knuckle

Since we are talking about JBA UCAs. I installed a set a few months ago. It says to grease the bushing with 1-3 pumps and the ball joint with 3-4 pumps at about every 3k-5k miles. I understand the bushings, but if the ball joint boot is sealed, or semi sealed, it seems it shouldn't need re-greasing as grease doesn't really disappear that fast?

Give the knuckle a couple good whacks down with a hammer and it'll come free easy.

Just a note for anyone replacing the boot, super simple: Remove the swaybar end-link from the steering knuckle, then jack up the LCA a bit before whacking on the flat plane on the steering knuckle with a hammer and the ball joint will come free easy.

I had a conversation with customer support about this. Only the top of the boot is sealed. The bottom is not; the idea being if you over-grease the extra has to escape from somewhere. Also, personal experience: if you do 3-4 pumps every oil change you’re going to experience overfill. I only use 1-2 pumps and that seems to be the sweet spot.

I installed jba UCA's on my 2004 4Runner - finally decided to set correct caster after over 15 years of driving with 4 deg off with no issues.
When I got the UCA's, I noticed that the boots are not tight on the bolts and there is an aluminum bushing between the knuckle and the boot. I called jab and asked about this unconventional "solution", and they assured me that everything was fine and as intended. I assumed that for that kind of money, they would do it right. WRONG!
In less than a year, the ball joints have failed (yes, I lubed living hell out of them every time I did an oil change) because the boot was loose, and water/sand got inside and ruined the joint. It was not an accident - it was a case of lousy design and/or implementation.
Needless to say, their warranty doesn't cover ball joints...
I was told that chevy silverado joints have the same configuration without jba's defect. As much as I hate putting anything chevy on my Toyota, I have no choice.
BUYER BE WARE!!!