Might want to add the ARB Base Rack to your comparison as well.

*edit: Completely missed the Base Rack specifications. Looks like the rack is only available in the 61" length.

Does anyone have experience with the RCI rack? They look to have included a solution for the leak problems and have a similar look to the Prinsu: Full Length Roof Rack |10-Present 4Runner – RCI Off Road

Pretty good price and options right now and they have me thinking!

I went with the westcott designs roof rack. Fit and finish are excellent and the lead time was only 2 months. Would have been sooner, but my ladder got held up in anodizing. I got the floor panel inserts for added versatility, But I haven't gotten a chance to put them in yet.

I have a early Prinsu rack, and drilled the holes and have not had any issues with it. I got the Westscott ladder and love it. Had I known about Westscott when I bought my rack, I would have bought theirs.

They’re in AZ and I like to buy local when possible.

I have a prinsu, don't like the parent company but love the rack.

Can't go wrong with any of the companies listed in this thread. All pretty much copies of each other, so pick the one that fits your aesthetic taste and budget.

I went with a Prinsu no drill. Install took about an hour.


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UPDATE:

I finally decided on the Prinsu and installed the full length rack. It is a very good quality rack and was easy to put together. It has been raining cats & dogs since before installing it and I have not yet used it for any particular purpose.

I was initially worried about not having applied the sealant properly but considering all the rain I would have known if there was a leak, right?

A problem I have yet to deal with is that when it gets cold the rack makes a slight vibration noise as I am driving. Also when I shut the door when it is cold I hear vibration. I have checked all the bolts/screws and they are tight. Any ideas?

Thanks

you have a loose bolt or eyebolt if there is vibration noise. easy way to figure out which one is loose, is hit each crossbar with rubber mallet, and then use your hand to feel the bars..you will feel the vibration and it stop when you touch it...then its a fastener on that particular crossbar that needs tightening. Its a good idea, to use the fake loctite they gave you in your install kit... it helps keep things snug and tight and noise free.

as for sealant, i just put a ton of it....in it and around it....6 years later no leaks...lol. You would know if you have a leak, your headliner will be darker in the area thats leaking.

Yup. Loose bolt. I had two Prinsu bolts where the cross rail was not tapped deep enough. The bolt feels tight but the flat washer can rattle. I tapped them deeper but you can double up on a washer if it doesn’t bother you.

I see what you mean: some of the bolts may be too long or the bolt holes may be slightly too short, creating a tight feel but a bit of space between the rack sides and the cross bar. Before posting this issue I had tried all the bolts and they are all tight, but this new thought not only makes sense but it is also worrisome because you can't just add an extra washer at one cross bar.

I should really take off all the cross bars, test to see if the bolts have long-enough holes, then reassemble them.

Someone above suggested tapping around to see if you can hear where it is. I’d do that first. Or just try to rotate all the flat washers with your hand. If you can spin it, it can rattle. If you find it, and you do indeed have a tap too short, I’d just add a second washer to that bolt only to fill in the gap. You should have plenty of thread engagement left.

I have done all that first time I began hearing a ringing sound when I closed the doors. This is how I know the bolts are tight: isolated which cross bar will go silent if I hold on to it, then check tightness of the bolt on that bar. Funny thing is that the colder it gets the more of these cross bars ring when I bang on the rack nearby them. When the weather gets warmer then all the ringing goes away. This is strange because even if the screws are too short or the hole too long, because of threading the thermal contraction should not be a factor.

How do you tap existing holes deeper especially if the holes are not deep enough already and you'd need to drill into it?

I have isolated the bars that will ring depending on how cold the weather is and the bolts were tight. When it gets a bit dryer out I will take the whole thing loosely apart while still on top of the vehicle and try it again. I will also check with the washers when tightened up to see if I can jiggle any of them.

Thanks

Finally got my RCI full length shipped and installed last weekend. It uses the same rubber block mount set up as the Sherpas (and I'm sure others) claiming no sealant/silicone/etc needed to keep it watertight. No issues so far but no real Florida storms to report just yet. Fit and included equipment was perfect, super easy install with a single 1/4" trim to the factory weather stripping on one side.

One question for anyone running the rubber mounting blocks, how tight is too tight on install? Seems to be no end to tightening the mounting bolts with the rubber block squeezing down and outward - I'm comfortable where I've got it but don't want to stress or break the rubber more than I need to over time.