Thanks for the reference. Jetboy always knows his stuff. Now, I only know enough about this system to be dangerous… If the system is open all the time, then what purpose do the valves on the controller serve when performing lift installs? Or is that essentially just combining a “recal” of the system at the same time of lift install?

Here’s why I’m asking. I’m installing my Dobinsons lift on Thursday (finally…) and I want it to be as loose as possible to see if I can get it in without actually disconnecting the sway bars. Many seem to accomplish this… I don’t want to open the valve bolts because my driveway is not level and I don’t want to open them there. Thanks.

I wouldn't be too worried about opening the valves in the driveway, so long as you close them before you drive off. Then go find a level place to open the valves back up and level it out as best as you can.

While the system is 'open/relaxed' at low speeds etc, the front and rear piston are still hydraulically connected. If you were to lift the front driver and rear passenger at the same time, then the system would be balanced, but if you lift both driver side tires, the system will develop anti-roll stiffness regardless of the valve positioning. So there are kind of multiple combinations of electronics and natural loads that allow KDSS to operate.

There have been many different ways of dealing with KDSS lift installs over the years.

This guy has a walk through install of his KDSS 4R and I don't think he uses opens the valves and it should be the same with your Dobinson setup.

Toyota 4Runner 2020 with KDSS Front Lift with Ironman4x4 suspension - YouTube
Toyota 4runner with KDSS Rear lift Explain - YouTube

I installed my Eibach 2.0 coilovers without opening the valves. I just used a Jack to compress it while I worked on the opposite side and vice versa. It really wasn’t that hard to do imo. Just have multiple jacks that go high enough and you’ll be fine.

That makes sense and kind of what I was thinking. Thanks.

Pretty much my plan. I’ve got a couple of jacks, lots of jack stands and some help. Thanks!

I ratchet-strapped the piston in place and unbolted the end links while the truck was on the ground, and then just did the lift like any other truck. After putting it back together, the passenger side sway link bolted up easy. I used a second ratchet strap on the driver's side to help pull it into place. It was cake. Had no issues at all.

I did NOT want to mess with the KDSS valves. Have maybe 1/4" difference hub to fender from left to right on the tape measure, but it's not noticable at all. Truck looks level to me.

This is a good video on dealing with KDSS while upgrading the suspension.
GX460 Icon Stage 2 lift and 285s - YouTube

The video implies it goes "limp" when the force of movement opposes the other, when the force of movement is equal its therefore stiff. Its not speed specific, its passive and fluid.

So sitting in your driveway there is no force of movement opposing the other so it would be stiff.

I don’t know about that. Lots of folks who did not open the valves talk about having to ratchet the piston up when sitting (drooping on jack stands I should say…). I will be exerting my own force on the opposite side to get it to drop more. I guess I’ll find out tomorrow… Thanks!

When you ratchet the piston up that is causing a force of movement that opposes the other so that would make it "limp". So that makes sense that people are doing that.

Good luck, you will definitely know for sure tomorrow.

first time i installed new shocks i opened the valves. Now i dont even bother. i dont notice a difference to be honest. Floor jack and alignment pin for the front. you can roll the floor jack while your jacking the piston up to line it up better, than use the pin to get it closer. its still a bit of a pain. The back end i found its easier to disconnect the clamp on the actual sway bar instead of disconnecting from the axle.

no lean here. 2.5" with kings up front. 1.5" with wheelers springs in the back.

Thanks!! Jetboy recommended using spring compressors on the rear and you don’t have to disconnect anything! I’ll see if I can do that… I’ll report back.

I’ve got all my parts, tools, help, beer… I’m ready to rock and roll! Nice long weekend!! Thanks Juneteenth and the state of Virginia. (I work for VDOT…)

actually those worked well for me swapping from t13 to the TOytec HD 2" springs. The toytecs required spring compressors. The wheelers fell out after taking everything apart lol

I just took my pre lift measurements. No lean on the back and only 1/8” low on passenger side of the front. (1/2 tank of gas) I don’t know if I should put the trim packers in or not. I know the more you lift the more it can make it lean… the front I can adjust with the coilovers, but not the back… You had no lean before or after?

correct. I believe once you hit the 3" front and 2-2.5" lift rear you run into lean issues. YMMV.....