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Old 06-09-2021, 03:21 PM #1
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Is it easy to install a dual battery Update last post

I am looking at adding a fridge, I have a winch and light bar that's getting installed and would like to put those on the 2nd battery also id it's smart. I saw one kit on here and people advised to not do it and I have no clue what's good and what's bad.
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Old 06-09-2021, 03:55 PM #2
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you talking about the genesis dual battery kit? i think the genesis solution is good. good because practically all the work is done for you. i can see some of the cons though - its a lot of weight for that area, dual group 25s is not optimal if you are looking for longest run time, cost is higher than a diy system. i dont think its a bad kit though if you are not a diy type person.
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Old 06-09-2021, 03:59 PM #3
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i have a portable one that i use for my fridge when i camp as seen here, Portable Dual Battery using REDARC DC-DC charger - YouTube

i like it really since i can use it too on my other older 4runner. works well for me.

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I am looking at adding a fridge, I have a winch and light bar that's getting installed and would like to put those on the 2nd battery also id it's smart. I saw one kit on here and people advised to not do it and I have no clue what's good and what's bad.
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Old 06-09-2021, 04:19 PM #4
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dollar for dollar, adding solar will give you more benefit when it comes to running the fridge

(a second battery is useful though if you are doing long winch pulls)
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Old 06-09-2021, 04:57 PM #5
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I have a group 34 agm battery in the 4runner for (winch/lights/etc) and a goal zero yeti for my fridge. A single AGM is plenty enough for my winching needs. The 4runner charges the goal zero when I'm driving which will keep it topped off. I find that the fridge can run off my goal zero for 3-4 days without driving (which is usually never the case) as long as my fridge is prechilled and only using power to maintain temps. If needed, I can always hook up a solar panel to the goal zero if I'm stationary for a couple of days at a time. I don't keep my fridge in the 4runner 100% of the time so this is a nice and portable setup for my use case.
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Old 06-09-2021, 05:52 PM #6
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The best location for 2nd battery weight distribution and support is the passenger side front where the fender well is reinforced.

I have a 2012 so this worked well for me, but the newer model 4Runners have to relocate the smog pump.

But this is the best location for the added weight when mounting inside the engine compartment.
There may be a kit available that helps reinforce the passenger side rear of the fender, but I don't have any input there. Maybe someone else has some info on that.

With just the standard 130 amp alternator, I like having the extra battery juice for winch pulls.

I also have an ml-acr which makes it easy for locking out or connecting both batteries, with an over draw protection for your primary battery.

I also have solar on board which helps supplement the secondary battery when running my fridge in camp.
I do recommend a MPPT charge controller as they are much more efficient. I bought a Victron Energy controller that has BT monitoring which is really handy. The old PWM controllers are getting out dated as far as I know.

As I got into more threads and learned about portable set ups such as the goal zero after I had installed my set up 6 years ago, I think that may have been a viable option for me and most people like the portables they use. So that should be definite consideration for you. It's a lot less work as well.

But, I also have a lot of lights and other crap that the 2nd battery helps with when out on the trails at night. I try to keep heavy loads off the alternator as much as possible.
There are dozens of options out there, so don't commit too quickly to a certain type of set up.

@Bumbo is the DC king on the forum who has a really cool set up for portable and solar, he may be able to help with some questions you have. He helped me quite a bit.
Good Luck!!
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Old 06-09-2021, 06:20 PM #7
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I would think the fridge would run almost non stop. I live near Mobile AL so it doesn't get cold here and I would think that would take up a lot of the battery juice. and AMG battery sounds nice until it wont start the car after sitting for 2 days in the heat running a fridge.
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Old 06-09-2021, 07:08 PM #8
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A dual battery is totally unnecessary for winching. I use my winch quite extensively because I like to try trails which I probably shouldn't be on and also do a lot of snow wheeling. On a given day I can have 10-15 continuous hard pulls and I've never run out of juice. The winch is always going off of my standard sized main battery.

I have a secondary battery + solar mounted in the passenger side OEM location to power my lights and fridge. If I could do it over again I would probably opt for a simple lithium battery recharged by the rear accessory power outlet. More than enough to run the fridge for extended periods of time and doesnt require all the custom power cables I had to build
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Old 06-09-2021, 07:40 PM #9
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This was my math. The main battery is fine for the small number of LEDs I have on my rack for camp light; a winch like a compressor will have the engine running, so it really came down to fridge.

And it was cheaper and easier just to buy a Lithium Iron (not ion) battery for the fridge and other random things I need to charge. When I'm heading on a trip I just put it in the back, strap it down, and plug it in. 30 seconds.

Throw in a solar blanket (the battery I bought had a built in charge controller) and I can go indefinitely.

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A dual battery is totally unnecessary for winching. I use my winch quite extensively because I like to try trails which I probably shouldn't be on and also do a lot of snow wheeling. On a given day I can have 10-15 continuous hard pulls and I've never run out of juice. The winch is always going off of my standard sized main battery.

I have a secondary battery + solar mounted in the passenger side OEM location to power my lights and fridge. If I could do it over again I would probably opt for a simple lithium battery recharged by the rear accessory power outlet. More than enough to run the fridge for extended periods of time and doesnt require all the custom power cables I had to build
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Old 06-09-2021, 07:58 PM #10
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I built mine externally and made it portable so that it could be used outside of the vehicle with solar charging to keep it topped up. Used a LiFePO4 from Battleborn, and a Milwaukee Packout tool box as you can get aluminum mounts for it which I have permanently installed in the back. The packout latches on and can be removed and carried. The only thing that lives externally to it is the DC-DC charger which is permanently mounted in the vehicle since I don't have a need to take the entire setup and use it on another vehicle. I like this much better than the second G-34 AGM under the hood because those kits can be quite expensive, and you a fairly small aux battery. I didn't use cheap components but the portability alone is worth it and I can just remove everything and store it when not in need.
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Old 06-09-2021, 10:41 PM #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bring_it_on View Post
I built mine externally and made it portable so that it could be used outside of the vehicle with solar charging to keep it topped up. Used a LiFePO4 from Battleborn, and a Milwaukee Packout tool box as you can get aluminum mounts for it which I have permanently installed in the back. The packout latches on and can be removed and carried. The only thing that lives externally to it is the DC-DC charger which is permanently mounted in the vehicle since I don't have a need to take the entire setup and use it on another vehicle. I like this much better than the second G-34 AGM under the hood because those kits can be quite expensive, and you a fairly small aux battery. I didn't use cheap components but the portability alone is worth it and I can just remove everything and store it when not in need.
That looks pretty slick! Any chance you have a parts list or more pictures?
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Old 06-10-2021, 08:01 AM #12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dedlewamp View Post
That looks pretty slick! Any chance you have a parts list or more pictures?
Yes sure. Some additional pictures o of the box and the mounting system.

The parts that I used:

1) Battleborn 50Ah LiFePO4 Battery
2) Renogy DC-DC (20A) Charger which lives outside of the vehicle (it has user selectable voltage which allows me to get exactly 14.6 into the BB)
3) Blue Sea 6 circuit fuse block
4) Blue Sea terminal fuse (40A)
5) Eaton 50A Circuit Breaker (panel)
6) Victron Smart Shunt 500A (Bluetooth only - no panel)
7) Victron MPPT (10A)
8) SB50 Anderson connections - Red for solar which plugs into MPPT (uses 10 AWG cables) and Gray (uses 8 AWG cables) that can accept the DC-DC charge or can be used for any other power need that requires higher current
9) Panel mounted Powerwerx PanelPole that accepts two Powerpole connections. I use one for my N. Luna fridge, and the other is permanently connected to my Noco Genius 10A
10) A Blue sea panel (USB and Cig port)
11) A Powerwerx supplied panel mount for USB type C
12) 10 AWG, 8AWG, and 12 AWG cables and connectors as required
13) Fuses sized for the application and wire size chosen - The BB has a 60A max continuous BMS and I also use a 40A terminal fuse. The DC-DC (20A) has a 30A fuse at its power source (a blue-sea panel that I have mounted in the tire-removal kit compartment)
14) I used ferrule connectors for all connections going in to / coming out of the MPPT and copper terminals for everything else

Everything with the exception of the Renogy DC-DC is mounted in the box. I had plans to mount a DC-Dc inside the box, and the box can actually accommodate a Victron DC-DC inside (a friend over at Expedition portal who worked with me to do a similar build went that route) but I chose to go with the cheaper Renogy option and mount it outside - It has worked great over the last 10 or so months. The red plate is what you can order for the Packout boxes (Milwaukee sells it in plastic but quite a few folks on IG or Facebook make these in aluminum or steel). I have mine mounted in the back on top of my drawer system. The battery is held together a few ways. I put Velcro at the bottom corners so that it adheres to the box. I then used brackets that you can see to hold it in place so that it doesn't move around. I also use a stra to secure it in place and between these three, it hasn't moved one bit in both day-day use in the back of the truck, or when off-road. The box latches shut, and it and the connection to the plate is strong enough that I have no problems storing stuff on top of and around it and securing it with a strap (the box is built very well and if anything is a bit of an overkill in terms of its size and strength).

I also have a 100 Watt solar panel hard mounted on the roof and a 60 watt portable blanket that I carry with me. When the aux battery is in the vehicle, I connect it to it and keep it topped up. When I don't need to provide it solar, I can remove the connection and connect the solar panels to my starter battery (Odyssey AGM). I have a cheap PWM Charge controller connected to the starter that lives in the back of my vehicle (and backfeeds through the fuse block mounted in the tire replacement kit storage area). The same PWM can also be swapped and connected to the aux battery (i have it with quick disconnect powerpole connectors) so that I can have two solar panels connected to the aux battery box. This way, I have redundancy since my fridge can be powered by both the aux or starter batteries and I can draw from each so have a backup incase I need to spend some extra time stationary and the 50 Ah LiFEPO4 isn't enough. With the solar panel, Last month we spent 2.5 days parked with the semi-full fridge set to 35F (2C) and still had about 35% SOC when we finally were on our way. And we were also using the battery box to charge our ipads and iphones on occasions so I have good confidence, that based on our need (mostly fridge and a few camp lights) we be out without much engine on time for about 3-5 days (between the aux and starter batteries) and be perfectly fine. With excellent solar we could just stay out there indefintly as between the two panels I can almost pump back in what I would consume in 24 hours or so.
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Old 06-10-2021, 09:54 AM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bring_it_on View Post
Yes sure. Some additional pictures o of the box and the mounting system.

The parts that I used:

1) Battleborn 50Ah LiFePO4 Battery
2) Renogy DC-DC (20A) Charger which lives outside of the vehicle (it has user selectable voltage which allows me to get exactly 14.6 into the BB)
3) Blue Sea 6 circuit fuse block
4) Blue Sea terminal fuse (40A)
5) Eaton 50A Circuit Breaker (panel)
6) Victron Smart Shunt 500A (Bluetooth only - no panel)
7) Victron MPPT (10A)
8) SB50 Anderson connections - Red for solar which plugs into MPPT (uses 10 AWG cables) and Gray (uses 8 AWG cables) that can accept the DC-DC charge or can be used for any other power need that requires higher current
9) Panel mounted Powerwerx PanelPole that accepts two Powerpole connections. I use one for my N. Luna fridge, and the other is permanently connected to my Noco Genius 10A
10) A Blue sea panel (USB and Cig port)
11) A Powerwerx supplied panel mount for USB type C
12) 10 AWG, 8AWG, and 12 AWG cables and connectors as required
13) Fuses sized for the application and wire size chosen - The BB has a 60A max continuous BMS and I also use a 40A terminal fuse. The DC-DC (20A) has a 30A fuse at its power source (a blue-sea panel that I have mounted in the tire-removal kit compartment)
14) I used ferrule connectors for all connections going in to / coming out of the MPPT and copper terminals for everything else
Very cool man, VERY cool.
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Old 06-10-2021, 10:25 AM #14
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I have an external dual battery setup. the dc-dc charger is on my box, including the battery. when camping, i can put it out of the car with my fridge in the shade and connect a solar panel to it to charge it. and when it's in the car, it's charged via the alternator. see my video here. Portable Dual Battery using REDARC DC-DC charger - YouTube



Quote:
Originally Posted by Signal View Post
I am looking at adding a fridge, I have a winch and light bar that's getting installed and would like to put those on the 2nd battery also id it's smart. I saw one kit on here and people advised to not do it and I have no clue what's good and what's bad.
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Old 06-10-2021, 10:29 AM #15
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I just want a large capacity AGM to run my LED's a bit longer and charge a few items. I was thinking of doing a duel battery but many have said i could get away with a good AGM. I just have nonidea what AGM to look for.
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