Copy that, never saw one, didn’t know how it was made….. thought maybe valves and rubberized plate was removable and them being sandwiched between metal parts.

To wrap this up, finally got Toyota's pricey Air Valve. It comes with the the 3 legged base that attaches to the engine, when you really just need the valve. They said it was a demand pull order item and required providing the VIN # for the vehicle before they would ship the part to the dealer. In the interim I bought a used valve on ebay for $80 shipped and that arrived earlier than expected, like 2 hours after I had installed the pricey new one from Toyota. So now I have a spare.

Drove the vehicle around at lunch stopping at multiple stores and filled it up with gas. No codes so far. Pretty confident this was the fix as anything electrical throws a code immediately. The mechanical fail was obviously a delayed, or infrequent code trigger.

So for the Toyota Tech Repair manual lengthy list of test procedure for DTC P2443, I would add shake the part and listen for any rattles :-)

Just thought about it, would that be covered under the emissions warranty ( is that the correct terminology)?

I think the emissions warranty is for 10 years or 150K miles. We're at 265K miles, so we've blown past that. Plus I take pride in being self-sufficient, so F the dealer.

Well we were still having intermittent P2443 codes after replacing the valve. Note that the manual says to check the wiring, I went back to do that. Pulled the plug from this Secondary Air Injection Valve and this time the outer wire on the right side (plug facing you) simply pulled out of the back of plug, similar to what happened on the sensor plug underneath this valve the last time I changed spark plugs. The wires are simply pressed into the back of the plug and it is often not a solid connection. Once a wire pulls out, they are near impossible to get back into the plug. This time I was able to jam the wire back into the plug, but there is no guarantee it will stay there. I cleared the code and so far it has not returned.

Last time I found a replacement plug for the sensor. I had to cut off the old plug and butt splice the new plug into the engine harness. I know that I posted about it here, so I need to find that post and see if it will lead me to a source for this connector plug to the Secondary Air Injection Valve.

At the outset I joked about Gracie and her small hands being ideal for the spark plug replacement job.....and I was not kidding.

Found the thread:

Cam Position Sensor Plug

In my unsuccessful search (so far) for a repair plug, I found this video showing how to repair an existing plug:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=u3HV4Ty9U5g&feature=youtu.be

And here's a Toyota-Tech on how to do it:

https://www.toyota-tech.eu/wire_harness_rm/RM06H0E.pdf

The question I have is where do I get the pins and tools to do this ^^^?

Here's a better video showing pin replacement on a Lexus terminal:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n43UIt06HQ4&feature=youtu.be

My issue is the wire end pulling out of the back of the pin, due to poor crimping.

Found a source for a replacement connector, but they are pricey:

Air Switching Valve Assembly

Hey Sam,

Take a look here and see if you can find your connector, pins and tool!

http://www.cycleterminal.com/ts-025-sealed-series.html

Thanks, they have one there for $4.05!

And you can call me Steve, not Sam.

ive done a lot of secondary air jobs on all the toyota trucks but i dont think ive ever seen that. make sure ur air pump filter is still there because that was due to water intrusion from the pump.

Oh, snap!
Sorry Steve!

Glad they had one, plus you will need the special pliers to make the crimp.
I made my connections when I had to extend my camera harness for my ctnewman rear tire carrier.
Used their connectors, pins and I bought the pliers from Amazon, methinks.

So it’s a two step crimping process. Can you describe which part goes where in the crimping tool. Back end of the female terminal is for the insulation portion of the wire. Where does that go in the crimping tool. Similarly for the wire portion of the terminal.

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Here is a video that will help….

How to Crimp a Terminal - YouTube

Tried twice crimping terminal to tahe existing wire from the harness. Inserted it in the plug, but could not get the locking cross piece inserted. Not certain I had the new terminal fully inserted, resulting in it impeding the locking bar. Ruined two locking bars and have just one left. Not enough wire left on the harness to maneuver. So I sent my wife (her truck) to get 20 awg wire. I will crimp a terminal to a pig tail of wire and inserting it into the plug, then butt splice it to the harness.

They are tricky sometimes, have to make sure it is oriented correctly so it will insert all the way in.
Make a new tail harness and waterproof butt splice into current harness. Leave plenty of slack, wire loom it for protection.

Ok I crimped a pigtail of wire to a terminal and pushed it into the existing plug. Once again, could not get the locking clip in. The terminals have two barns atop the female end portion that also lock it in, or you at least need a tool to release them. So there is some redundancy and it is being held there. I plugged it back on and no code, but the real test will be after the next cold start-up.

Wish I could figure out the damn locking clip. They come out easy.

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I wish I could help you with the locking clip , never delt with that one.
Only suggest looking at some videos….

Traded e-mails with the owner of cycleterminal.com. That white plastic locking clip is supposed to slide to the outside, but remain in the plug. Then you put the wire terminals in and slide the locking clip back in place. So it's really a just a shift, not a full removal. As the locking clips got ruined in my dumb shit move, I ordered a couple more plugs to make a final, permanent repair.

Currently the plug is in place without the locking clip. The terminals do have two barbs which also hold them in the plug. Wife was driving it around yesterday and today and so far no codes. Pretty certain the problem is resolved, but I want a more permanent solution on the plug with the lock clip in place.