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Old 08-02-2021, 07:53 PM #16
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Originally Posted by Tuco S. View Post
Thanks for sharing. Can't say I'm surprised by your results, which is why I went all steel on mine. I'm certainly no expert on material properties of metals, but I did have a class in college where we studied steel, aluminum, and some other metals like brass just to compare for ductility and strength, and whatnot.

To me the weight savings that aluminum offers is irrelevant. Depending on which fabricator you go with, the difference in equivalent weight is anywhere from 5 to 18 gallons of fuel. Try this some time, drive around when your truck is at 1/4 tank and pay attention to how it handles, and how it accelerates, and then go fill up the tank and see if you can notice any difference from before and after. I tried it a few times before I ordered skids, and couldn't tell any difference.

I can understand going with aluminum if you're trying to shed every pound and loading up near the maximum gvwr, but otherwise it's just an inferior material to steel for this particular application.

Apologies in advance to anyone who may get butthurt by my comment. Just my opinion.
I agree. I pondered aluminum skids and made all the weight calculations and in the end I figured an extra 60 pounds for the steel skids isn't going to make much of a difference. Also, the weight is underneath and below the roll center. I went with the C4 skids like yours and they are currently getting powder coated and I will install them in a couple of weeks. I was able to get a new C4 diff skid with the e-locker guard from a forum member for $235 including shipping. I understand why other owners in the rustbelt and very wet climates may choose aluminum, but in southern California it's not needed.
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Old 08-02-2021, 10:27 PM #17
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Nice review of the skids.

I fish the Eastern Sierra a lot but I haven’t been up there yet. I hear the lakes up there are only holding small fish. How would you rate the trail compared to Laurel Lakes?
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Old 08-03-2021, 12:04 AM #18
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Yikes that's some damage from a "easy" trail. Do you intentionally try and utilized the skids or is that unavoidable ? I'd be worried about your rear diff, shock mounts, gas tank, exhaust components.
Coyote Flat was rated a moderate trail back in 2014 by Charlie Wells. It may well be difficult by now.

OP, it is important to use standardized ratings. It is irrelevant how you or I feel about trail X or Z. It is practically impossible to get that kind of damage from an easy rated trail.

@Forgetful , I suggest the latest edition of Wells for AZ. It is very recent. They redrive all trails for every new edition.

The Massey books are mostly useless now as the most recent are 15 years old or so (don't look at the print days cause there have been reprints).

For UT and CO, TrailDamage offers the best info among online sources. For AZ Jeep The USA is great but skewed towards Rubicons. Everything north of 3 is seriously rough.

Here is my review of skids: Skids and sliders review: 3 years later

My front 3/16 RCI skid has far worse damage thanks to hitting a rock at good speed but it still works just fine! The front pax side is completely caved in.
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Old 08-03-2021, 12:38 AM #19
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Originally Posted by fishman View Post
Nice review of the skids.

I fish the Eastern Sierra a lot but I haven’t been up there yet. I hear the lakes up there are only holding small fish. How would you rate the trail compared to Laurel Lakes?

Never been to Laurel. I would say that of your going for the fishing…. Don’t. Funnel seemed to be the only lake with easy access and it has basically no fish worth taking from our experience.


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Old 08-03-2021, 12:46 AM #20
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Laurel Lake was rated moderate in 2014. I wanted to drive it in my Outback in 2015 but did not have time for it.

The Charlie Wells guides divide the difficult trails in such ok for stock SUVs with experienced drivers and such for hardcore rigs. A mildly modded 4R can do several of the latter as well, maybe in company of another rig or two, but some of those for hardcore rigs are truly hardcore and not suitable for a daily driver. They are usually well marked as such.

We drive the normal difficult trails solo.
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Old 08-03-2021, 09:39 AM #21
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I have a 2019 4Runner which is lifted, beadlocks and has steel skids. I beat the hell out of it (broke my steering rack twice, broke my rear axle shock mount, broke a control arm... and so on). Point is to say I beat on it. It's currently getting the RCLT kit installed. I have steel skids on it and have yet to seriously dent or bend them.

I just purchased a 2021 4Runner for my wife. It's being built as a light overlander as we have 2 kids and don't all fit in one vehicle with gear. She will be going on trips with me that are more overlanding (not hard trails). So I decided to get RCI aluminum skids to save weight and make it a better commuter. I can tell you that they are much lighter than my steel.

This past weekend my friends decided to go to Coyote Flats. My Toyota is in the shop and I didn't start on my wife's yet. On Thursday I threw on the aluminum skids and rock rails that I had waiting for install and took my wife's 4Runner on the trail with stock suspension and tires.

If you haven't been to Coyote Flats (to Funnel lake and the campgrounds around Baker Creek)... it's not a difficult trail. On 33's with a lift anyone can make it. If your stock... your fine too but you will get some rock rash underneath. I honestly was easy on the rig, took my time (which is rare for me), and made sure to be as light as possible using the skids... but I used them as they are intended to be used.

Came back home with cracked welds and a bunch of dents in the skids. They did their job but probably won't be able to handle another trail without repairs. RCI did a fantastic job with the skids... not their fault at all. It's my fault.

I always used steel skids. However, after reading a ton of comments on the forums I got convinced that aluminum was good enough for this build. Now I know that aluminum is only good enough for a pavement princess that goes out on easy dirt trails with small ruts once in a while. Definitely don't let your aluminum touch a rock.

Just figured I'd share a real world review...
I think we have similar driving styles and love for technical trails. I too have broken two steering racks, blown shocks, dented up everything underneath my chassis and have decent panel damage from all the fun I drag my poor truck through. Not sure how you did all that damage at Coyote Flats though it's a pretty mild trail from what I remember? My bottom looked similar after doing Slickrock about a month ago though.

Either way I ran those exact aluminum skids for almost five years and don't consider my truck to be a pavement princess since it is a dedicated offroad setup. I never had a problem. Do they hold up as well as the steel version? Probably not but to me saving 80 lbs vs. steel was worth it for my GVWR+ setup. None of the skids ever failed or allowed anything to hit what was behind them. Skids get beat up regardless of material, take them off and pound them out.

Now if you want to talk about using aluminum for a winch bumper and that being a bad idea I could get onboard.
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Old 08-03-2021, 09:44 AM #22
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Quote:
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Nice review of the skids.

I fish the Eastern Sierra a lot but I haven’t been up there yet. I hear the lakes up there are only holding small fish. How would you rate the trail compared to Laurel Lakes?
Ive been to both, Laurel Lakes is easier.
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Old 08-03-2021, 09:53 AM #23
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Well, the properties of steel and aluminum are very different. They both have their advantages. Steel will be flexible and take shocks whereas aluminum is very rigid and brittle. That's why you had the cracks.


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Old 08-03-2021, 10:28 AM #24
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I have a similar experience with the aluminum skids, though I'm a far more gentle wheeler, even according to my friends I wheel with.

My RCI engine skid broke welds in the exact same spot as OP. my transfer case skid welds are also busted. I ended up replacing the alum engine skid with a steel one (also from RCI) and it's been fine, though I've not hit that exact welded corner yet.

I'm in CO, so there are a lot of big rocks here and whether you can get away with alum or not depends entirely on you and where you wheel. I was not disappointed with RCI, though, far from it. When I called to order to steel replacement, they helped me out. I'm OK running the remainder skids in alum with the engine being steel. For what I do, it should be fine.
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Old 08-03-2021, 12:28 PM #25
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Originally Posted by TRD PANTHER View Post
I agree. I pondered aluminum skids and made all the weight calculations and in the end I figured an extra 60 pounds for the steel skids isn't going to make much of a difference. Also, the weight is underneath and below the roll center. I went with the C4 skids like yours and they are currently getting powder coated and I will install them in a couple of weeks. I was able to get a new C4 diff skid with the e-locker guard from a forum member for $235 including shipping. I understand why other owners in the rustbelt and very wet climates may choose aluminum, but in southern California it's not needed.
That's an excellent point! If you're looking to shave weight, it's best to start at the top (roof rack) at the highest point above the center of mass, and then start working your way down from there.
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Old 08-03-2021, 12:42 PM #26
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My RCI front steel skid is slightly cracked where the OP's is, along that weld. Its seen some big rocks. My weld on sliders are even bent up enough the rear doors rub hard when they close.

My steel skids are pretty much trashed, but have done their job. Been looking into creating some from AR plate for a couple years now.
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Old 08-04-2021, 05:35 PM #27
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MAST4R View Post
Laurel Lake was rated moderate in 2014. I wanted to drive it in my Outback in 2015 but did not have time for it.

The Charlie Wells guides divide the difficult trails in such ok for stock SUVs with experienced drivers and such for hardcore rigs. A mildly modded 4R can do several of the latter as well, maybe in company of another rig or two, but some of those for hardcore rigs are truly hardcore and not suitable for a daily driver. They are usually well marked as such.

We drive the normal difficult trails solo.
At this point these trails change so much from season to season we generally use these guides as reference and do more detailed research for the current conditions.

For instance, Coyote Flats has 2 trails leading to the lakes, one way more difficult than from Bishop like I mentioned previously but no one ever mentions which way they took.

Laurel Lakes on the otherhand had the trail collapse and was undrivable from light rain just about 2 weeks ago, I don't even know what the current conditions are now.

Eitherway, do you due diligence and if in doubt, don't go alone
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Old 08-05-2021, 05:29 AM #28
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Went with TRD aluminum skid and used it hard on the dunes (no rocks here). Used it properly from day one and it did its job.

Yes it's dented, yes welds are cracked on the side like OP's 1st post, but 4 years later it's still doing its job minus the weight penalty of something beefier.

In fact, I'd most likely still go aluminum when I mod the heavy 200 one day as IMO they work just fine for everything until you're closer into hardcore rock bashing where steel skids can shine.
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Old 08-05-2021, 09:47 AM #29
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Went with TRD aluminum skid and used it hard on the dunes (no rocks here). Used it properly from day one and it did its job.

Yes it's dented, yes welds are cracked on the side like OP's 1st post, but 4 years later it's still doing its job minus the weight penalty of something beefier.

In fact, I'd most likely still go aluminum when I mod the heavy 200 one day as IMO they work just fine for everything until you're closer into hardcore rock bashing where steel skids can shine.
This. I drag my truck through rocks that I think most on here would probably not voluntarily go through. I replaced my RCI alu skids eventually because of their terrible mounting solution (frame nuts). However, when it came time to find new ones (CBI) I still went aluminum and its been holding up to the abuse just fine.
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