I did just behind the speakers in mine and noticed a difference in the sound quality of the stereo. I have installed lots of it in old muscle cars for customers and a lot of them are blown away at the difference. For my Mustang I am using lizard skin. But it's a bare shell of a car. Zero interior, no drivetrain, not even a single wire or brake/fuel line currently. Definitely not anything I would think about using in my 4Runner but the stuff is amazing.

It's not hard to do, just time consuming. I showed my wife how to do a door, and she took off doing the entire car. My job was to take apart, and put back panels. All the panels went back without any issues. I only covered the outside skin. Did not do the inside layer. That's the only time you could run into minor issues with panels going back on. If you do the inside layer just cut around any holes where the snaps go in, and I recommend storing any bolts, or screws for the panels where they came out of so you can make sure you don't cover those holes up. Good luck!

BTW i was just pricing out online the Dynamat Extreme ($10+/s.f.) vs the 1lb MLV ($1.40/s.f.).

Wow big price difference. . .

So to clarify then, on the doors you were sticking the sound proofing to the sheet metal of the door, right ?

I bought 36 sqft of Noico 80 mil on Amazon for $60 and it says it weighs 27 lbs. It was enough material to do the 4 doors and trunk hatch. I did not do the floorboards but I may eventually. I installed when I replaced my speakers and it was a little time consuming but very simple install. It does help with road noise. Only issue it caused (combined with speaker weight) is too much weight for the rear hatch lift struts. You will need to replace them with heavier duty struts or it won’t hold open all the way.

Correct. Only covered the outter skin

I put in a call to second skin, no answer (during business hours), left a message with my phone number, haven't heard back.

They sell a kit for SUVs that has two different products, I guess for parts of it you would use a dampener then a layer of MLV over that.

?

I got through to Second Skin just now.

Eric suggested that labor should be 16 hours. Usual rates are in the range of $20-40/hr, however in California it may be more in the range of $50-60/hr.

Doing the math for California, that would put the install job at ~$800-1,000.

Their "SUV kit" is $1100+ and includes dampening layer material and sound blocking MLV. I don't think it includes the ceiling though.

So maybe a couple of thousand bucks.

I considered Tijuana, but aren't always reliable and can take a long time.

Thinking about going out to where all the junkyards, there are guys there that can drop in an engine, fix up salvage title vehicles, etc. Hoping I can find somebody over there to do it cheap, though I don't have time just now to go out there, maybe some time in the next few months.

I'm getting a little excited about it ! ! !

I used Stinger Roadkill. Bought 3 cases off of Amazon for about $100 each. Was able to completely cover the truck (4 doors, floor, roof, hatch, and hatch door) with a sheet, or so left over. I did the gas door just for fun, but now the gas door shuts like a Lexus door. Hahaha

Amazon.com: Stinger RKX36B Roadkill Expert Series Sound Damping Material Bulk Pack (Silver) : Automotive

It really isn't hard to do yourself, just time consuming. It took my wife and I about a day. Hardest part would be figuring out how things come apart, which isn't that hard honestly. Start with the roof, then the floor. The pillar panels all have to come off to remove the headliner and carpet. The doors are the easiest, and can take your time doing them since you can easily do them one at a time

BTW when I talked to Eric at Second Skin, he said the wheel wells should be covered as well. Did you do that at the same time you took off the pillars and did the floor ?

There's a bit more to this than I might have thought, appreciate the input.

I could probably do it and it would be fun but I think it would take a long time doing it by myself, I guess that is still an option. I'm thinking a pro can make sure everything goes back in place properly without any loose panels, any broken clips replaced, everything comes back looking perfectly stock. . .

Yes, did the rear wheel well, too. Pretty much tried to cover as much as I could

I talked to the guy who did my paint protection film, he got back to me and said that for one of pals to do it would run around $3800.

He said you have to take out the center console, I think he also said the dash (?), I presume that is to get the carpet out and then put back.

Also something about needing to unhook whatever various electrical wires run around those areas, and needing to know in what order to unplug them or something like that (?)

Not sure if any of that was exaggerated but that is a lot of money for something I don't really need that badly. Then again I am still going to see if I can get it done for less down in Otay Mesa where all the junkyards are . . .