I am just curious what the performance limitations are on the bilstein 5100's and how to determine if upgrading would be helpful?

My use is mainly washboard roads, fire roads 40-60mph and some crawling(nothing crazy but enough to warrant 4L). I would say that typically I may do 2-8 hrs of straight highway driving and then 1-2 hrs of this type of offroading.

Would this type of heat load be too much for 5100's?
I have 2883 fronts, preloaded up one notch in front(due to extra weight) and 2895e springs in the rear. Looking at upgrading to 2886 front springs with no preload once I add a bumper/winch.

Should I just stick with my plan to upgrade springs, or would I gain anything by upgrading to 2.5 adjustable resi shocks?

I like that 5100's are maintenance free and cheap enough to throw out and replace, but if I would see much more difference and benefit to upgrading, I am considering it.

Airing down the tires to 15 psi or even 18 will help tremendously.The bilstein 5100 will fade pretty fast. Even a long travel suspension with progressive shocks and external reservoirs will fade after two hours of driving on washboards but can be rebuilt. Sealed 5100's are one and done shocks but some say they can be rebuilt.

I think you're fine. 6112's would work too without having to go up to "performance" type of shocks that require more upkeep. I absolutely loved my 6112's for 4 years and i bought them used.

if you start blowing out 5100's every few months or after specific trips, then yea look into upgrading

This is an area where most shock absorber companies are absolutely horrible with their communication. How do the shocks actually function in the real world

Wether it's the damping factor velocity vs load (digressive/progressiveness of the shock), or how long it takes to get the shock to fade.

Foam Cell Pro Testing - Ironman 4x4 - NZ
Looking at the 'dyno conclusion' and results, they tested by setting a given oscillation rate (.6 m/s) and seeing how long it takes for the shock body to heat up (from 90 to 120 C, 194 to 248 F) without forced cooling. Most shock oils are probably good to 275 F or higher depending upon pressure of the system (which changes with temperature) and the quality of oil, but this at least gives us a comparison.

Why none of these companies want you to know the comparative results of their shocks is beyond me. They should all be crawling over one another to show how theirs fits a specific market/price point better than their competitors.

I was looking at the 6112s for a while but I didn't like Bilstein's options for the rear. Either sticking with 5100s or 5160s with external reservoirs which weren't for me or going higher up the line.

Bottom line is that bigger = more thermal mass so it will take longer to heat up and more surface area to dissipate heat and cool down more rapidly. I think 5100s will provide a similar to stock fade resistance but with the ability to adjust your ride height with the clips, but that's just my uneducated guess.

The last trip I took was to New Mexico. 8 hrs on the highway at 80-85, then 1 hour of high speed dirt road driving, then 1 hr crawling up a mountain. Weather was about 90-99 daily.

I did not think about measuring any temps but in the later half of these drives things did feel a bit softer. I am just curious if a 5100 is up to the task without issue. I have been considering an upgrade since I will be increasing weight and would need to buy new springs anyway.

My only other concern is how fox or king 2.5's would handle winter. I do try and keep things clean and wash with a pressure washer 1-2 times per month. The 5100's have been on since 2018 and still dont have a spot of rust.

I do have a fair bit of weight. Dual Batteries, roof rack, fridge, and sometimes a smittybilt XL tent if the wife comes along. Planning to also add a front bumper and winch soon. Looking at warn hybrid or aluminum cbi/heftyfab

You'll be just fine.

Long time ago, my old buddy with a prerunner found their limit along a miles long whoop road in Gordon's Well and it exploded with boiling hot oil everywhere.

I ripped the bottom of the shaft that holds the valve stack retainer nut off on the front of my F150's. Caused the front to droop until the UCA hit the spring since the shock no longer stopped the down travel. Lasted 6 years and thousands of hard off road miles at speed. Replaced with another 5100.

Overall very impressed with what they've been through and still work.

Over 50,000 miles on my 5100s and they’ve been great. I’m shopping Fox 2.5s or Kings now, only because I want a significant upgrade, not necessarily because the 5100s have failed. Bang for buck, nothing comes close.

exactly what I was thinking.. I was looking at upgrading more so to avoid catastrophic failure at a time it could leave me stranded far out. But if I am nowhere close to the limits of a 5100 maybe I should not worry.

i was thinking about it because I was not sure if the 2886 OME spring upgrade would be too much for a 5100 since I plan to add some weight up front. with the 2883 springs and 5100's up 1 notch I am hitting the front bump stops often. Not that I can really feel it but I can clearly see the prints on the LCA from contact. I am using upgraded Energy Suspension bumps in front.

I was also looking at Fox 2.5 w/ DSC and 700lb front springs.

If you liked the way the 5100's felt as a Daily Driver, ICON will be similar.

If you are looking for more of a Cadillac ride, then FOX, KING and Radflo work great.

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This is the best simple answer. 5100s are a premium monotube shock that is great for 98% of users that want higher performance, 4 wheel occasionally, and don't want to spend a fortune. I've had them on multiple vehicles in the past and enjoyed them. Don't expect too much of them or think you'll go race Baja. They do have their limitations and are priced as such.

The difference in a premium resi, bigger shock, etc. will be noticeable, especially in the hard stuff. Big need/want scenario here.

This is great info for someone like me that was wondering if not going 6112 was a bad choice. Seeing as I don’t wheel the thing only use it on the beach, gravel/dirt and 80% hard I feel like 5100’s will be just fine. I bough the battle born off-road deal with all four 5100 shocks, and OME rear springs for less than 600. Do I need UCA’s? What front springs?

I’m coming from the limited XREAS setup


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I've had 5100s on my truck for 70k miles. Maybe 5% of that has been bombing down washboard FS roads in the PNW. They still work great. The only real downside I've noticed is that the digressive valving of the 5100s plus the extra stiff KDSS sway bar can make those washboards a bit jarring. Airing down helps this a ton tho. And so does a KDSS switch.

My buddy's shit the bed at 120k miles, and that is with light offroading once a month (forest road, camping, etc), thats pretty dang good.

Thanks for the info! was it a catastrophic failure? or just leaking? I can deal with driving home with oil leaking, but I saw some pictures on t4r, tacomaworld and tundratalk with the shaft broken or folded in half etc. I just don't want the 2886 OME springs to be too much for the 5100 to handle since I believe they are 660lb springs to hold the extra weight.

I think I will end up just changing to 2886 front springs. i really hate the idea of shock rebuilds and like the idea of being able to throw away and replace easily.

I also like how resilient the bilsteins have been for me through winters and would worry about rust on shock bodies/resis and uniballs. I do plan to add UCA's though to help alignment with the additional lift.

I currently have 2883 fronts with 5100s on 1st notch due to added weight and 2895e rears.