10-07-2021, 01:55 AM
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#1
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Member
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Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: California
Posts: 76
Real Name: M
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Member
Join Date: Aug 2018
Location: California
Posts: 76
Real Name: M
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Icon Delta Joint UCA Removal
Has anyone here removed Icon Delta Joint UCA from the spindle?
It seems to be some form of taper bolt that goes into the spindle.
I've tried hitting the spindle with a hammer, hitting the bottom with a hammer, tried using one of those tie rod pullers you borrow from OReilly's but no success.
I'm trying to remove my front coilovers so I can replace with heavier rate springs but I can't get the UCA to separate from the spindle.
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10-07-2021, 05:00 PM
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#2
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,226
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Senior Member
Join Date: Dec 2015
Location: Bay Area, CA
Posts: 1,226
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Quote:
Originally Posted by assassin
Has anyone here removed Icon Delta Joint UCA from the spindle?
It seems to be some form of taper bolt that goes into the spindle.
I've tried hitting the spindle with a hammer, hitting the bottom with a hammer, tried using one of those tie rod pullers you borrow from OReilly's but no success.
I'm trying to remove my front coilovers so I can replace with heavier rate springs but I can't get the UCA to separate from the spindle.
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I was struggling with this the other day. Typically you can just shock them out of the knuckle by striking the knuckle itself. However, I gave up and used a ball joint separator tool
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Xtremluck's 2012 SR5 Build Thread
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10-07-2021, 05:04 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: phoenix
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Senior Member
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smack the spindle with a hand sledge. just like removing a tie rod
it's not a icon specific bolt, its tapered on all UCA's cause theyre all going into the same spindle design.
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2016 TE : Grocery Getter, 34/10.5R17 Toyo at3, Prinsu Rack, King Coilovers, DuroBumps, ToyTec HD 2.0 springs, King shocks, King hydro bumps, Total Chaos mounts, DirtKing Fabrication UCA, VIVID RACING Tune, URD Y pipe, RCI skids, Marlin Crawler gussets, DRKDSS everything
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10-07-2021, 06:52 PM
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#4
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Elite Member
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Join Date: Dec 2014
Location: Utah
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Elite Member
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Location: Utah
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You need two hammers. Ideally two 2.5lb sledges. But a 2 or 2.5lb sledge and a second decent hammer will do. One on the back side held firm against the spindle directly behind where you're going to hit and the other used to give it a good whack a few times. Should pop out in just a few hits. I've done it at least a dozen times on mine. I've tried out 4 different UCA sets over the years if you count the OEM ones. Never had an issue with any of them with this method. The second hammer really helps.
Good luck!
For reference:
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10-08-2021, 09:25 AM
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#5
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: phoenix
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Senior Member
Join Date: Feb 2016
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jetboy
You need two hammers. Ideally two 2.5lb sledges. But a 2 or 2.5lb sledge and a second decent hammer will do. One on the back side held firm against the spindle directly behind where you're going to hit and the other used to give it a good whack a few times. Should pop out in just a few hits. I've done it at least a dozen times on mine. I've tried out 4 different UCA sets over the years if you count the OEM ones. Never had an issue with any of them with this method. The second hammer really helps.
Good luck!
For reference:
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its pretty much the only way that doesnt F up the ball joint, or the threads.
also if youre on stock uppers leave the nut loosely threaded on so they dont swing up and smack you ;) prolly is the best way to show how bad stock bushings bind.
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2016 TE : Grocery Getter, 34/10.5R17 Toyo at3, Prinsu Rack, King Coilovers, DuroBumps, ToyTec HD 2.0 springs, King shocks, King hydro bumps, Total Chaos mounts, DirtKing Fabrication UCA, VIVID RACING Tune, URD Y pipe, RCI skids, Marlin Crawler gussets, DRKDSS everything
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