12-23-2021, 08:39 PM
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#31
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Virginia
Posts: 43
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Virginia
Posts: 43
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Thanks. I’m really pleased with the ride. Just hope I can get rid of the rub. I’m guessing I can, but if not, it looks like I have a little wiggle room in the caster.
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2021 Nightshade, 2x FT750-35 Batteries, Redarc BCDC1225D, Redarc SBI12, NOCO Gen5x2, Solar and AC Inputs at Cowl Seals, ARB Zero 63Qt, Rago Molle Panels and Shelf, Rago Factory Rail Support System, Icarus eXtreme Red/White Hatch Lights, Bilstein 5100, OME 2884/2895E, Skyjacker SBE702, Dobinsons SE59-525K, TOYO AT3 275/60R20... and a bunch of other electrical outlets and buttons.
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12-24-2021, 01:56 AM
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#32
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Houston and STL
Posts: 301
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Join Date: Sep 2003
Location: Houston and STL
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So after all that would you say you stick with your current setup or if you had to do it all over with the knowledge you have now to replace xreas, what other complete system would you go with?
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1996 Limited - OME 881/906 w/comfort shox | Deckplate | Hayden 1678 | 265/75R16 Revos | Koyo A1998 bypassed | Husky liners | Optima R34 Red Top | '99 Cupholders | Rear diff breather mod | (Totaled)
2012 Limited - Husky liners | OPOR sliders | 30% Ceramic Huper Optik | AVS seamless | Odyssey 34R-1500T
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12-24-2021, 06:59 AM
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#33
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Virginia
Posts: 43
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Virginia
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That’s a tough question. XREAS at stock height certainly felt like the best ride. I read/saw that several people really like the Revtek 3/2 system and I figured it was cheap enough to do. That said, I did not like it and ended up ripping out every piece of that system one by one and replacing pretty much the entire suspension $100-$150/wheel at a time. It probably would have been wiser to go with a complete suspension upgrade kit as the cost difference wouldn’t have been that much in the end… and I likely would have justified getting slightly better quality equipment for a little bit more.
I’m an electrician, not a mechanic, but as far as I can tell, playing with the suspension involves a LOT of trial and error to find the right ride for the specific driver. Electrical work is definitely more predictable. I’m sure I’ll keep making changes over the next few years, but after tearing apart the suspension 3 times, I (and especially my wife) am just happy to wrap this up for a while.
If I were to do it again, I probably would have stuck with 275/55’s and a 2/1 or 1.5/1 lift. I don’t off-road (yet), but I wanted a little more clearance since I do work on some rough jobsites and we do a lot of camping, some pretty backcountry. And I did a bit of damage to my last truck when I built my house… mostly due to lower clearance (and me not walking around the vehicle before jumping in and taking off). Hopefully the front camera and higher clearance will help there.
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2021 Nightshade, 2x FT750-35 Batteries, Redarc BCDC1225D, Redarc SBI12, NOCO Gen5x2, Solar and AC Inputs at Cowl Seals, ARB Zero 63Qt, Rago Molle Panels and Shelf, Rago Factory Rail Support System, Icarus eXtreme Red/White Hatch Lights, Bilstein 5100, OME 2884/2895E, Skyjacker SBE702, Dobinsons SE59-525K, TOYO AT3 275/60R20... and a bunch of other electrical outlets and buttons.
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12-25-2021, 02:51 PM
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#34
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Member
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Virginia
Posts: 43
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Location: Virginia
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Another update… addressed the mud flap rub, but found another serious rub. While pulling into my garage, with my steering wheel turned almost full lock to the left, my passenger tire rubs the sway bar and is danger close to the UCA. It doesn’t happen all the time, but in a specific spot in my usual approach to the garage. At that spot, the passenger side is a little lower than the driver side. So, while in full lock and in contact with the sway bar, I put it in park, got under the truck and removed the sway bar relocation kit. While in that same spot, I was then able to slide a sheet of paper between tire and sway bar, but the credit card was a little tough.
While still parked, I happened to notice with the steering full lock to the left, my left wheel was extreme positive camber, which I read is normal when turning with higher caster. I’m wondering if the higher caster is also causing my right wheel to go negative camber enough to touch the sway bar and possibly the UCA.
I am at 4.48 left and 4.65 right caster, with SPC UCA’s.
I’m having a tough time finding alignment specs for the 2021 Limited, but the alignment report showed my caster within range (2.47-4.75 left, 2.67-4.96 right).
Anyone have any idea if my caster values are too high and if so, can this be causing my sway bar rub?
Any help is greatly appreciated.
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2021 Nightshade, 2x FT750-35 Batteries, Redarc BCDC1225D, Redarc SBI12, NOCO Gen5x2, Solar and AC Inputs at Cowl Seals, ARB Zero 63Qt, Rago Molle Panels and Shelf, Rago Factory Rail Support System, Icarus eXtreme Red/White Hatch Lights, Bilstein 5100, OME 2884/2895E, Skyjacker SBE702, Dobinsons SE59-525K, TOYO AT3 275/60R20... and a bunch of other electrical outlets and buttons.
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12-25-2021, 03:14 PM
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#35
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Indiana
Age: 43
Posts: 23
Real Name: Tyler
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Indiana
Age: 43
Posts: 23
Real Name: Tyler
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You'll want to get a wheel spacer or new rims to push the tires out away from that UCA
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12-25-2021, 03:19 PM
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#36
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Virginia
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Join Date: Apr 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsfarling
You'll want to get a wheel spacer or new rims to push the tires out away from that UCA
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I wasn’t rubbing the sway bar at all before I had the SPC UCA’s on. That’s why I’m wondering if the significantly higher caster is causing more dramatic camber at full lock. It appears the shop set the SPC’s to +3 caster and didn’t really try to get any caster adjustment out of the lowers.
I am so close to the body mount as it is, I’m concerned that with spacers I’ll definitely be rubbing there. I’d like to evaluate other possibilities first… especially since this wasn’t happening with stock UCA’s.
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2021 Nightshade, 2x FT750-35 Batteries, Redarc BCDC1225D, Redarc SBI12, NOCO Gen5x2, Solar and AC Inputs at Cowl Seals, ARB Zero 63Qt, Rago Molle Panels and Shelf, Rago Factory Rail Support System, Icarus eXtreme Red/White Hatch Lights, Bilstein 5100, OME 2884/2895E, Skyjacker SBE702, Dobinsons SE59-525K, TOYO AT3 275/60R20... and a bunch of other electrical outlets and buttons.
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12-25-2021, 03:23 PM
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#37
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Junior Member
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Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Indiana
Age: 43
Posts: 23
Real Name: Tyler
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Junior Member
Join Date: Jan 2020
Location: Indiana
Age: 43
Posts: 23
Real Name: Tyler
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Oh okay, gotcha. Yeah, I would take it back to the shop and let them know its rubbing. Should be a lot of room to move around with aftermarket UCAs
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12-25-2021, 03:31 PM
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#38
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Join Date: Apr 2021
Location: Virginia
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Join Date: Apr 2021
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tsfarling
Oh okay, gotcha. Yeah, I would take it back to the shop and let them know its rubbing. Should be a lot of room to move around with aftermarket UCAs
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That’s my plan, but I am hoping someone can chime in on my theory/question that the much higher caster (1.8 on stock, 4.65 on SPC’s) is causing significant enough camber on turns to rub. Would be good to have some ideas/suggestions before going back in.
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2021 Nightshade, 2x FT750-35 Batteries, Redarc BCDC1225D, Redarc SBI12, NOCO Gen5x2, Solar and AC Inputs at Cowl Seals, ARB Zero 63Qt, Rago Molle Panels and Shelf, Rago Factory Rail Support System, Icarus eXtreme Red/White Hatch Lights, Bilstein 5100, OME 2884/2895E, Skyjacker SBE702, Dobinsons SE59-525K, TOYO AT3 275/60R20... and a bunch of other electrical outlets and buttons.
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