01-05-2022, 12:09 PM
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#1
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OEM metal oil canister
Getting my oil changed for my ‘21 TRDOR, asked the Toyota parts person for part number a 15620-31060 which is a metal oil canister that I have seen referenced in numerous posts for a retro-fit from plastic to metal. Parts rep stated that this part number did not fit the 21 4Runner. Is this housing not an approved part for the 4.0? Really don’t feel like voiding my warranty.
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01-05-2022, 12:15 PM
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#2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltsatch
Getting my oil changed for my ‘21 TRDOR, asked the Toyota parts person for part number a 15620-31060 which is a metal oil canister that I have seen referenced in numerous posts for a retro-fit from plastic to metal. Parts rep stated that this part number did not fit the 21 4Runner. Is this housing not an approved part for the 4.0? Really don’t feel like voiding my warranty.
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Nothing has changed with the setup that I know of, but why switch from the OEM plastic version? What issues with the plastic version merit changing to the metal option?
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01-05-2022, 12:18 PM
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#3
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Senior Member
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It's the same thing and you will not void your warranty. Order it online from a dealer.
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01-05-2022, 12:20 PM
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#4
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The parts guy can only go by what he looks up and sees on his computer.
He has never compared any specs.
Had one put on by my tech at the Toyota dealership on my 2014 and had this one put on my 2021 @ 5000 mile oil change by same tech.
Prior to purchasing I asked if this would void any warranty he stated no, it is the same but just aluminum. Remember to put your OEM perforated long tube in it.
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Last edited by Saker; 01-05-2022 at 12:22 PM.
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01-05-2022, 12:22 PM
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#5
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It is technically not for the 4runner. The canister itself is identical design (sans material), but you have to switch the spring tube over from your plastic part. If you aren't doing oil changes yourself, I wouldn't mess with it. If you are doing oil changes yourself and will be the first person to touch it (meaning the dealer hasn't already performed a prior oil change), you could just use the plastic canister and not be a gorilla like the lube techs who over torque it and not need the metal canister...
Magnusson-Moss warranty act prevents any warranty issues if you install it correctly.
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01-05-2022, 12:23 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dezertbomber
Nothing has changed with the setup that I know of, but why switch from the OEM plastic version? What issues with the plastic version merit changing to the metal option?
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The tabs on the plastic housing are prone to breaking off.
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01-05-2022, 12:29 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmnorm2
It is technically not for the 4runner. The canister itself is identical design (sans material), but you have to switch the spring tube over from your plastic part. If you aren't doing oil changes yourself, I wouldn't mess with it. If you are doing oil changes yourself and will be the first person to touch it (meaning the dealer hasn't already performed a prior oil change), you could just use the plastic canister and not be a gorilla like the lube techs who over torque it and not need the metal canister...
Magnusson-Moss warranty act prevents any warranty issues if you install it correctly.
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I am still doing the free oil changes at Toyota and thought I would have them install while here for an oil change. I will be using non oem techs after last by free change and would rather have the stronger part. Guess I will wait. Don’t change my own oil.
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01-05-2022, 12:43 PM
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#8
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Yeah, it's technically marked for the Corolla and Camry, given why you have to change the oil feed tube in the middle. That's why the parts computer won't show it, since it's not technically an OEM part for the 4Runner, the 4Runner's part number is the plastic housing. It is the right part, mine works perfectly
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01-05-2022, 01:03 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ltsatch
The tabs on the plastic housing are prone to breaking off.
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When overtightening or not using the correct filter tool most likely, unless it brittles over time.
My 2010 with 165K still has its OEM plastic housing.
For tightening, there's a metal clip on the plastic housing that slips over a tab and makes a click sound once it goes past it. Isn't this an indicator that it is tight enough? Otherwise, what's its purpose since it's not strong enough to prevent reverse rotation?
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01-06-2022, 01:25 AM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dezertbomber
When overtightening or not using the correct filter tool most likely, unless it brittles over time.
My 2010 with 165K still has its OEM plastic housing.
For tightening, there's a metal clip on the plastic housing that slips over a tab and makes a click sound once it goes past it. Isn't this an indicator that it is tight enough? Otherwise, what's its purpose since it's not strong enough to prevent reverse rotation?
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That metal clip on the plastic oil filter housing is kind of useless. There are torque specs for it that are more reliable: 18 ft-lbs for the housing, 9 ft-lbs for the oil filter drain plug.
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01-06-2022, 12:49 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ElectroBoy
That metal clip on the plastic oil filter housing is kind of useless. There are torque specs for it that are more reliable: 18 ft-lbs for the housing, 9 ft-lbs for the oil filter drain plug.
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I realize that, and typically stick to proper torque specs and tightening procedures...but it's an oil filter so not rocket science.
AND again what's the point of that clip then? Toyota put it on for grins and giggles?
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01-06-2022, 01:16 PM
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#13
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I just installed one last weekend when I changed my oil. Will see how it works out.
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01-06-2022, 04:59 PM
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#14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dezertbomber
When overtightening or not using the correct filter tool most likely, unless it brittles over time.
My 2010 with 165K still has its OEM plastic housing.
For tightening, there's a metal clip on the plastic housing that slips over a tab and makes a click sound once it goes past it. Isn't this an indicator that it is tight enough? Otherwise, what's its purpose since it's not strong enough to prevent reverse rotation?
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Good point, What is that metal clip for ?
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