ABS, Tire Pressure, Brake, Traction, and 4LO lights on.
no CEL codes.
AC and Power Windows not working
Cant shift out of Park ( unless i use override).

I checked the ECU fuses but look okay.

I did drive it and i have powersteering and braking feels fine.

everything i've read on the forums lead to fuse and/or wheel sensor.
I dont think any rodents got to my wires.

Anyone face a similar problem?

****** what i did*****
I think I solved it after reading everything and anything on this forum.

the only accessory switch plugged into the kick panel fuse box are my switchpro, anytime backup camera + kdss on/off switch.

I ruled out the switchpro since i've had it installed for a few years now.
I uninstalled the kdss on/off switch.
I re-checked all my connecting wires to my anytime backup camera wires behind the headunit.

swapped out 2 10amp fuses for ECU-IGN no1 + no2.

No more dash lights and i can shift out of park.

I went back to run an errand and christmas lights all over again. smdh
ECU-IGN No1 + no2 fuse blown again.
I uninstalled the anytime backup camera (im going to miss my front camera )
replaced ECU-IGN fuses and everything is back to normal. ran my errands and no christmas lights.

***QUESTION***
Maybe i was drunk when I installed this but - the tap fuse for the anytime backup camera, I had a 10amp and a 5amp in there. not sure why.
(i've had this camera installed and used frequently for well over a couple years now. no problem)
Does anyone think that when I flipped on the front camera/back camera it drew to much power to the switch but because i had 15amp fuse it blew out the ECU-IGN amps instead?

Or can anyone direct me to a website where I can read about how currents flow thru the kick panel fusebox?

If your rig is an early 5th gen I’d take it to a mechanic and get it diagnosed. You might stop at an auto parts chain store for a free diagnostic first to get an idea what it might be and where to look.

Your situation sounds very similar to what I experienced some years ago with my ‘12 Subaru Outback. On a hot summer day 150 miles from home on an isolated road I was cruising along when the cruise control kicked off and I found my instrument panel lit up like a Christmas tree. My car ran and idled fine. The cruise control wouldn’t work. I drove back to the town I live in, bought the least expensive OBDII reader that could reset the CHECK ENGINE light. Loose gas cap.

Researching, I found that vehicle manufacturers realize that most owners ignore the check engine light. So they started disabling creature comforts so that owners run to dealers, who charge them $$$ to twist the gas cap and reset the light.

That being said, you could also have something more seriously wrong with your rig. There’s lots of recent threads dealing with this, though I don’t recall one staing the inability to shift the truck out of park.

You'll have to get the abs codes using a tech stream or a obd-II and the motor data app with the 4runner add on which is $10.00

I didnt have any error codes - i checked with my scan gauge.
I did check the gas cap as i've heard similar stories about that.
did find my ecu-ign fuses were blown.

i took it to toyota. they did check via techstream but they said something about the brain ecu not receiving data or power and it'll be starting $1500 to check all the wires and stuff.
i said no thank you and did my research on this forum.

I found a thread about a member here having christmas lights after installing his anytime backup and his ecu-ign fuse was blown and no shifting capabilities.
hence i double checked all my wires and checked to make sure the front and rear cameras were working. i think that blew the fuse again. so this time i uninstalled it I wrote about the tap fuse in my initial thread.

electrical prblems is so nerve racking.

Not being able to shift and various lights share similarities with a bad transmission selector switch mentioned in a few previous threads. This is also called the neutral safety switch and is externally mounted on the right side of the transmission. Problems result from corrosion inside the switch that is not sealed well for some reason. You can check out the threads - some have pics of the switch and info on how to replace, by a search on transmission selector switch and or problems shifting.