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Old 01-16-2022, 06:36 PM #1
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Crazy situation????????

So my wife's 2015 4Runner Trail Edition had a dead battery the other day (Date on Battery is 2/2018 (Toyota Factory Battery). So i go out to jump it (Just figuring my son or I didn't shut the door all the way or we a left a light on...do big deal right?) I jump the Runner from my Taco and dive it around a bit. Let it sit for an hour and go back out to try starting it, and it starts like a charm. Fast forward a day or two (Letting it sit without driving it) and I go to start it and its dead. @#%$#%^#$@%@ , so I go to VIP and have them look up what I need, and end up springing for the top of the line AGM battery. Drop it in and go to start the runner and notice its hard to start, but after about 6 seconds it turns over and starts. I think to myself "hmmm that was weird" and proceed to drive the Runner around for 30 minutes. then shut the vehicle off and wait five minutes, and it starts up no problem. I go to bed, wake up this am...go to start it and its dead. Jump it again but this time notice that when driving it around if i depress on the brakes moderately hard my headlights and radio flicker, cut out, then come back on. The engine never stalls out though. Repeat this test multiple times and the headlights and radio are definitely cutting out while braking. I try a nice SLOW brake and the radio and headlights are fine. drive around for 30 mins, pull into my house and turn the runner off, wait 5 seconds and try to start it. I get NOTHING, no lights or radio with the key clicked over just once, won't even click when trying to start it. like the battery is completely dead....

what does the T4R.ORG hive mind think is going on? I did a few google searches which lead me to some sort of Vacuum seal thing?

Any help would be very much obliged !!

Thanks in advance!
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Old 01-16-2022, 07:24 PM #2
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First thought would be a bad alternator and a new battery that had been sitting and wasn't fully charged so slow cranking. Second thought would be a loose or corroded connection. If alternator test good and starting is hard on a fully charged battery that might indicate indicate a fault on battery side of cables but would still make sense to check alternator connections, engine grounds and all that
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Old 01-16-2022, 07:26 PM #3
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I think....(best of my recollection, so look further into this) is that the 4runner alternator does not put out enough volts to properly charge an agm....there is some some simple mod you can do to up the voltage of the regulator....and then you will be gtg.
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Old 01-16-2022, 07:28 PM #4
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Thanks for the response. I made sure that there wasn't any corrosion on the + and - terminals as well as confirmed they were on snug. I will double check that again tomorrow. I will also have the place that sold me the battery test the alternator. any thing else it could be?
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Old 01-16-2022, 07:29 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewdog998 View Post
I think....(best of my recollection, so look further into this) is that the 4runner alternator does not put out enough volts to properly charge an agm....there is some some simple mod you can do to up the voltage of the regulator....and then you will be gtg.
intersting, as VIPs/Oriely auto part's computer specifically spit out his Battery as one that would work. any more info on the MOD?
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Old 01-16-2022, 07:41 PM #6
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I would check both ends of both battery ables to see they are tight and not corroded. Also check all connections to the alternator. The best way to check the charging system is to do so with the engine running and increasing the load on the system. There are testers for this that most shops have.
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Old 01-16-2022, 07:47 PM #7
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I would check both ends of both battery ables to see they are tight and not corroded. Also check all connections to the alternator. The best way to check the charging system is to do so with the engine running and increasing the load on the system. There are testers for this that most shops have.
Thanks Im familiar with where the Battery cables meet the battery at the battery terminal, where do they go from there and what do they connect to?
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Old 01-16-2022, 08:34 PM #8
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Thanks Im familiar with where the Battery cables meet the battery at the battery terminal, where do they go from there and what do they connect to?
Alternator, starter, chassis ground, and engine ground I think. Best to just trace them, been a while since I have
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Old 01-16-2022, 11:19 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbtvt View Post
First thought would be a bad alternator and a new battery that had been sitting and wasn't fully charged so slow cranking. Second thought would be a loose or corroded connection. If alternator test good and starting is hard on a fully charged battery that might indicate indicate a fault on battery side of cables but would still make sense to check alternator connections, engine grounds and all that
Exactly what this guy said. Check the voltage with a voltmeter. Solid chance it’s not fully charged. I charged up the AGM I just purchased, before swapping out the OEM battery.
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Old 01-17-2022, 02:58 PM #10
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put in an OEM battery and make sure it's charged. the lights dimming when slowing down is a tell tale sign of a failing alternator

if the OEM battery works fine, it's the AGM, if not it's likely the alternator. unless you were messing with some wiring as opposed to simply swapping batteries I think it's the AGM battery or alternator

I've read a few posts about AGM batteries dying out without being trickle charged
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Old 01-17-2022, 03:49 PM #11
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intersting, as VIPs/Oriely auto part's computer specifically spit out his Battery as one that would work. any more info on the MOD?
Check this out....did not read whole thread, and it also references other threads.
Raising the Alternator's voltage to properly feed your AGM Battery!


ALSO...what are the specs on your new AGM...brand model etc?
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Old 01-17-2022, 06:43 PM #12
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Guys thanks so much for all the help. Took the Runner to VIP/O'Reilys tonight. Battery tested "Bad Battery" Alternator also tested "Bad Voltage regulator" Guy there told me that since the alternator had a "bad voltage regulator code" it probably fried a cell in the new AGM battery, makes sense but still doesn't explain why when installing the new AGM it took about 6 seconds for the runner to turn over and actually start. Doesn't taking dropping a fresh battery in take the alternator out of the equation, until you actually start driving?

they quoted me $225 for the alternator and $446 installed. they said they would replace the battery under warranty, even if it was my bad alternator that fried it.

thoughts?
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Old 01-17-2022, 07:05 PM #13
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Quote:
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Guys thanks so much for all the help. Took the Runner to VIP/O'Reilys tonight. Battery tested "Bad Battery" Alternator also tested "Bad Voltage regulator" Guy there told me that since the alternator had a "bad voltage regulator code" it probably fried a cell in the new AGM battery, makes sense but still doesn't explain why when installing the new AGM it took about 6 seconds for the runner to turn over and actually start. Doesn't taking dropping a fresh battery in take the alternator out of the equation, until you actually start driving?

they quoted me $225 for the alternator and $446 installed. they said they would replace the battery under warranty, even if it was my bad alternator that fried it.

thoughts?
All makes sense.

As for your first start with your new AGM being slow. I replaced my battery in my 4Runner the other day with an Odyssey AGM and it didn't completely turn over the first time (only turned key for 3sec). Tried again and started up no problem. No issue since that first start up.

My guess is by removing all power replacing the battery it probably caused a delay on its very first initial start up.
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Old 01-17-2022, 07:28 PM #14
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Did you charge the battery before testing it? Any dead battery will fail a load test. We've had AAA fail a battery and try to sell us a new one, declined and it still drove the car fine until she sold it like a year later. I've lost plenty of alternators and can't remember ever frying a battery because of it. If they're warrantying it then whatever, but still. You should be able to get a Denso off Rockauto for around half that price and although I don't know this engine alternators are never hard. Buy a socket set and you could do it yourself in a couple hours even with no experience. Hell, charge it up and drive down here and you can do it in my driveway for free. Maniac electric also sells regulators for most alternators for around $40
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Old 01-18-2022, 03:34 AM #15
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any more info on the MOD?
"Voltage Booster" for 31M AGM Battery
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