Someone REALLY needs to build a airbag to fit with a coil spring up front or an air shock for a secondary shock setup for the front so we can have adjustable height on the fly. I tried when I swapped to GX rear air suspension for a while, but no one would make me a front airbag that fit a 2.5" shock.

The ride is much nicer at stock or near stock height. Having the ability to run stock height until you really need more clearance and then go up 3" would be the dream setup IMO. Like Lexus AHC in the LX. It would solve so many issue we have with the 4R. But it really should be a air/coil spring combo so spring rate remains the same at each height. It's a tricky problem to solve in the limited space up front. Rear is easy.

All it would really take is an air cup or air bag that could adjust from 2" to 4" in length and mount on the top of a 12" or so coil spring. That's really all we'd need. I've thought about a few other ways to make it work with a custom upper strut mount or even some small hydraulic options. But a simple air over coil would be the best bet if someone would make them. If i could build one myself I'd do it.

It would solve a lot of problems like this one. No need for guessing spring rates. Just set to the height you want. Don't like it - adjust up or down at the push of a button. But with a coil holding most of the weight, so if the air fails you're still just running at normal height.

I don't think its a king thing, but 2 to 2.5 lift is the sweet spot for our suspension, it's just the other manufactures don't want to acknowledge that for marketing purposes. Its a dick measuring contest between the manufactures.

I don't think the OP has a choice but to run a 3 inch lift to clear 35's.

yea there isnt much adjustment range when theres only 9" of travel, runs outta droop real quick. (i found out recently that gen 2 tundras can pull almost 11" with just uppers and extended coilovers....wtf)



if he cranks them up to 3" to clear, that doesnt change the fact itll still rub when it compresses. his arms still have the same amount of travel theyre just sitting in the bottom range when daily driving. or upper range, i guess depends on how you look at it? lol

Convert these to coilovers or add it like LT kits do bypass and you'd get what you're describing: Please Wait... | Cloudflare

Do you do any higher speed off roading or mostly just trails and crawling? (and I know you like mud from your IG lol)

If not really looking for preventing bottoming out at higher speeds, 650lb would be ideal (I have 650lb with no extra weight and 6112's, and I like it a lot but I bomb pretty hard). If you do plan on going faster, I'd go 700lb.

Do you have progressive bump stops already? If not, get some of those for sure (durobumps have my vote).

I considered those. I think they'd work with a secondary shock tower setup. And then remove the valves inside so it's just an open piston with some very light weight oil. The one lingering issue for me is that they require nitrogen gas charge. I think I could just use relatively clean dry compressed air with them. I use compressed air for my fox shocks and have never had an issue. But I don't fill and discharge them repeatedly either.

The other issue is that they need pretty high pressure to hold much weight. Especially in a 2:1 leverage ratio like we have. It takes 500psi to provide 1200lbs of force - that would equal 2" of height change riding on 600lb coil springs. And that's the max pressure they're rated for. I haven't looked at the cost of a 500psi pump or the electric pressure regulation setup that you'd need for that pressure.

Edit: My math was bad. It would take 500psi to move a 600lb coil spring 2". But with the 2:1 leverage ratio we have, that would be 4 inches of height adjustment from 0-500psi. So they would at least be plausible as an adjustable height option with the correct air deliver system.

Heavy plus on that. I’m only on tiny 33s and when I bottom out the front end I’m hitting my fenders even with extended bump stops. Sure I could get more caster in there but I doubt it would fix it completely. I can’t imagine running 35s.

This is what my wheel well looked like after 220 miles of whoops and high speed washboard when I was in the Mojave a couple of weeks ago. The mudless areas depict tire contact




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haha mine look exactly like that. i have duro bumps as well. might add a 1/4" spacer to push the bump stops down a touch.

Well I'm not sure if I prefer the mud that just seems to be the easiest to find around here lol but I want to be capable to do anything and everything.

I dont have progressive bumps; I have Energy in the front and Toytec in the rear. May upgrade to some progressives.

Progressive bumps are one of those things that makes a night and day difference, but sometimes gets overlooked. Really smooths out the bigger hits, but also being progressive and engaging a little earlier than stock bumps, works for dips or the occasional curb drop as well.

your energy suspension bumps in the front already act like extended progressive bump stops due to how they are shaped. You won't see an improvement by upgrading to wheelers or durobumps or timbrens. I would run a bump stop spacer to the ES bumps if you still have clearance issues.

I would definitely upgrade your rears if you are just using toytec extensions....

I'm planning on Duro bumps in the rear, or I might go all out and get the Dobinsons or King hydraulic bump stops. Havent decided yet

the kings with the total chaos fab mounts are sweet. I love them, zero issues. the dobinson/icon setup however is a sweet package in that you never have to worry about tire clearances.

the total chaos fab ones however give you unlimited adjustability for your specific setup. you can weld them on where its truly needed PLUS with the king threaded bumps you can adjust those as needed too. Plus when they need to be rebuild or the nitrogen checked you can pop them off in 2 seconds.

its crucial to cycle the suspension for bumps to make sure they engage where they should and bottom out at the right time. easy to do on the rear with the springs pulled, shocks still attached.

10/10 recommend hydraulic bumps for the rear. its fun

thoughts on cutting the stock bump mount and notching it for a can and a 2" hydro bump stop?

Don't waste your money on air bumps, overkill for what you do (overkill for 98% of 4Runner owners out there honestly, and just like shocks they'll eventually need to have their seals replaced, impact pads can wear out too if you're contacting them frequently). Durobumps, Timbrens, Wheelers, etc. are all good, simple options. The Energy Suspension ones might be fine as well, but my experience with their bump stops is that they're cheap and not that strong, so you lose the better progressive control the others offer. Could be wrong, but there's a reason they're super cheap.

I have Durobumps all around. After a mud run, my rears had a small chunk get cut out, prob from a rock getting stuck on the axle housing then me bouncing hard. Sent them some pics and they mailed me whole new rear set. Great customer service.