02-12-2022, 04:31 PM
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#1
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HELP: How to remove Idler No. 1 Bolt?
I'm swapping out both the idler no. 2, idler no.1, and serpentine belt. The two idler no. 2 were easy to swap out but the bolt for idler no. 1 will not budge at all and I am on the verge of stripping the bolt head.
I tried soaking it with PB Blaster, also heated with a torch. It's in an extremely tight place due to the oil filter assembly so a socket wrench will not fit in there. I tried using a 14mm crowfoot wrench which kept slipping off due to stripping, then tried an open end wrench but with the same result.
Any suggestion on how to get it off? Thanks
Last edited by Seattle206; 02-12-2022 at 04:35 PM.
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02-12-2022, 04:54 PM
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#2
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Do not use box wrench or crowfoot. 6 point wrench is the only way to go. Keep in mind that both idler pulleys have standard tread but tension pulley is left tread.
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02-12-2022, 05:31 PM
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#3
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use a 6 point socket or a 6pt wrench ....you did the 12 point socket ? probably a china tool ..
now if you can not remove it with the 6pt tool then use a turbo torch heat the bolt with a good sized flame to just flame it to the bolt ..then put the wrench in a ice bucket ...the bolt is hot then the wrench cold will shrink the bolt threads or Toyota used a thread loctite ..
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02-12-2022, 05:44 PM
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#4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by catrains
use a 6 point socket or a 6pt wrench ....you did the 12 point socket ? probably a china tool ..
now if you can not remove it with the 6pt tool then use a turbo torch heat the bolt with a good sized flame to just flame it to the bolt ..then put the wrench in a ice bucket ...the bolt is hot then the wrench cold will shrink the bolt threads or Toyota used a thread loctite ..
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You could always use dry ice too...available qt most grocery stores. Heat the area around the bolt and hold a piece of dry ice against the bolt head for minute. It should shrink the bolt faster than surrounding metal due to less thermal mass.
Also make sure the socket is a quality brand as tolerances can be off....you may even consider a flank drive socket from snap-on if you are really concerned. Lastly, some sockets the first couple mm of the inner area is slightly beveled (like a magazine well on a pistol) to make it easier to place on bolt. You could grind off the first mm or so of the socket to insure 100 percent use of the bolt head flats.
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02-12-2022, 08:44 PM
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#5
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Okay, so I gave up before I really round off the bolt. Yes, I was using a Craftsman 14mm combo wrench (12-point), bad choice. This is the most stubborn bolt I've dealt with on my '14 t4r, surprisingly.
I went and ordered a 14mm 6-point long wrench. When it arrives I'll torch the bolt again try it with wrench.
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02-12-2022, 11:16 PM
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#6
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Do you really need to replace it? If so, pull the oil cooler out, just make sure to have a new gasket for the oil cooler.
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02-12-2022, 11:43 PM
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#7
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jeremy556
Do you really need to replace it? If so, pull the oil cooler out, just make sure to have a new gasket for the oil cooler.
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I got an Toyota OEM idler kit for a great price last black Friday. I'm at 125k and thought og refreshing some of the original parts. The idler no. 1 actually spins smoothly but if since I'm in there I might as replace it.
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02-13-2022, 01:02 AM
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#8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle206
I got an Toyota OEM idler kit for a great price last black Friday. I'm at 125k and thought og refreshing some of the original parts. The idler no. 1 actually spins smoothly but if since I'm in there I might as replace it.
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125 isn't much, I would leave it. I recently replaced my idlers at 300k and it was done as PM, they were all fine, I was just doing some other work in the area and figured I might as well.
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02-13-2022, 10:37 AM
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#9
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Toyota makes an idler kit? Got a part number?
Good suggestion on grinding down the socket face, this is good for stubborn diff drain bolts too.
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02-13-2022, 12:41 PM
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#10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1000MPH
Toyota makes an idler kit? Got a part number?
Good suggestion on grinding down the socket face, this is good for stubborn diff drain bolts too.
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It was a deal package from Toyota of Kirkland which included the idler 2 pulleys, idler 1, and belt.
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02-13-2022, 01:26 PM
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#11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Seattle206
Okay, so I gave up before I really round off the bolt. Yes, I was using a Craftsman 14mm combo wrench (12-point), bad choice. This is the most stubborn bolt I've dealt with on my '14 t4r, surprisingly.
I went and ordered a 14mm 6-point long wrench. When it arrives I'll torch the bolt again try it with wrench.
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You might also try an impact ratchet...not a regular electric or cordless ratchet....but the internal hammering of a true impact wrench, ratchet could do the trick....but they are relatively expensive....but a good excuse to buy one!
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02-13-2022, 02:17 PM
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#12
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Quote:
Originally Posted by lewdog998
You might also try an impact ratchet...not a regular electric or cordless ratchet....but the internal hammering of a true impact wrench, ratchet could do the trick....but they are relatively expensive....but a good excuse to buy one!
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It would be hard to get that impact ratchet in there because the area is so tight unless I remove the oil cooler which then frees up a lot of real estate.
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02-13-2022, 02:56 PM
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#13
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Low profile impact socket will fit in there
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