That's regear territory so this tire is rarely used. Once you regear most people want tires bigger than that. I want to regear!! So are you regearing I'm jealous!
Dang, thats the first time I've seen cut/mod. Im guessing its to clear during articulation when wheels are turned? Are you able to show what it looks like behind the front wheel where the fender cap should be? Also do you recall what your caster is set at? Do you think you would've had better clearance with a body lift?
Correct. I haven’t put the fender cap back on yet, I am contemplating how to completely remove the portion of fender that the cap clips on too and make it look reasonable. I wish I would have sandwiched my liner when I hammered the pinch welds. Castor is 4.4 I think. Personally I wouldn’t bother with body lift, I am not a fan of the look and if you are fully articulating your suspension you will probably still rub with a large - off set. The vehicle doesn’t like these big heavy tires and I have a set of 4.88’s waiting to be installed.
The thing about running 34's to me is not the fit but how they made the transmission shift points off on the highway at 70mph. I ran them a year before I regeared with 4:56's and was night and day.
These are bad enough with 33's but highway driving with 34's before re-gearing ,it kept shifting back and forth between 4th and 5th gear if there was the slightest hill or puff of headwind out on the highway. That crazy shift that these things do where it downshifts and floors it at the same time then shifts and then floors it and down shifts again 30 seconds later.
Unless I kept it in 4th gear ,Tranny temps over 200, and I was heavy but no trailer, going through hills or mountains because of it shifting back and forth. Not to mention that made that the gas mileage about 10-12mpg on a good day with the gearing being off .But I was running heavy KM2 MT's but I think all 34's that I've seen are HEAVY tires.
My advice....Regear first with anything over 33's on the highway or the drive ability sucks and the transmission/torque converter will thank you. Especially if you live or are going to the mountains.
the 305s on truetire and manf say they are the same weight as my 295s. (yes circum is larger).
Im not bothered with shift points on my 295s at all... i drive like a gheezer tho. Never really loaded other then trailering a tiny trailer with da dirt bike.
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Tirdy5's w/ -70 F5's
Correct. I haven’t put the fender cap back on yet, I am contemplating how to completely remove the portion of fender that the cap clips on too and make it look reasonable. I wish I would have sandwiched my liner when I hammered the pinch welds. Castor is 4.4 I think. Personally I wouldn’t bother with body lift, I am not a fan of the look and if you are fully articulating your suspension you will probably still rub with a large - off set. The vehicle doesn’t like these big heavy tires and I have a set of 4.88’s waiting to be installed.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
what do you mean by "sandwich the liner" My goal is to keep my rocker caps...
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Tirdy5's w/ -70 F5's
I had 305/70/17 with -38 offset on my 2019 4runner (now they are going on my 2021 4runner).
I just finished putting 315/70/17 on 2022 gx460 (same concept as on 4runner).
The truth it there is no easy answer to will it fit. That is why you will get 100 different opinions. Each tire manufacturer is slightly different in advertised sizes. Each vehicle (believe it or not) is slightly different. Your upper control arms may be different then the guy giving you advise (less/more camber).
The short answer to your question is if you don’t want to trim; stay with 33s. If you are willing to trim; you can go up to 35s.
Trimming will be different for every vehicle so your only option is to take the coils and shocks off, jack up the tire to max, adjust bump stops. Turn side to side and start trimming and banging (may be required for some sheet metal).
It took about 8 hours of trimming for 34s and about 20 hours for 35s. A lot of taking tire on and off!
The other things to consider is steering component wear / breakage. I’d be OK with 33s and any weight on car. With 34s I’d be ok with a light bumper and winch and not much loaded. With 35s…. Your going to start breaking tie rods if you have too much weight/abuse.
Last to consider is gears…. That’s on you and easy to research. Not needed but nice. If you’re on 35s…. Don’t go 4.88 though if you wheel. You’ll break them.
I recently went with 305's as I wanted 35's but not ready to cut fenders on a new vehicle lol. Still working to get them to fit fully with no rub but it's not to bad. A slight rub under compression while at full lock isn't a big concern to me.
This is my clearance at full lock after moving my castor as far forward as possible with a fairly aggressive bmc
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21 ORP- Victory4x4 strike front bumper, Dobinsons IMS extended travel with 302/675, RCI sliders and skids. Method 701's 17x9 305/70/17 maxxis razr MT's, 4.88's, Brute force rear bumper, sherpa roof rack.