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Old 03-18-2022, 10:04 AM #1
c10bonanza c10bonanza is offline
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Help identify front end noise - 2017 4Runner with 92k miles

Hey folks. I have a 2017 SR5P with 92k miles. Over the last couple of months I have started to notice a noise from the front end of my 4Runner. It is not so much of a "whomp whomp," but instead is a consistent growl and slight vibration. Although, at times, it does present more of a "whomp whomp" type of noise/feel. It is most noticeable when decelerating from 30mph down to 5mph.

My first thought was perhaps the driver-side needle bearing was shot. But, when I engage 4H, the sound/feel largely remains.

I jacked up the front end last night to check the front tires for any slop, thinking perhaps my front wheel bearings were going out. I could not feel any movement top to bottom. Everything felt very firm.

Next, I spun the front tires to listen for bearing noise. Now, granted, I don't really know what I am listening for, but the only noise I heard was a pretty consistent metallic sound. Almost as if the brake pads were slightly dragging on the rotors. That sound was present on both sides.

I'm on my original set of pads and rotors which I will soon be changing. My brake pedal is pretty soft and has a lot of travel, so I will be changing the brake fluid as well.

Thoughts? Is it normal to hear a slight dragging sound when spinning the front tires? Could the growling noise/slight vibration I am experiencing when slowing down between 30-5mph be the front wheel bearings, even if there is no top to bottom play in the tires and no discernable "whomp" noise when spinning the tires?

Is there something else I should be checking?

Thanks!
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Old 03-18-2022, 10:20 AM #2
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Try rotating the tires and see what happens and inspect the CV boots. And check your front diff fluid level.

Otherwise I guess start with all the stuff you mentioned, starting with easiest/cheapest first assuming you're doing it yourself and not having a shop try to diagnose it. At 90k you might as well do that stuff. Turn the rotors, new brake pads, shims, grease caliper pins etc, brake fluid flush, resurface hub/wheel, ECGS teflon diff bushing and oil seal, diff fluid change, wheel bearings. It's faster just to just carpet bomb it with parts that may be borderline than spending ages trying to figure out exactly what is causing it in my opinion. Even if it doesn't fix it's one less thing you'll have to worry about later, especially if you already have stuff taken apart you save on labor/time in the long run. I doubt it's the lower ball joint (mine look like originals at twice the mileage) but you could check how floppy and loose the outer tie rod is.
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Last edited by repo; 03-18-2022 at 10:44 AM.
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Old 03-18-2022, 12:14 PM #3
c10bonanza c10bonanza is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repo View Post
Try rotating the tires and see what happens and inspect the CV boots. And check your front diff fluid level.

Otherwise I guess start with all the stuff you mentioned, starting with easiest/cheapest first assuming you're doing it yourself and not having a shop try to diagnose it. At 90k you might as well do that stuff. Turn the rotors, new brake pads, shims, grease caliper pins etc, brake fluid flush, resurface hub/wheel, ECGS teflon diff bushing and oil seal, diff fluid change, wheel bearings. It's faster just to just carpet bomb it with parts that may be borderline than spending ages trying to figure out exactly what is causing it in my opinion. Even if it doesn't fix it's one less thing you'll have to worry about later, especially if you already have stuff taken apart you save on labor/time in the long run. I doubt it's the lower ball joint (mine look like originals at twice the mileage) but you could check how floppy and loose the outer tie rod is.
Thanks, Repo.

I've ordered new pads and rotors and will be installing those in the next few weeks. I'll rotate the tires early next week and see if that makes a difference.

I'm due for front and rear differential, along with transfer case, fluid changes and will do that during my next oil change.

I'd rather not replace parts that aren't worn yet. Just trying to identify what could be the source of the noise.
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Old 03-18-2022, 12:47 PM #4
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Quote:
Originally Posted by c10bonanza View Post
Thanks, Repo.

I've ordered new pads and rotors and will be installing those in the next few weeks. I'll rotate the tires early next week and see if that makes a difference.

I'm due for front and rear differential, along with transfer case, fluid changes and will do that during my next oil change.

I'd rather not replace parts that aren't worn yet. Just trying to identify what could be the source of the noise.
toyota has a 25% off sale going , check out slickdeals site and search toyota. Fluids are on sale I think the gear oil is only $45 and ATF is $5-6 a qt.
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Old 03-18-2022, 01:33 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by osugsxr View Post
toyota has a 25% off sale going , check out slickdeals site and search toyota. Fluids are on sale I think the gear oil is only $45 and ATF is $5-6 a qt.
Toyota ATF and coolant for sure but you can skip the gear oil. Just go to Napa or wherever and get major brand name (Castrol and the like) 75W-90 for way cheaper. Conventional or synthetic is up to you personally I use conventional in the gallon jugs but I change gear oil about every 20k which is probably overkill tbh, at least for the front diff and transfer case.

BTW if you have Menards their performax gear oil pumps and infinately better than the crap ones at the auto parts store. Super annoying having those junk pumps brake half way through the job.
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