[MTN4RNR]

Hey all!

I’m looking to gather information from those who have King 2.5 OEM Performance Series Coilovers on their 4Runners (regardless of model). I’m purely looking for information, to which I’ll be making a separate posting with that gathered info. I have found that when it comes to getting the adjustments correct with these shocks, there is some information scattered across a number of threads with how much preload different members have with different lift heights, spring rates, and gear on their rigs affecting overall weight. For those like me just having installed them, I felt it would be nice to have some information prior to installation so that you can have the best chance at not needing to pull the coilovers out to adjust them after the first installation (because that’s what is required to adjust the preload collars on these blue beauties). So, getting a set of data from you all with some basic information might help someone who is getting theirs installed for the first time.

Here’s what I’d like from you (provide as much as you can):

- Year, model:
- Compression Adjusters: yes or no
- KDSS: yes or no (if yes, include any “KDSS Lean” compensating items like springs, or spacers, etc)
- Spring rate:
- Preload: (in turns / threads exposed), for driver and passenger sides
- Height increase: (if available) over stock, using 20” as a baseline for “stock” from center of wheel to bottom of fender (at 90°)
- Major weight upgrades: (Full skids, bumper/winch, sliders, etc)
- Changes that you have made in preload or spring rate and why:
- A brief set of notes with your thoughts on your setup: (firmness, ride height, etc)

If there is anything else that someone might find needed in this survey PM ME
If you have questions about why I’m doing this or want to chat about what it’s all about PM ME
If you have a problem with this survey and think it’s a waste of time and space PM ME

I’d like to keep the posts as informational as possible, therefore I will be vetting any non-informational posts out. Once I gather the info, I’ll post another thread and delete this one. Then we can all discuss the findings and help each other out.

I hope this all works for you, and that we can develop this into a good guide for those upgrading their suspension and helping them get it as close to right as possible from the get go.


My Info:
- Year/Model: 2016/Trail
- Compression adjusters: No
- KDSS: Yes, Dobinsons KDSS specific rear coils, 15mm taller passenger side
- Spring rate: Stock King 550
- Preload: 12/12 (Note: This is being changed this coming weekend to 8/8, WAY too much)
- Height increase: 23" or 3" lift
- Major weight upgrades: Sliders
- Changes that you have made in preload or spring rate and why: Changing from 12 turns to 8 turns to soften ride and reduce overall height
- A brief set of notes with your thoughts on your setup (firmness, ride height, etc): Small bumps are still noticeable, and the ride is stiff at slow speeds which is why I am adjusting the preload down to a more "comfortable" level. Big bumps and terrain shifts are soaked up very well, even with the higher preload.

[4Running303]

Here's my info...and fwiw I am able to adjust with the coilovers on the rig. I know this is not what they tell you do cause they don't want you to mess up the threads, but I jack up the corner and leave the tire on. This removes enough preload to get to where I am on my threads. I wouldn't try to add any more though cause it gets pretty stiff.

- 2015 TE
- KDSS yes, no adjustments for lean
- 600lbs
- 8 Driver, 8 Passenger side
- 3"
- Hefty Fab Aluminum front, Warn VR10000S Winch, Odyssey 34R battery, ARB Dual Compressor, full aluminum skids, OPOR sliders...and my hack job wiring.
- Went from 6 to 8 threads showing to help clear the 305/70-17 Nittos.
- Ride is honestly a little firm on the little bumps. Very solid on turns, so much so that I am contemplating experimenting by disconnecting my sway bars from the KDSS pistons. Off road they still flex well...probably cause of the 600 lbs coils. I am, however, thinking of changing to 650 lbs coils when I need to have them serviced. I could reduce preload that way and maintain the height I feel i need.

[DannyLlama]

@4Running303 sexy

[wfo9]

Originally Posted by 4Running303

Here's my info...and fwiw I am able to adjust with the coilovers on the rig. I know this is not what they tell you do cause they don't want you to mess up the threads, but I jack up the corner and leave the tire on. This removes enough preload to get to where I am on my threads. I wouldn't try to add any more though cause it gets pretty stiff.

- 2015 TE
- KDSS yes, no adjustments for lean
- 600lbs
- 8 Driver, 8 Passenger side
- 3"
- Hefty Fab Aluminum front, Warn VR10000S Winch, Odyssey 34R battery, ARB Dual Compressor...and my hack job wiring.
- Went from 6 to 8 threads showing to help clear the 305/70-17 Nittos.
- Ride is honestly a little firm on the little bumps. Very solid on turns, so much so that I am contemplating experimenting by disconnecting my sway bars from the KDSS pistons. Off road they still flex well...probably cause of the 600 lbs coils. I am, however, thinking of changing to 650 lbs coils when I need to have them serviced. I could reduce preload that way and maintain the height I feel i need.

Take the swaybars off and the entire feel will change. Hard to get a very compliant ride at speed offroad with KDSS. 600lbs springs are very much on the light side for a winch on the front.... your bumper is light though...

[MTN4RNR]

Originally Posted by DannyLlama

@4Running303 sexy

Originally Posted by wfo9

Take the swaybars off and the entire feel will change. Hard to get a very compliant ride at speed offroad with KDSS. 600lbs springs are very much on the light side for a winch on the front.... your bumper is light though...

I would appreciate keeping this to info only, gents.

[weeeee]

- 2015 4Runner TRDP
- Non-KDSS. Running a single OME 10mm trim packer on the left rear to compensate for gas tank lean/tire on driver side.
- 700# springs up front
- 7 threads showing on driver front (about an inch of thread), zero preload on passenger side. Further offsets/evens out the driver side lean that I have.
- 2.5" front, 2" rears fully loaded. Icon Overland/Heavy springs in the rear.
- Too much weight to list. Steel skids, armor, winch, RTT, cargo setup, gear. Pushing close to 1000lb over stock when loaded.
- Went with 700# springs up front and ditched both front and rear sways for added articulation offroad. 1" longer rear shafts, front and rears re-valved for 800lb extra rear weight, fronts revalved for 700# springs and 250lb extra weight.
- Feels awesome on the road, super comfy ride yet firm when it matters. Valving made a world of a difference IMHO, although those not running a lot of extra weight won't need it.

Those running similar front setups without ditching front sway bars will probably be better of running 650# front springs vs. the 700#. I feel like 700# is close to overkill even with my weight, but I need it to keep the body roll in check without my sway bars.

[Bryguy17]

I'll play. This info was pretty hard to come by when I did my install, and I wish I had more info to inform my settings. Hopefully someone can benefit from this and not need to readjust like I do

- 2016 TE
- KDSS. No lean compensation needed.
- 650# springs in front, SAW ~1.5" coils rear.
- 3 turns preload on both front coils. 1.25" spacers all around (Increases the motion ratio, so more preload is needed to achieve the same lift)
- no adjusters, no regrets about not getting them.
- extended travel front shocks, total chaos ucas
- Currently 1.5"F/2.0"R.
- SSO front bumper, Warn ZEON 10-s, OPOR sliders, Gobi, RTT, and about 100lbs of tools/gear in back. Second battery is in the works.
- I will be adding 4-5 turns of preload to bring me to 2.5"/2" F/R lift to level everything out. Needs bigger tires too, but I'll wait until I wear out the 265's first.
- Overall very happy with the setup. Feels a bit stiffer unladen on the road over small bumps than stock (especially in the rear). Once you get the high-speed compression circuit to open up (large, fast hits like potholes and larger bumps), it is straight butter. Higher-speed travel in rough stuff is night a day difference from stock, even with the KDSS. Still corners like a race car on the road. Articulation is still great.

And extremely unexciting driveway shot (but best I have at the moment):

[wfo9]

Originally Posted by Bryguy17

- 3 turns preload on both front coils. 1.25" spacers all around (Increases the motion ratio, so more preload is needed to achieve the same lift)

Sorry, I know OP wanted info only.. but I have to mention that spacers don't change the motion ratio at all (the pivot points all stay exactly the same...). It will impact the leverage ratio on the spindle only, which will have a potential impact on how the shock and tire perform in dynamic situations and may have a slight impact on alignment and how the tire carries the weight (camber). But it really should have no impact on dampening, pre-load or spring requirements to obtain lift.... Now, if you change the control arm lengths.... that will have a dramatic impact on the shock and the motion ratios, but that is outside of this discussion.

[MTN4RNR]

Originally Posted by wfo9

Sorry, I know OP wanted info only.. but I have to mention that spacers don't change the motion ratio at all (the pivot points all stay exactly the same...). It will impact the leverage ratio on the spindle only, which will have a potential impact on how the shock and tire perform in dynamic situations and may have a slight impact on alignment and how the tire carries the weight (camber). But it really should have no impact on dampening, pre-load or spring requirements to obtain lift.... Now, if you change the control arm lengths.... that will have a dramatic impact on the shock and the motion ratios, but that is outside of this discussion.

While the info here is notable, I'll say again that I would like to keep this thread on track.

To all: If you have something to discuss with another post author, side line it for the time being in your PM's and if the info is valuable to this thread specifically, shoot it my way first. I have seen how many threads with good intentions get off-track fast when someone starts a new topic.

Again, I am not saying that what you have to say isn't correct or important in it's own way, I just want to keep the thread as straight forward as possible.

[cdiset]

Originally Posted by weeeee

- 2015 4Runner TRDP
- Non-KDSS. Running a single OME 10mm trim packer on the left rear to compensate for gas tank lean/tire on driver side.
- 700# springs up front
- Zero preload on driver front, 7 threads showing on passenger front (about an inch of thread).
- 2.5" front, 2" rears fully loaded. Icon Overland/Heavy springs in the rear.
- Too much weight to list. Steel skids, armor, winch, RTT, cargo setup, gear. Pushing close to 1000lb over stock when loaded.
- Went with 700# springs up front and ditched both front and rear sways for added articulation offroad. 1" longer rear shafts, front and rears re-valved for 800lb extra rear weight, fronts revalved for 700# springs and 250lb extra weight.
- Feels awesome on the road, super comfy ride yet firm when it matters. Valving made a world of a difference IMHO, although those not running a lot of extra weight won't need it.

Those running similar front setups without ditching front sway bars will probably be better of running 650# front springs vs. the 700#. I feel like 700# is close to overkill even with my weight, but I need it to keep the body roll in check without my sway bars.

Hey Weeeee, Im trying to get my head around zero driver preload, and 7 threads passenger? Can you share why?

[cdiset]

Originally Posted by weeeee

I had to go back and read what I wrote to fix it. It is 7 threads on driver side, zero preload on passenger.

That still doesn't help me. Is that to offset some sort of left-to-right lean you have otherwise?

[MTN4RNR]

Originally Posted by MTN4RNR

While the info here is notable, I'll say again that I would like to keep this thread on track.

To all: If you have something to discuss with another post author, side line it for the time being in your PM's and if the info is valuable to this thread specifically, shoot it my way first. I have seen how many threads with good intentions get off-track fast when someone starts a new topic.

Again, I am not saying that what you have to say isn't correct or important in it's own way, I just want to keep the thread as straight forward as possible.

Originally Posted by cdiset

Hey Weeeee, Im trying to get my head around zero driver preload, and 7 threads passenger? Can you share why?

Dude. Look at what I posted LITERALLY one post before yours. Play by the rules or find your questions deleted.

Hosting a straight forward thread with simple rules be like

[e60ral]

thread creators can delete posts in their thread now?

[MTN4RNR]

Originally Posted by e60ral

thread creators can delete posts in their thread now?

Apparently I can’t. Still, let’s adere to the guidelines if we can, guys.

[MTN4RNR]

Hey all,

Got a message mentioning that I forgot to add the question of whether or not people have compression adjusters, DOH! Definitely a mistake on my part. If you have already posted, please add whether or not you have adjusters! And I have updated the original post

Thanks!