03-27-2022, 10:52 AM
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#16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirWilliamGoes
Brake Pads. I’ve generally gotten 40-50k out of oem pads. The last time I decided to go with Oreilly store brand for $30. Half the price as OE and I have gotten about 40k so far and no issues. I expect to change them in <10k
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I highly recommend the follow pads and rotors, both of which will surpass OEM in terms of performance and wear.
RAYBESTOS SP606TRH Specialty - Truck; Ceramic (Pads)
RAYBESTOS 980784PER R-300 High Performance (Rotors, slotted)
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03-27-2022, 10:57 AM
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#17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 2021nightshade4x4
Not to dissent from the general direction of this thread - but considering today’s typical breakdown of shop labor and parts markups - labor is such a huge part of any type of job that learning to DIY install something frees up your budget to pick just about ANY brand of part you want.
Are we talking about FURTHER reducing cost by comparing brands when we were already planning to do the work ourselves?
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Took my wife's 4Runner in for road force balancing and tire rotation and they wanted to replace tie rods and align it for $1,200. I replaced the tie rods myself (installed Mevotech's top of the line which were less than 1/2 the price of OEM) and took it into our alignment shop in SoCal for $100.
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03-27-2022, 11:18 AM
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#18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CutthroatSlam
Took my wife's 4Runner in for road force balancing and tire rotation and they wanted to replace tie rods and align it for $1,200. I replaced the tie rods myself (installed Mevotech's top of the line which were less than 1/2 the price of OEM) and took it into our alignment shop in SoCal for $100.
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I'm wondering if the $1200 dollar quote included inner and outer tie rod ends. OEM MSRP is $228 for the inner and $60 for the outer or $576 total in parts.
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03-27-2022, 11:29 AM
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#19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougR
I'm wondering if the $1200 dollar quote included inner and outer tie rod ends. OEM MSRP is $228 for the inner and $60 for the outer or $576 total in parts.
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I forget all that was included in that estimate, but parts were like $150 for me.
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03-27-2022, 11:49 AM
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#20
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Join Date: May 2013
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Tie rods. That’s another good one. I e beat on my Moog ends for over 50k miles now with great results. The oem lasted 100k but cost much more. Moogs have lifetime warranty
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03-27-2022, 03:25 PM
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#21
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Join Date: Dec 2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SirWilliamGoes
Brake Pads. I’ve generally gotten 40-50k out of oem pads. The last time I decided to go with Oreilly store brand for $30. Half the price as OE and I have gotten about 40k so far and no issues. I expect to change them in <10k
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gstick
I have not had good luck with aftermarket pads. I tried Napa "Gold" pads on my 2010 4R & only got 15000 miles out of them. Now I stick with the OEM.
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bigdaddy2021
I’ve had the same experience with pep boys house brand. Very dirty but man, years and years, and tens of thousands of miles between 3-4 different vehicles.
Plan on trying a local parts store for brakes when it’s time.
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Put Wagner OEX Ceramics on 40k miles ago and show very little wear.
Should easily make 100k.
Great stopping power with no noise and no dust and no fade (mountains)
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03-27-2022, 05:37 PM
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#22
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Strongarm liftgate struts maybe. They are cheaper, but I don't think they last as long as OE.
There are many things that you can get cheaper straight from Denso instead of Toyota. Sensors, alternators, starters, radiators and things. Often in stock at your local NAPA.
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03-27-2022, 06:39 PM
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#23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repo
There are many things that you can get cheaper straight from Denso instead of Toyota. Sensors, alternators, starters, radiators and things. Often in stock at your local NAPA.
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Thanks for this! I entered Denso in the search box and about 16 various Denso parts appeared.
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03-27-2022, 08:06 PM
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#24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DougR
Thanks for this! I entered Denso in the search box and about 16 various Denso parts appeared.
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Sometimes it takes a while to figure out the equivalent p/n. Number might be on the old part somewhere or you can look up on the Denso website. Then you have to figure out which bank o2 sensor, which amp of starter, etc.
Denso Find My Part
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03-28-2022, 01:06 AM
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#25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by repo
Maxdrive were made by Cardone I think. There are only about 3 aftermarket CV manufacturers/remanufacturers. I've had good results with Cardone ones. You can tell who actually made Napa stuff by looking at the warranty doc it usually says either the company name somewhere or has a phone number that will tell you when you google it.
You can probably find the same axle still at RockAuto, for cheaper too. Napa has a better warranty that's the only difference from what I've gathered. The Napa part numbers are pretty much the same so easy to figure out.
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Awesome, thanks for that bit of info. I'll have to look and do some research.
Looking at the warranty PDF on NAPA's cv axles, which might be a brand called "Automotive CV Axle" one section says "warranty void if boot is damaged in anyway." I guess that'd be up to NAPA's decision. Always did see great warranty stories on the Facebook groups so time will tell.
Quote:
Originally Posted by 2021nightshade4x4
Would you gain any travel if you were to have long travel CV axles as well?
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I wouldn't think so. I think my limiting factor is either the shocks or the JBA upper control arm. At full droop, the center of hub to top of fender measure 26"
on both sides and the OEM passenger CV axle doesn't bind at all.
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Last edited by MyanRagahis; 03-28-2022 at 01:53 AM.
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03-28-2022, 12:56 PM
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#26
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My experience with aftermarket CV axles is that they use neoprene boots that do not hold up to heat. I have seen boots split in as little as 2 years.
If going with aftermarket CV axles, Rockford is the only manufacturer of thermoplastic, heat resistant boots:
Rockford Constant Velocity - C.V. Dura Boot Kit
Rockford's boots are decently priced and from my experience, well worth it. I would reboot any replacement CV axle with Rockford Duraboots and call it good.
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03-28-2022, 01:21 PM
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#27
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Front extended bump stops off Amazon for like $40
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03-28-2022, 03:24 PM
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#28
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CutthroatSlam
My experience with aftermarket CV axles is that they use neoprene boots that do not hold up to heat. I have seen boots split in as little as 2 years.
If going with aftermarket CV axles, Rockford is the only manufacturer of thermoplastic, heat resistant boots:
Rockford Constant Velocity - C.V. Dura Boot Kit
Rockford's boots are decently priced and from my experience, well worth it. I would reboot any replacement CV axle with Rockford Duraboots and call it good.
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Their website only lists 4runners up to 1995
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03-28-2022, 04:52 PM
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#29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by octanejunkie
Their website only lists 4runners up to 1995
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I assumed and did not check. I’ve used them on our 1999 and 1994 Chevrolet Suburban K2500 4WD w/ 6.5 diesel.
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03-28-2022, 08:32 PM
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#30
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One caution I would offer up to everybody here is to look beyond sexy marketing, packaging and paint jobs on aftermarket parts. Let's face it, Toyota parts packaging is boring and inexpensive - because it doesn't generally affect the quality of the parts contained therein. The OP asked about parts that perform as well or better than OEM, so before anybody can answer that question for a particular part, they need to have gotten more miles and better performance out of the aftermarket part under identical conditions.
The reason I bring this up is that many times you will see somebody say something like this: "My OEM (insert name of part) lasted 150,000 miles before failing. I bought (insert name of aftermarket part) for less than half the cost of OEM and have had them in for 500 miles. So far, they're awesome." Yea, I'd buy those parts in a heartbeat to use on the next mission to Mars based on that kind of testing.
Just be careful.
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