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Old 04-20-2022, 04:33 PM #31
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ok...got stuff coming.

Ordered amsoil severe gear for the front and rear diffs.

gonna get the Tranny (uh I mean transmission) fluid/filter/gasket from dealer as well as transfer case lube.

Have an Inch Lb tq wrench so good to go with the pan.
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Old 04-20-2022, 06:00 PM #32
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Originally Posted by 1jzgte View Post
im that idiot. I'm traumatized from my rav4 pan and filter drop. It was messy as hell and I thought I got the pan on correctly but weeks later I can still see a bit of weeping at the seams. The filter was a felpro gasket not a sealant of any sort.

Did you ever see debris in the filter itself? You've hit 300k so I'm curious what your findings were during transmission filter changes. Were the magnets covered in metal shavings each pan drop?
This last fluid change was at a 120K interval and the fluid was very clean and still cherry red. There was a slight film of grey “soot” in the pan and on the magnets placed in the pan, but there has never been any filings. Pan and magnets cleaned up with a paper towel. Could use brake cleaner for cleaning here. Definitely use brake cleaner on the sealing surfaces.

Funny, the thing that spooks me is the filling at temp process. Never have been able to do the jump the OBD II pins to get the temp thing set. I just replaced the amount that came out when dropping the pan, then let the the truck idle for 15 to 20 minutes and called it good and started the exchange process at 2 quarts per time and add 2 quarts. Would help to have a 2nd person here starting and stopping the truck on command. Wives typically not good here.

Usually you keep repeating the pumping process until the fluid is clear, but it was hard to tell the last time because the fluid was already clear. So I did the pump cycles until I used up 11 or 12 quarts, then checked the fluid level by removing that plug. Added fluid until it poured out and waited until it slowed to a dribble to reinstall that plug. Checked it a second time after driving it, letting it cool down and then bringing it back to temp at a 15 to 20 minute idle. Really these damn thing should have a transmission temp send that you could read off an OBD II scanner.

Using the $10 Home Depot garden spray bottle rigged up to pump the ATF fluid in makes this job so easy (search for thread here) and clean.

Last edited by CutthroatSlam; 04-20-2022 at 06:04 PM.
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Old 04-20-2022, 08:00 PM #33
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Draining pan and removing it are very easy. Done quite a few different vehicles.
The only car I never did drain and fills was my 01 CRV. 230000 miles, still going okay...
But, with the 4runner, I would imagine its better to be on safe side especially if towing and or off roading allot as it will break the fluid down quicker..
Filling it in the 4runner looks a little bit of a pain, but with a hand pump, shouldnt take long.
What is the recommended fluid? Synthetic or Not?
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Old 04-20-2022, 09:18 PM #34
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Originally Posted by Steve40th396 View Post
What is the recommended fluid? Synthetic or Not?
Beginner Fluid Maintenance

Go ahead and bookmark that.. or it's in the stickies
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Old 04-20-2022, 09:41 PM #35
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve40th396 View Post
Draining pan and removing it are very easy. Done quite a few different vehicles.
The only car I never did drain and fills was my 01 CRV. 230000 miles, still going okay...
But, with the 4runner, I would imagine its better to be on safe side especially if towing and or off roading allot as it will break the fluid down quicker..
Filling it in the 4runner looks a little bit of a pain, but with a hand pump, shouldnt take long.
What is the recommended fluid? Synthetic or Not?
I’m using Valvoline Maxlife Synthetic.
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Old 04-20-2022, 11:38 PM #36
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If the manufacturer does not EXPLICITLY recommend a transmission fluid flush, I'd never do it. Ever. As far as I know, Toyota does not explicitly recommend a flush for the 4Runner.
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Old 04-20-2022, 11:44 PM #37
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Steve40th396 View Post
Draining pan and removing it are very easy. Done quite a few different vehicles.
The only car I never did drain and fills was my 01 CRV. 230000 miles, still going okay...
But, with the 4runner, I would imagine its better to be on safe side especially if towing and or off roading allot as it will break the fluid down quicker..
Filling it in the 4runner looks a little bit of a pain, but with a hand pump, shouldnt take long.
What is the recommended fluid? Synthetic or Not?
steer clear of toyota WS as it is not synthetic.. i've had maxlife in for 25k but if i dont sell the 4runner anytime soon, i've got quarts of idemitsu tls-lv ready to go. The Idemitsu viscosity is much closer to Toyota WS than maxlife. Don't quote me on these numbers: Maxlife is a tad thicker viscosity at 6.xx and Idemitsu is around 5.3 and a blackstone analysis tested Toyota WS around 5.3ish as well.. too lazy to source all that right now but its out there.

Idemitsu is the thinnest i could find that's synthetic and Toyota WS approved.. methinks that's why i cant make it past 18.5 mpg these days on a stock ass 4runner
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Old 04-20-2022, 11:53 PM #38
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CutthroatSlam View Post
This last fluid change was at a 120K interval and the fluid was very clean and still cherry red. There was a slight film of grey “soot” in the pan and on the magnets placed in the pan, but there has never been any filings. Pan and magnets cleaned up with a paper towel. Could use brake cleaner for cleaning here. Definitely use brake cleaner on the sealing surfaces.

Funny, the thing that spooks me is the filling at temp process. Never have been able to do the jump the OBD II pins to get the temp thing set. I just replaced the amount that came out when dropping the pan, then let the the truck idle for 15 to 20 minutes and called it good and started the exchange process at 2 quarts per time and add 2 quarts. Would help to have a 2nd person here starting and stopping the truck on command. Wives typically not good here.

Usually you keep repeating the pumping process until the fluid is clear, but it was hard to tell the last time because the fluid was already clear. So I did the pump cycles until I used up 11 or 12 quarts, then checked the fluid level by removing that plug. Added fluid until it poured out and waited until it slowed to a dribble to reinstall that plug. Checked it a second time after driving it, letting it cool down and then bringing it back to temp at a 15 to 20 minute idle. Really these damn thing should have a transmission temp send that you could read off an OBD II scanner.

Using the $10 Home Depot garden spray bottle rigged up to pump the ATF fluid in makes this job so easy (search for thread here) and clean.
Another question 300k - 120k ago.. so you havent changed ATF for 180k? What ATF are you using and when do you plan to do your next atf exchange? Take pics of the fluid will ya? Please make a new thread when it happens.
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Old 04-21-2022, 05:47 AM #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 1jzgte View Post
steer clear of toyota WS as it is not synthetic.. i've had maxlife in for 25k but if i dont sell the 4runner anytime soon, i've got quarts of idemitsu tls-lv ready to go. The Idemitsu viscosity is much closer to Toyota WS than maxlife. Don't quote me on these numbers: Maxlife is a tad thicker viscosity at 6.xx and Idemitsu is around 5.3 and a blackstone analysis tested Toyota WS around 5.3ish as well.. too lazy to source all that right now but its out there.

Idemitsu is the thinnest i could find that's synthetic and Toyota WS approved.. methinks that's why i cant make it past 18.5 mpg these days on a stock ass 4runner
This the same "Brand" that people were saying you can use in my Honda. Never did, but here it is on Amazon.
Is it required to have WS version of Idemitsu?
Amazon.com: Idemitsu ATF Type TLS (T-IV) Automatic Transmission Fluid for Toyota/Lexus/Scion - 1 Quart : Automotive
Or this
Amazon.com: Idemitsu ATF Type TLS-LV (WS) Automatic Transmission Fluid for Toyota, Lexus, Scion - 5QT : Automotive

Last edited by Steve40th396; 04-21-2022 at 05:50 AM.
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Old 04-21-2022, 12:35 PM #40
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This the same "Brand" that people were saying you can use in my Honda. Never did, but here it is on Amazon.
Is it required to have WS version of Idemitsu?
Amazon.com: Idemitsu ATF Type TLS (T-IV) Automatic Transmission Fluid for Toyota/Lexus/Scion - 1 Quart : Automotive
Or this
Amazon.com: Idemitsu ATF Type TLS-LV (WS) Automatic Transmission Fluid for Toyota, Lexus, Scion - 5QT : Automotive
dont trust amazon's compatibility system

The Trusted Choice of Leading Automakers Worldwide | Idemitsu Lubricants plug in your vehicle and it'll tell you to use TLS-LV
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Old 04-21-2022, 12:39 PM #41
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Another question 300k - 120k ago.. so you havent changed ATF for 180k? What ATF are you using and when do you plan to do your next atf exchange? Take pics of the fluid will ya? Please make a new thread when it happens.
No I last change the transmission fluid at 240K miles. So, if I go to 60K intervals, I am due shortly.
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Old 04-21-2022, 02:58 PM #42
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dont trust amazon's compatibility system

The Trusted Choice of Leading Automakers Worldwide | Idemitsu Lubricants plug in your vehicle and it'll tell you to use TLS-LV
Understand. It was the Honda forums telling me it was the same as the Honda fluid you buy at the dealership.
As far as the 4runner, TLS-LV.. Okay.. I will check your link out. Thnx.
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Old 04-22-2022, 02:24 AM #43
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I really don't see the point of replacing the screen element vs. just cleaning it honestly. I can't say we do it regularly though; most of the the failed transmissions I have replaced or had the pan off to inspect didn't have horribly clogged filters to the point that it restricts flow significantly.

I don't think Toyota has really used a paper style transmission filter in their transmissions for a while, almost all the ones I've seen have been a fine mesh screen. You can usually remove them and spray them out with brake clean and blow them clean, though as I mentioned I haven't seen any really badly clogged before.

You'll always see a lot of gunk on the magnets, even on a new properly operating transmission; so don't get too freaked out when you drop the pan. But make sure the magnets go back in the same spots they were in and that when you torque the pan back on you try to "criss-cross" your tightening pattern, it will help the pan seat more evenly and hopefully not leak.

Post Note-

I'm still hesitant to recommend anything other than the factory fluid, a lot of companies like to say "certified by Toyota or Asin" but, there's no real proof of said certifications nor do I recall seeing any documentation from Toyota regarding approved/certified WS alternatives (if you do have that document I'd love it for my own reference!). Also have never seen a definitive breakdown of what their additive packages vs. what WS additive packages are (hell I still can't find a definitive breakdown of what exactly WS is made of and what additives it has in it). My cautious skepticism aside, WS ATF has been around long enough that I would imagine companies like Amsoil, Valvoline, and Idemitsu could have made fluids comparable enough to it and plenty of people have beta-tested it for them, so I'm a little less knee-jerk about people wanting to use them than I was years ago; though I still stand by if you don't know what it is, you probably can't tell what to swap it out with.

Last edited by BlackWorksInc; 04-22-2022 at 02:35 AM.
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Old 04-22-2022, 05:39 AM #44
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So my wifes 2018 Rav4 with 10000 miles is due for a transmission fuid change next year because its five years old? My 2019 4runner has 9000 miles so far and will need a transmission fluid change in 2024?Geesh!
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Old 04-22-2022, 08:11 AM #45
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I really don't see the point of replacing the screen element vs. just cleaning it honestly. I can't say we do it regularly though; most of the the failed transmissions I have replaced or had the pan off to inspect didn't have horribly clogged filters to the point that it restricts flow significantly.

I don't think Toyota has really used a paper style transmission filter in their transmissions for a while, almost all the ones I've seen have been a fine mesh screen. You can usually remove them and spray them out with brake clean and blow them clean, though as I mentioned I haven't seen any really badly clogged before.

You'll always see a lot of gunk on the magnets, even on a new properly operating transmission; so don't get too freaked out when you drop the pan. But make sure the magnets go back in the same spots they were in and that when you torque the pan back on you try to "criss-cross" your tightening pattern, it will help the pan seat more evenly and hopefully not leak.

Post Note-

I'm still hesitant to recommend anything other than the factory fluid, a lot of companies like to say "certified by Toyota or Asin" but, there's no real proof of said certifications nor do I recall seeing any documentation from Toyota regarding approved/certified WS alternatives (if you do have that document I'd love it for my own reference!). Also have never seen a definitive breakdown of what their additive packages vs. what WS additive packages are (hell I still can't find a definitive breakdown of what exactly WS is made of and what additives it has in it). My cautious skepticism aside, WS ATF has been around long enough that I would imagine companies like Amsoil, Valvoline, and Idemitsu could have made fluids comparable enough to it and plenty of people have beta-tested it for them, so I'm a little less knee-jerk about people wanting to use them than I was years ago; though I still stand by if you don't know what it is, you probably can't tell what to swap it out with.
Valvoline MAXLIFE certifed by CuttThroatSlam's 4runner w/ 300k
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