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Old 07-22-2022, 03:28 PM #1
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Cargo "base plate" system?

I already have a carpeted leveling platform that I made so it's flat to sleep in, but now I'm starting to see more benefit from a "base plate" system, mainly for the option of enhanced tie-down points.

I'm aware of goose gear and AJC - are there others?

I'm also tempted to do it myself since I don't really need a special pre-drilled layout of tie-down points for certain gear.

Anyone know what material these platforms are? Are they just like 1/2" plywood with raptor liner or something sprayed on? And t-nut threaded holes?

Or is there more to it?
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Old 07-23-2022, 05:13 PM #2
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Plywood or MDF
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Old 07-23-2022, 06:36 PM #3
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Originally Posted by 97BlackAckCL View Post
Plywood or MDF
And how to secure it? I've heard if you didn't have the sliding cargo tray you have to drill holes in the frame? Not interested in that! But also since the baseplate sits so low, I can't really imagine tying it into the 4 factory tie-down points.
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Old 07-24-2022, 12:21 PM #4
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And how to secure it? I've heard if you didn't have the sliding cargo tray you have to drill holes in the frame? Not interested in that! But also since the baseplate sits so low, I can't really imagine tying it into the 4 factory tie-down points.
A lot of people use the tie down locations and bolt to those
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Old 07-24-2022, 01:18 PM #5
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaitlyn2004 View Post

Anyone know what material these platforms are? Are they just like 1/2" plywood with raptor liner or something sprayed on? And t-nut threaded holes?

Or is there more to it?
Baltic birch or marine-grade plywood, cut to exacting fit.
Drilled, t-nutted, then raptor-lined/line-x’d.

The forward hold downs are behind the rear seats - you take off the rear bevelled area and the holes line up with what held that down. The rear hardware ties into the rear tie downs and trim panels.

That’s it- totally doable if you have tools, time and skills. Go for it! For us the price was worth it because we needed to buy it, install it and be ready for an active wheeling season and AJC was great to deal with.
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Old 07-25-2022, 03:37 PM #6
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I've used two DIY. Both same basic idea. Here's the latest:



Has a pull out shelf on either side.

The l-track is easy to use to tie down fridge, battery, boxes with gear, etc. Plus it's level with the back, so sleeping.



The first one I covered with LineX which was a mistake as even 6 months in, it stank a bit. So I went with some polyurethane on the second one and just cut an exercise mat to fit that I leave in there when I'm not off road.



It uses the 4 factory tie down spots. Completely reversible.





I got the idea from others on the forum ... so it's a tried-and-true practice.

It is 3/4 Baltic birch.
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Old 07-25-2022, 05:24 PM #7
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Nice work ^, that looks great and very functional.
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Old 07-25-2022, 07:51 PM #8
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rageandlove View Post
I've used two DIY. Both same basic idea. Here's the latest:



Has a pull out shelf on either side.

The l-track is easy to use to tie down fridge, battery, boxes with gear, etc. Plus it's level with the back, so sleeping.



The first one I covered with LineX which was a mistake as even 6 months in, it stank a bit. So I went with some polyurethane on the second one and just cut an exercise mat to fit that I leave in there when I'm not off road.



It uses the 4 factory tie down spots. Completely reversible.





I got the idea from others on the forum ... so it's a tried-and-true practice.

It is 3/4 Baltic birch.
Never used l-track but I think I like the idea apart from randomly placing holes with t-nuts. You say the track is flush with the board, but does the track "snag" items? Or is it a very smooth-edge finished material?
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Old 07-25-2022, 09:07 PM #9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by kaitlyn2004 View Post
Never used l-track but I think I like the idea apart from randomly placing holes with t-nuts. You say the track is flush with the board, but does the track "snag" items? Or is it a very smooth-edge finished material?
Hi not sure what you mean by "randomly placing holes with t-nuts." The l-track is screwed into the platform, and the you use tie-downs like these ...



... which can be put in any spot in the l-track in about 2 seconds. So you can move around tie-down points super quickly on the track. I like it because the number of boxes etc. I take depends upon the trip, so it's very flexible with this set up.

The l-track is from US Cargo Control and it's smooth on all sides and I've had no problems snagging. Can't vouch for other manufacturers.

I thought about adding a slide on one side for the fridge but I use the truck to carry other things so didn't bother and it's been great - no problems accessing stuff in the fridge.
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Old 07-28-2022, 08:40 AM #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rageandlove View Post
I've used two DIY. Both same basic idea. Here's the latest:


Has a pull out shelf on either side.

The l-track is easy to use to tie down fridge, battery, boxes with gear, etc. Plus it's level with the back, so sleeping.


The first one I covered with LineX which was a mistake as even 6 months in, it stank a bit. So I went with some polyurethane on the second one and just cut an exercise mat to fit that I leave in there when I'm not off road.


It uses the 4 factory tie down spots. Completely reversible.


I got the idea from others on the forum ... so it's a tried-and-true practice.

It is 3/4 Baltic birch.
I need to figure out how to make one this nice. I really like your design and build quality. How is the slideout table secured? I could not find any heavy duty locking slides that would fit under the sleeping platform.
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Old 07-29-2022, 07:34 AM #11
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Originally Posted by jdm-v35 View Post
I need to figure out how to make one this nice. I really like your design and build quality. How is the slideout table secured? I could not find any heavy duty locking slides that would fit under the sleeping platform.
I built a platform almost exactly like “rageandlove” did. I only have one l-track running down the middle though but I have another one at the front of the platform. . And I agree, my diy ‘line-x’ stunk for months, so if I had to do it over, I would carpet it also.
I used the factory tiedowns. For placement of holes in the platform, I bought 4 extra bolts, cut the heads off, sharpened them to a point and screwed them in. I then laid the platform on top of them exactly where I wanted it, and then hit the platform at those points with a mallet which punched a little hole exactly where I needed to drill the holes for the tiedown points. Worked perfectly.
I have two slideouts of 1/2” Baltic birch. No metal sliders, just wood tracks friction fit. On the right side I mounted a DFG Offroad brand fridge slider for my Dometic CFX-35.
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Old 07-29-2022, 10:52 AM #12
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I built a platform almost exactly like “rageandlove” did. I only have one l-track running down the middle though but I have another one at the front of the platform. . And I agree, my diy ‘line-x’ stunk for months, so if I had to do it over, I would carpet it also.
I used the factory tiedowns. For placement of holes in the platform, I bought 4 extra bolts, cut the heads off, sharpened them to a point and screwed them in. I then laid the platform on top of them exactly where I wanted it, and then hit the platform at those points with a mallet which punched a little hole exactly where I needed to drill the holes for the tiedown points. Worked perfectly.
I have two slideouts of 1/2” Baltic birch. No metal sliders, just wood tracks friction fit. On the right side I mounted a DFG Offroad brand fridge slider for my Dometic CFX-35.
thanks for the detailed info. I have a carpeted leveling platform I made and have my fridge slide currently mounted to but one day I really want to make something nice like these as I use the 4runner all the time for camping, fishing and hunting so it would be really nice to get the most utility I can out of it.
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Old 07-29-2022, 11:59 AM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by BlakeA View Post
For placement of holes in the platform, I bought 4 extra bolts, cut the heads off, sharpened them to a point and screwed them in. I then laid the platform on top of them exactly where I wanted it, and then hit the platform at those points with a mallet which punched a little hole exactly where I needed to drill the holes for the tiedown points.
I wish I had have thought of that. My approach was much more hassle and less accurate lol.

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No metal sliders, just wood tracks friction fit.
Yup. I used some thin felt pads to give it the right amount of friction and prevent rattling. Optional but was a nice touch.
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Old 07-30-2023, 01:09 AM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rageandlove View Post
I've used two DIY. Both same basic idea. Here's the latest:







Has a pull out shelf on either side.



The l-track is easy to use to tie down fridge, battery, boxes with gear, etc. Plus it's level with the back, so sleeping.







The first one I covered with LineX which was a mistake as even 6 months in, it stank a bit. So I went with some polyurethane on the second one and just cut an exercise mat to fit that I leave in there when I'm not off road.







It uses the 4 factory tie down spots. Completely reversible.











I got the idea from others on the forum ... so it's a tried-and-true practice.



It is 3/4 Baltic birch.
Do you have your plate dimensions you could share or a drawing? Great work on the cargo plate

Sent from my SM-S908U using Tapatalk
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Old 11-11-2023, 10:43 PM #15
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rageandlove View Post
I've used two DIY. Both same basic idea. Here's the latest:



Has a pull out shelf on either side.

The l-track is easy to use to tie down fridge, battery, boxes with gear, etc. Plus it's level with the back, so sleeping.



The first one I covered with LineX which was a mistake as even 6 months in, it stank a bit. So I went with some polyurethane on the second one and just cut an exercise mat to fit that I leave in there when I'm not off road.



It uses the 4 factory tie down spots. Completely reversible.





I got the idea from others on the forum ... so it's a tried-and-true practice.

It is 3/4 Baltic birch.

This looks amaizng! I would buy the DXF from you if you used a cnc router to cut the wood. Wondering if I can get it printed with sendcutsend and it'll be cheaper than just buying
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