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Old 06-18-2023, 01:19 PM #1
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2014 SR5 Test Run

My wife’s 2014 SR5 up at our Montana ranch. Hadn’t driven it in awhile, so my wife wanted her mechanic to drive it. Did a 150+ mile loop over Skalkaho Pass to fish Rock Creek from the top down. Heavy rain year and Rock Creek road was muddy and full of potholes. Feel like I’m still cleaning the mud off.

My wife names her 4Runners and this one is “Priscilla”. Her brand new ORP in Lunarock is name “Basel”. Anyhow, Priscilla is clocking 331.5K miles and running strong. Only issue is a persistence sheet mettle rattle when the road is wash board. I’ve tried to find this previously, but really need to get it on a rack to tap around. I know it’s none of the skid plates. More like a. Shield.

I was also doing some fishing recon as I have a guest coming this week. He’s looking for a home for retirement and we will be fishing.
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2014 SR5 Test Run-img_4165-jpeg  2014 SR5 Test Run-img_4166-jpeg  2014 SR5 Test Run-img_4149-jpg  2014 SR5 Test Run-img_4158-jpg 
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Old 06-18-2023, 01:34 PM #2
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Right on. I love seeing high odometer numbers on these things.
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Old 06-19-2023, 09:53 AM #3
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I had a sneaky sheet metal rattle last month too. It was hard to find because it was very intermittent, almost random. It was that L shape heat shield above the exhaust. corroded around the nut, dropped down and got wedged between some components back there and only on the exact right road conditions it would make a sound and was barely out of place. PIA to remove and reinstall without a lift but I just used some thick aluminum stock as washers and re attached
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Old 06-20-2023, 10:22 AM #4
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I had a sneaky sheet metal rattle last month too. It was hard to find because it was very intermittent, almost random. It was that L shape heat shield above the exhaust. corroded around the nut, dropped down and got wedged between some components back there and only on the exact right road conditions it would make a sound and was barely out of place. PIA to remove and reinstall without a lift but I just used some thick aluminum stock as washers and re attached
Is this towards the front of the vehicle where the two exhausts come down off the engine or towards the back?

I was just under the truck lubing the driveshafts and check for rattles on the shields and could not find it. What I did find is that the rear steel skid plate with oil drain cover has a resonating noise when I bang on it, but nothing is loose.

Also, noted that I have a leak on the input seal of the transfer case. I just rebuilt a transfer case to replace one with the same leak on a ‘94 Suburban K2500 my son gave me. I won’t need to rebuild this transfer case, just replace the seal. Will need to find a how to video on pulling the transfer case out.
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Old 06-20-2023, 10:35 AM #5
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Is this towards the front of the vehicle where the two exhausts come down off the engine or towards the back?

I was just under the truck lubing the driveshafts and check for rattles on the shields and could not find it. What I did find is that the rear steel skid plate with oil drain cover has a resonating noise when I bang on it, but nothing is loose.

Also, noted that I have a leak on the input seal of the transfer case. I just rebuilt a transfer case to replace one with the same leak on a ‘94 Suburban K2500 my son gave me. I won’t need to rebuild this transfer case, just replace the seal. Will need to find a how to video on pulling the transfer case out.
towards the rear of the vehicle. if you start at the tail pipe and work from back to front you will see it. I haven't seen any videos on the 5G 4runner transfer case removal but timmy has one for the 3G, it should give you a good idea , and I'm sure with your knowledge you can fill in any gaps

Toyota 4Runner Auto Transmission Replacement (Part 1 of 3) - YouTube
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Old 06-20-2023, 10:58 AM #6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CutthroatSlam View Post
My wife’s 2014 SR5 up at our Montana ranch. Hadn’t driven it in awhile, so my wife wanted her mechanic to drive it. Did a 150+ mile loop over Skalkaho Pass to fish Rock Creek from the top down. Heavy rain year and Rock Creek road was muddy and full of potholes. Feel like I’m still cleaning the mud off.

My wife names her 4Runners and this one is “Priscilla”. Her brand new ORP in Lunarock is name “Basel”. Anyhow, Priscilla is clocking 331.5K miles and running strong. Only issue is a persistence sheet mettle rattle when the road is wash board. I’ve tried to find this previously, but really need to get it on a rack to tap around. I know it’s none of the skid plates. More like a. Shield.

I was also doing some fishing recon as I have a guest coming this week. He’s looking for a home for retirement and we will be fishing.
Awesome! Can you share what you have done maintenance and parts replacement wise?
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Old 06-20-2023, 12:11 PM #7
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OK, I’m pretty sure it’s the skid plate with the engine oil drain cover:

4R Rattle - YouTube

I will pull it down for inspection. Thinking of placing rubber washers on the bolts between the plate and the mounting holes.
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Old 06-20-2023, 12:26 PM #8
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Quote:
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Awesome! Can you share what you have done maintenance and parts replacement wise?
Maintenance is pretty standard fluid changes. I use Quaker State 0w20 engine oil at 10K mile intervals. Mobile Delvac synthetic 75w90 in the transfer case, and Mobile synthetic LS 75w90 in the rear axle and front differential at 50K mile intervals. Valvoline synthetic ATF in transmission, full fluid exchange, every 50K miles. You can probably sense I’m not a believer in the OEM fluid fear.

Brakes I use Raybestos Slotted rotors and ceramic pads.

Parts replacement:

OEM shocks were shot at 80K and were replaced with Bilstein 5100s which are still going.

Inner and outer tie rods replaced in the quest to address the 60 mph shimmy.

Engine air valve on driver’s side had the internal flap or vane break when removing to replace spark plugs. How it happened, I do not know, but I heard the rattle inside and took it apart. Replaced it with new Toyota OEM part.

Alternator went out at 319K miles last December. Ordered new Toyota OEM alternator online for $326 plus shipping when Dealer wanted $525 for the part. Installed that myself.

Staring at this leaking input seal on the transfer case, but it is not an urgent project. It is now a second car though she is still driving it long distances. I will plan this project out for when she has it down at our SoCal home, in between my work on my Suburbans and home projects.

Last edited by CutthroatSlam; 06-20-2023 at 08:45 PM.
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Old 06-20-2023, 03:56 PM #9
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OK, I’m pretty sure it’s the skid plate with the engine oil drain cover:

4R Rattle - YouTube

I will pull it down for inspection. Thinking of placing rubber washers on the bolts between the plate and the mounting holes.
IVe found my skid plates (all RCI either steel or beercan) all seem to come lose slowly while driving resulting in some minor resonating with the usual...bzz vibrations. Maybe its the anti seize that causes the M8 caps to back off. I dunno, the factory torque is low for these bolts. I have tried abit tighter but thats about it.

IF you get washers maybe go with VITON types as they can take heat upwards of 600F for limited times or many thousands or hours at heat of 450F. THeres PTFE but it can break down alittle above 600F. LIkely your probably less than 250F on the plates due to air flow and distance from hot bits... but considering how stupid cheap viton is.. why not!

Check out McMaster Carr if you need any specialty type washers.


Hey how long out of interest has your factory battery lasted with all those miles? Or did you change it out already? Im still on my original Panasonic for my mY2016 Runner with reasonable CCA left so battery is alittle over 7 years old now.
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Old 06-20-2023, 08:42 PM #10
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IVe found my skid plates (all RCI either steel or beercan) all seem to come lose slowly while driving resulting in some minor resonating with the usual...bzz vibrations. Maybe its the anti seize that causes the M8 caps to back off. I dunno, the factory torque is low for these bolts. I have tried abit tighter but thats about it.

IF you get washers maybe go with VITON types as they can take heat upwards of 600F for limited times or many thousands or hours at heat of 450F. THeres PTFE but it can break down alittle above 600F. LIkely your probably less than 250F on the plates due to air flow and distance from hot bits... but considering how stupid cheap viton is.. why not!

Check out McMaster Carr if you need any specialty type washers.


Hey how long out of interest has your factory battery lasted with all those miles? Or did you change it out already? Im still on my original Panasonic for my mY2016 Runner with reasonable CCA left so battery is alittle over 7 years old now.
Priscilla is on her 4th battery. They get a lot of use and I change them out the moment they show slow cranking issues. Can’t have my wife stranded, though she does carry. Using Everlast batteries from Walmart, so nothing special.

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Old 06-21-2023, 10:20 AM #11
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Priscilla is on her 4th battery. They get a lot of use and I change them out the moment they show slow cranking issues. Can’t have my wife stranded, though she does carry. Using Everlast batteries from Walmart, so nothing special.
ya I never leave home without my spare battery just in case!
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Old 06-21-2023, 03:06 PM #12
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ya I never leave home without my spare battery just in case!
anybody get over 8 years on the factory Panasonic? mine will hit 8 soon.
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Old 06-21-2023, 03:10 PM #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by CutthroatSlam View Post
Maintenance is pretty standard fluid changes. I use Quaker State 0w20 engine oil at 10K mile intervals. Mobile Delvac synthetic 75w90 in the transfer case, and Mobile synthetic LS 75w90 in the rear axle and front differential at 50K mile intervals. Valvoline synthetic ATF in transmission, full fluid exchange, every 50K miles. You can probably sense I’m not a believer in the OEM fluid fear.

Brakes I use Raybestos Slotted rotors and ceramic pads.

Parts replacement:

OEM shocks were shot at 80K and were replaced with Bilstein 5100s which are still going.

Inner and outer tie rods replaced in the quest to address the 60 mph shimmy.

Engine air valve on driver’s side had the internal flap or vane break when removing to replace spark plugs. How it happened, I do not know, but I heard the rattle inside and took it apart. Replaced it with new Toyota OEM part.

Alternator went out at 319K miles last December. Ordered new Toyota OEM alternator online for $326 plus shipping when Dealer wanted $525 for the part. Installed that myself.

Staring at this leaking input seal on the transfer case, but it is not an urgent project. It is now a second car though she is still driving it long distances. I will plan this project out for when she has it down at our SoCal home, in between my work on my Suburbans and home projects.
Thanks! How long do you get out of those brake pads/rotors usually?
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Old 06-21-2023, 03:58 PM #14
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anybody get over 8 years on the factory Panasonic? mine will hit 8 soon.
mine made it to 5 years, 150,000 km
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Old 06-21-2023, 05:33 PM #15
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mine made it to 5 years, 150,000 km
Im outside of Hamilton, you in the area?
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