09-05-2018, 11:56 PM
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Sound Deadening Advice
After reading several threads on sound deadening I posted the below question, but it was a 4th gens thread and I only received one response. Reposting here to see if anyone with a 5th Gen has thoughts:
Question for those that have installed their own sound deadening:
What are the pros or cons of doing the install over several days/weeks in 2 hour blocks?
I'm planning on doing the doors and tailgate, potentially the rear panels in the cargo area. Not likely the roof or floor.
I'm weighing the cost of having a stereo shop do the install or doing it myself. It doesn't seem technically complex (although as this and the threads note, there are a few watch outs). The big downside of DIY seems to be time required to do the job.
This vehicle is my daily driver so, realistically I could work on it for two hours a night. Maybe I could eek out 3-4 hours on a weekend, but with kids it won't likely be more than that. I'm wondering if it's practical to approach it like this or if I'm going to end up taking off a door panel and being cramped for install time. Obviously, the 2 hr time isn't an absolute hard cut off, but that would be ideal.
Any insight or advice the group can give is greatly appreciated.
Thanks!
Original post/thread: http://http://www.toyota-4runner.org...o-setup-4.html
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09-06-2018, 12:48 AM
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#2
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Depends on what you are doing for sound reduction. Are you just installing CLD (like Dynomat) or are you going full out by adding closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl?
If you are just doing CLD, it pretty easy to do in sections. You get quicker as you go. I can do a full door from start to finish in under 30 minutes including cleaning.
The tailgate takes longer as you are working at weird angles and a larger surface.
The rear panels will depend on if you are willing to drive with a partially assembled vehicle. You could try doing a section then putting it back together, but I find it easier to tear out the whole thing, install the sound reduction then reinstall it all. The back could take you 4 to 8 hours or more.
Mine took about 2 weeks along with a stereo install. I did all 3 layers.
But i gutted the interior and did everything.
You can see some of the work here if interested Tiggers Install
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09-06-2018, 01:54 AM
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#3
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I lined the doors in my cruiser with Noico sound deadener. Taking the interior panels off is the hardest part. As an amateur, I’d probably not do it again. It’s not hard but is enough of a hassle where I’d just have an audio shop do it, if it’s within your budget. I’d probably save up and have some nicer speakers, amp, and equalizer put in at the same time.
I went that route with my last 5th gen and it was all done in a few hours. Stereo sound was hugely improved, even without a sub. Just find a good audio shop who won’t jack up your wiring with the install, plenty of good ones out there, but also lots of bad ones, so you gotta do your research. Just my experience.
Last edited by JSparky; 09-06-2018 at 01:54 AM.
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09-06-2018, 10:37 AM
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#4
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Those of you who have used sound deadening on the roof (and other parts of the vehicle), how did that help to decrease on wind/road noise?
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09-06-2018, 11:38 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigger
Depends on what you are doing for sound reduction. Are you just installing CLD (like Dynomat)
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I did this on my 4 doors and it's not hard at all. The hardest part is getting the door panel back on. Still need to add it to my rear hatch.
Quote:
or are you going full out by adding closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl?
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I tried doing this as well on one door but couldn't get the panel back on so I had to rip everything off. Also, the MLV was a pain to work with and keep on the door. I gave up and threw it all away.
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09-06-2018, 06:50 PM
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#6
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Quote:
Originally Posted by tigger
Depends on what you are doing for sound reduction. Are you just installing CLD (like Dynomat) or are you going full out by adding closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl?
If you are just doing CLD, it pretty easy to do in sections. You get quicker as you go. I can do a full door from start to finish in under 30 minutes including cleaning.
The tailgate takes longer as you are working at weird angles and a larger surface.
The rear panels will depend on if you are willing to drive with a partially assembled vehicle. You could try doing a section then putting it back together, but I find it easier to tear out the whole thing, install the sound reduction then reinstall it all. The back could take you 4 to 8 hours or more.
Mine took about 2 weeks along with a stereo install. I did all 3 layers.
But i gutted the interior and did everything.
You can see some of the work here if interested Tiggers Install
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Tigger - It seems like if I'm going to go to the trouble of doing the cargo area over the wheel wells, I might as well do the floor. From the pics on your thread it seems like the carpet would come up pretty easy once I had the side panels off. Am I missing anything?
Thanks!
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09-06-2018, 07:02 PM
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#7
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Did mine top to bottom. Made a huge difference.
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09-06-2018, 08:22 PM
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#8
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Don't take the wife or girlfriend = sound deadening.
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09-06-2018, 08:48 PM
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#9
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DreamsOfDirt
Tigger - It seems like if I'm going to go to the trouble of doing the cargo area over the wheel wells, I might as well do the floor. From the pics on your thread it seems like the carpet would come up pretty easy once I had the side panels off. Am I missing anything?
Thanks!
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There is very little else to remove to get the carpet out. Mainly just the bridge between the rear and back seat (2 row only, third row vehicles will be different)
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09-06-2018, 09:30 PM
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#10
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Curious myself what the typical total weight is after a full job like this is done.
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09-06-2018, 09:59 PM
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#11
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I did the entire floor and sides (not ceiling) from under the front seats all the way back.
Having the right tools, a ratchet set and pry tool is key. The hard part isn't putting in the sound deadening, its getting everything out of the car.
I highly recommend doing it all at once. Start with removing panels from the very back and work your way forward.
I put down both the dynamat equivalent and a sound barrier. The sound barrier was a little tricky because you have to cut it away in certain places to get everything back in place.
I also put a new sub and wired an amp while I was at it. I should have also ran a always on 12v but didn't.
If you remove the front seats or unplug them, unplug your battery.
I need to do the doors but that's it. The floor in the front already has factory sound deadening so limited benefits to adding more there.
I noticed a good amount of road noise reduction and better audio.
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09-06-2018, 10:02 PM
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#12
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Would add if you haven't done this before. Give yourself at least 6 full hours to take everything out of the car. Apply the sound deadening and then put everything back.
This is one of those things that once you do it you could don't faster the 2nd time, probably 4 hours.
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09-06-2018, 10:04 PM
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#13
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This should take a lot more than 6 hours to do right. You need a hard plastic roller, you absolutely must use the roller to form the deadening material to the sheet metal panel. If you don't and there are voids between the material and metal, the whole thing is pointless. As for additional weight, about 250 pounds of material to do the whole truck top to bottom with a quality product.
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09-06-2018, 10:06 PM
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#14
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Ah and don't use crap from Home Depot, use materials made to be used in cars and designed to be used as a sound deadener.
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2016 4RUNNER SR5 PURCHASED NEW JANUARY 29TH 2017 - OEM FJ TRD PRO SUSPENSION WITH 3/8 CORNFED TOP HAT SPACERS & 1" PRELOAD SPACER FOR A TOTAL OF 2.5" FRONT LIFT, 2" CORNFED SPACERS IN THE BACK (I'M A DEALER FOR CORNFED SUSPENSION), FX PRO WHEELS, 295/70/17 MICKEY THOMPSON ATZ P3, WEATHER PACKAGE, NAVIGATION, LED INTERIOR LIGHTS, AFE PRO DRY AIR FILTER, BORLA MUFFLER, TYGER SLIDER STEPS, BLACKOUT EMBLEM KIT, TRD PRO GRILL, POLY FRONT AND REAR SWAY BAR BUSHINGS, OEM 3RD GEN REAR SWAY BAR LINKS, REAR DIFF BREATHER MOD, OEM ALUMINUM OIL FILTER HOUSING UPGRADE, OIL CATCH CAN.
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07-17-2020, 03:28 PM
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#15
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I know this is an older thread but 250 pounds of material carrying around. How much did your MPG drop? Was it worth it in the end? Contemplating on doing this but questioning how much this will improve sound.
Maybe as a compromise, I only do the doors?
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