My 2010 has 230,000 miles on it so I can’t really be too upset about this, but it’s still a pita and a potential expense if you can’t fix it yourself.

This wasn’t something I wanted to put a lot of time and money into as the rest of the exhaust is on it’s last leg. After thinking about it for a bit I decided to go the band clamp route.

There was a few things to take into consideration here:
I didn’t want to remove the muffler and open that can O worms. All the flanges on this system are corroded pretty badly and the odds of getting them to seal again was pretty low.

I also didn’t want to weld on it because I didn’t want to disconnect the battery for a few simple reasons. I know you can hypothetically leave it connected if you have your clamp close the welding area, but being as how yotas are sensitive flowers, I rather not tempt fate.

Anyway, this was pretty simple. I was able to get the tailpipe out with just jacking up the rear and lowering the rear end. From here I cut off the flange end with an angle grinder and cut off wheel (death wheel) and hit it with a flapper.

Cutting off the flange on the muffler side was a bit more difficult and I had to drop the spare tire.

PSA - If you live in the salt belt, you might want to drop your spare and assess the corrosion. Seriously, you might not want ignore it and “hope” it’s fine. It’s ugly, and I get seasonal treatments of fluidfilm.

Anyway, the end of the tailpipe is flared out to 2.5”, but the pipe on the muffler side is about 2.35” so you might be better off with a reduction band clamp if they make a 2.5” to 2.25” ?
I was able to make it work by coiling up some 308L tig wire and wrapping it around the 2.35” making the diameter about 2.48”.

Added on the high temp RTV and slam it all together. Worked like a charm. Total cost $16 for the clamp and about two hours of my time in the driveway (garage was taken).

The interesting thing to me was there is very little sound difference with the tailpipe on or off. All I heard was some vibrating and I honestly thought it was a heat shield. So check that corrosion from time to time.

It looks like there is a gap at the top of the flange, but the pipe flared out and is very well tight in the clamp. This is a Band-Aid till I decide what to do come next spring. I did wire brush and treat the bulk of the rust with POR15 today.

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