The last poly bushings I installed required grease and even provided a small packet of said grease. I believe it was silicone based grease.

Do you know if grease is required here and was applied by installer?

thank you, and you said it more succinctly than me.

poly can be great in something like a sway bar or shock mount.

in a pillow-ball or control arm mount, you definitely need to be careful of bind, and aware that they'll likely wear out far quicker than a fresh rubber bushing. for off-road use i would never consider them, personally.

They Stongflex bushings that are on there came with a packet of silicone grease. I didn't do the install, but I'll assume they used it.

I'm going with no grease and 150+ lbs. ft of torque on those bushings.

Basically made it a solid upper link on the axle side with no up/down or flex. Metal finally gave at the weakest part.

Make sure you watch or trust your installers, lol.

Good luck out there!

You added the Strongflex bushings prior to the upper links that broke? If so, I would question the install as DigitalVex mentioned.

Yeah I think that's it. The bushings have been on for about three years. I'm going to pull the old ones off tonight and I'll get a better look. New ones arriving tomorrow

Exactly, this. Both sides failing after installing these bushings is no coincidence.

Let the record show I was the first one to suggest this and was quickly shot down

no grease on poly? it wouldve squeaked like crazy. and to last 3 years? idk. could've been a freak thing. and nobody did anything wrong (except maybe poor driver mod) lol

Good point - she’d be a squeaker.

Didn’t see the 3 years comment until now.

But to his point, the significantly stiffer poly bushings will increase the peak and average stress in the rods. Maybe enough so to push them past the fatigue limit.

I would go back to stock bushings and rods or stay poly and acquire more robust rods.

Ok got the UCA's off last night. The more rear bolts on both were very rusted but but came free without any drama. The forward bolts were easy to remove and had much less rust. I doubt they put a torque wrench on them but I also wouldn't say they were way over torqued. (Spec is 59#) All joint were able to be removed by hand without any tools and had reasonably good movement. I doubt they weren't greased at all, however they weren't greased how I would have done it. (As was said earlier if they weren't greased they woulda squeaked like crazy.)In their defense the packet of grease that came with them was relatively small. Let's remember these were on for 3 years, this wasn't an install the bushings and instant snap scenario.
From the looks of the snapped area of the arms it appears one snapped then the other gave at a later time. The arms themselves do not appear to have been in contact with anything causing them to snap. I'm not experienced with welds so I'll let someone else analyze that but the ends of both appear pretty flat to me, so maybe the weld gave? I think the idea that the installer over heated the arms removing the old bushings is at least a strong contributing factor if not the sole reason.

I attached pictures as well

Attached Images

       

If anyone knows the part number for the bolts I would appreciate the help. The forward bolts are different than the rear bolts. When I look in the Toyota parts catalog this doesn't seem to be the case. It's possible the installer swapped out the bolts.


The only bolt part number I can find is 90119-14040
The nut I think is 90178-A0058


EDIT:
I think I need the following parts:
90119-14040 2each for mount to axle
90105-12340 2 each for mount to frame

90178-A0058 not sure about this, definitely 2 of these maybe


Thanks in advance

Yes, the bolts are definitely not threaded all the way to the head, the other bolts are correct.

Thanks, yeah I was thinking they might've cut the old ones off

this reaffirms my comment....buy one aftermarket upper with upgraded heims. and see how it feels. you wont have to worry about contacting the fuel tank at full droop ;)

since it looks like one broke a while before the other one.

i DO NOT recommend buying from PRG as his customer service is absolutely atrocious BUT, he knows suspension.
FJ/4 RunnerGX470 4-Link KitThis is our 4-link Fj and 4 Runner rear link kit. This kit elliminates the driver's side upper link and is 100% direct bolt-on. No need to drill out holes or run custom bolts. Because our bearings do not have slop like rubber or urethane, there is no binding at all through the full range of movement. Zero side deflection, zero axle wrap and 100% free movement vertiacally and through full articulation. Becasue we use no urethane, there are no squeaks either and no messy zerk fittings. The lower links are 1.75" dia x .120 wall DOM (.250 wall on request and for more $$), the upper link is 1"x .250 wall and the panhard is 1.25" x .250 wall. The upper and panhard bar use left and right hand threads to make adjustments super easy, but we do send these out adjusted to the stock dimensions so you can simply bolt them on and be on your way. The lower links use FK 1" teflon-lined uniballs and FK 1x1.25" 3-pc teflon-lined heims in right hand thread (all of the bearings (heims) we use are NOT the shitty 2-pc Chinese heims that most offroad shops use. If someone says Heims are noisey, they use garbage bearings...GOOD heims are quiet). The upper link and panhard use FK 3/4 3-pc telon-lined heims. All the bearings are readily availble through many vendors, as well as us, should you need replacement parts in the future.Tubes are shown in RED but can also be plated in BLACK. Typical build time is about 10-15 working days. Why a 3 link and panhard vs 4 link and panhard...simple...it works better. The factory uses soft rubber bushings and a sway bar, there is a certain amount of "bind" built in to the OEM geometry...those bushings are also really cheap. Switching to this style of geometry has ZERO bind in the full usable range of movement and this allows for less stress on all the chassis mounting points as well as more life from the bearings. It simply costs more to do this. And any aftermarket 4-link w pahard bar kit that uses bearings at any pivot point is hurting the chassis and decresing flex and ride quality. | PRGProducts.Com
for the lazies who wont click a link .....


""Why a 3 link and panhard vs 4 link and panhard...simple...it works better. The factory uses soft rubber bushings and a sway bar, there is a certain amount of "bind" built in to the OEM geometry...those bushings are also really cheap. Switching to this style of geometry has ZERO bind in the full usable range of movement and this allows for less stress on all the chassis mounting points as well as more life from the bearings. It simply costs more to do this. And any aftermarket 4-link w pahard bar kit that uses bearings at any pivot point is hurting the chassis and decresing flex and ride quality.""

edit: wow that URL is weird