11-30-2023, 11:34 AM
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#91
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Castle Rock, CO
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Castle Rock, CO
Posts: 781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comtn4x4
I didn't do any qualitative comparison so definitively I can't say. Seat of my pants, it seems to flex a bit better but it could be in my mind.
As far as upgrading the upper arms goes, I seem to be the only person to ever destroy their upper links on a 5th gen so I'm not sure it's worth the $. It has been said that they don't endure much stress. The lower arms I personally think it's best to wait till they get bent (If they do). But I'm a break it then upgrade it kind of guy.
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I am trying to be proactive if possible especially after my experience this past week and the scare of being stranded with no reception and 70 miles from the nearest civilization and >300 miles from home. If you saw my other thread about TB failure, I am feeling even more cautious. I also have bent a front alignment cam tab already and hammered it back and got an alignment again. I have the marlin crawler cam tab reinforcements and RCI rear link skids in the garage waiting to be welded in once I have time as well.
I have learned that being prepared has helped. I also had to change my friend's alternator out there in the forest and luckily we carry full tool sets to do so.
I do have a garmin messenger in case, but a tow would probably cost way more than proactively buying the parts. Even for just the uhaul and trailer it cost me $400 to tow myself home from Craig.
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2018 TRD ORP w/ Magnuson
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12-01-2023, 02:01 PM
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#92
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: phoenix
Posts: 2,312
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Join Date: Feb 2016
Location: phoenix
Posts: 2,312
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comtn4x4
I have been running just the passenger side arm consistently since early spring. I went back and forth only passenger and both a couple times to see if I could tell a difference and there's no notable difference I could identify. As
@ honda250xtitan
suggested going with the passenger side only seems to be a good way to go. That being said I am running a significantly upgraded UCA with Heim joint, not sure how that would compare to the OEM UCA.
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thats good to hear. I wouldnt run OEM arms with just 3 of the links.
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2016 TE : Grocery Getter, 34/10.5R17 Toyo at3, Prinsu Rack, King Coilovers, DuroBumps, ToyTec HD 2.0 springs, King shocks, King hydro bumps, Total Chaos mounts, DirtKing Fabrication UCA, VIVID RACING Tune, URD Y pipe, RCI skids, Marlin Crawler gussets, DRKDSS everything
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04-29-2024, 07:01 AM
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#93
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Castle Rock, CO
Posts: 781
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Castle Rock, CO
Posts: 781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comtn4x4
I didn't do any qualitative comparison so definitively I can't say. Seat of my pants, it seems to flex a bit better but it could be in my mind.
As far as upgrading the upper arms goes, I seem to be the only person to ever destroy their upper links on a 5th gen so I'm not sure it's worth the $. It has been said that they don't endure much stress. The lower arms I personally think it's best to wait till they get bent (If they do). But I'm a break it then upgrade it kind of guy.
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Wanted to follow up and see how the single arm thing is working out so far? any advantages/disadvantages? I Just did my lower arms and replaced with metaltech, and have the metaltech uppers to put in, just debating if I should put in both or just the single one.
Just replacing the lowers the OEM seem way flimsier than I would have thought, for the size they look. They were relatively light when off the car. The metaltech Lower arms are about 2x the diameter and 4-5x the weight.
I had the new arm sitting around for a few months and glad i finally had time to install them as it seems to be a significant strength upgrade. Can't wait to do the uppers!
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2018 TRD ORP w/ Magnuson
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04-29-2024, 09:35 AM
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#94
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 1,041
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Denver, Colorado
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm-v35
Wanted to follow up and see how the single arm thing is working out so far? any advantages/disadvantages? I Just did my lower arms and replaced with metaltech, and have the metaltech uppers to put in, just debating if I should put in both or just the single one.
Just replacing the lowers the OEM seem way flimsier than I would have thought, for the size they look. They were relatively light when off the car. The metaltech Lower arms are about 2x the diameter and 4-5x the weight.
I had the new arm sitting around for a few months and glad i finally had time to install them as it seems to be a significant strength upgrade. Can't wait to do the uppers!
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Still running single arm and having no issues. That being said I didn't have issues I was aware of before other than destroying the stock arms. I see no reason to hold back on running one arm only. As far as advantages/disadvantages, theoretically the driver side arm could hit the gas tank at full droop so you are eliminating that possibility. I don't see any evidence of that happening in 11 years/150K miles.
As far as the lower arms go, the issue I had was bending them, so a beefier arm is a great upgrade. I'd get some armor on the frame mount as well. Metaltech is a great company, highly recommend their stuff.
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'13 TE w/ KDSS, 4:56 Gears, Dobinson's IMS C59-352/C59-701V, Sonoran Steel KDSS Trac Bar, Overland Custom Design Control Arms. Fuel Revolver 17x9 +1 mm 5" Backspace, Falken Wildpeak A/t3w 285/75r17, Hefty Fabworks Aluminum Front Bumper and Full Skids, C4 Fab Dual Swingout Rear Bumper, MetalTech OPOR Sliders, Northstar, Off-Grid Engineering, SPod, Blue Sea, Rigid, Baja Designs, KC HiLites, Stedi, Aplharex, National Luna, Drifta, Goose Gear, RAD Rubber Designs, Viair, Bandi Mount, URD, Gobi, ARB, Warn, Factor 55, Fourtreks, Axia Alloys, Desert Does It, Agency 6
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04-29-2024, 10:14 AM
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#95
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Member
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Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Castle Rock, CO
Posts: 781
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2018
Location: Castle Rock, CO
Posts: 781
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Quote:
Originally Posted by comtn4x4
Still running single arm and having no issues. That being said I didn't have issues I was aware of before other than destroying the stock arms. I see no reason to hold back on running one arm only. As far as advantages/disadvantages, theoretically the driver side arm could hit the gas tank at full droop so you are eliminating that possibility. I don't see any evidence of that happening in 11 years/150K miles.
As far as the lower arms go, the issue I had was bending them, so a beefier arm is a great upgrade. I'd get some armor on the frame mount as well. Metaltech is a great company, highly recommend their stuff.
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Thanks for the info! good to know it is still holding up fine. I did notice that the driver side does get close to the gas tank and with how thick the metaltech arm is, it would be cutting it very close since I have their rear LT kit.
I do have the RCI rear mount skids, but haven't put them on because it looks like with the thick metaltech lower arms they may hit on full droop. What skids are you running and any issues with fitment like that?
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2018 TRD ORP w/ Magnuson
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04-29-2024, 11:25 AM
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#96
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Senior Member
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Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 1,041
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Senior Member
Join Date: Aug 2013
Location: Denver, Colorado
Posts: 1,041
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jdm-v35
Thanks for the info! good to know it is still holding up fine. I did notice that the driver side does get close to the gas tank and with how thick the metaltech arm is, it would be cutting it very close since I have their rear LT kit.
I do have the RCI rear mount skids, but haven't put them on because it looks like with the thick metaltech lower arms they may hit on full droop. What skids are you running and any issues with fitment like that?
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I have the Metaltech OPOR Lower Link Guards. I haven't had any issues and they've been on for about 3 years
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'13 TE w/ KDSS, 4:56 Gears, Dobinson's IMS C59-352/C59-701V, Sonoran Steel KDSS Trac Bar, Overland Custom Design Control Arms. Fuel Revolver 17x9 +1 mm 5" Backspace, Falken Wildpeak A/t3w 285/75r17, Hefty Fabworks Aluminum Front Bumper and Full Skids, C4 Fab Dual Swingout Rear Bumper, MetalTech OPOR Sliders, Northstar, Off-Grid Engineering, SPod, Blue Sea, Rigid, Baja Designs, KC HiLites, Stedi, Aplharex, National Luna, Drifta, Goose Gear, RAD Rubber Designs, Viair, Bandi Mount, URD, Gobi, ARB, Warn, Factor 55, Fourtreks, Axia Alloys, Desert Does It, Agency 6
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