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Old 10-16-2022, 12:33 PM #1
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Both Rear Upper Control Arms Sheared off? WTF!

Like the title says, truck started making some weird noises/shudders this morning so I got underneath and found both the OEM rear UCA's sheared off at the rear pivot. I was under the impression these didn't usually have issues? 120,000 miles FWIW and upgraded bushings probably 40,000 miles ago.

So two questions here:
Safe to drive? There's a definite driveline shudder from a stop then it settles down.And some suspension noises unsurprisingly.

And of course replacements? I'd prefer to stay low maintenance so probably not a Heim joint. I already replaced the lowers and the trac bar so a kit won't be needed. Oh and in stock would be mandatory obviously.

I see OEM for $90 (Each I think)

Moog for $298
Icon for $400
Dobinson's for $305
Total Chaos $687
Metal Tech $375


Who's replaced these and what route did you go?
Anything else I should be looking at while I'm in there?
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Old 10-16-2022, 02:43 PM #2
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Personally never seen this. I only upgraded mine because it came as a set from Resz Fab (now out of business). I was only looking to upgrade my lowers since those tend to bend when wheeling. Their price for the poly set was great but their customer service and lead times were TERRIBLE. Sonoran Steel even suggests just to upgrade the bushings on the stock uppers rather than buying aftermarket ones.

If I were to do it all over again, i probably go with either Dobinson (they also have offset uppers) or Metaltech (proven).

I regularly check the bolts on my suspension because on several occasions I have found them to come loose, including the uppers. I assume it would be safe to drive short distances but I personally wouldn’t risk it with it completely sheared…

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Old 10-16-2022, 03:03 PM #3
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Personally never seen this. I only upgraded mine because it came as a set from Resz Fab (now out of business). I was only looking to upgrade my lowers since those tend to bend when wheeling. Their price for the poly set was great but their customer service and lead times were TERRIBLE. Sonoran Steel even suggests just to upgrade the bushings on the stock uppers rather than buying aftermarket ones.

If I were to do it all over again, i probably go with either Dobinson (they also have offset uppers) or Metaltech (proven).

I regularly check the bolts on my suspension because on several occasions I have found them to come loose, including the uppers. I assume it would be safe to drive short distances but I personally wouldn’t risk it with it completely sheared…

Yeah I was thinking the same about driving. I'd like to go Metaltech too but they're out of stock I realized.

Overland Custom Design uppers look relay solid and a reasonable price and in stock too. Plus @MStudt is a user here.
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Old 10-16-2022, 04:33 PM #4
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I run metal tech and a buddy runs BuiltRight Fabrications upper and lower rear links.

Both are good to go.

I went with metal tech because its reasonably priced. Nothing negative to say.

I think metal tech makes to order, so it took about a month to receive mine.

I'd get whatever is in stock so you don't have too much down time.
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Old 10-16-2022, 04:51 PM #5
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I would be curious what in the parts or the use or combo thereof may have caused this before I choose replacement.

Maybe I should inspect mine cause we have not been gentle to the truck in the desert. Could the tire weight have been a factor? At 66lb yours are much heavier than stock but then again everybody runs 55-65lb tires so...no idea, just thinking aloud.

If there is no obvious reason to worry, I would go OEM given the prices but if there is a significant difference from OEM specs maybe not....
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Old 10-16-2022, 05:59 PM #6
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I would be curious what in the parts or the use or combo thereof may have caused this before I choose replacement.

Maybe I should inspect mine cause we have not been gentle to the truck in the desert. Could the tire weight have been a factor? At 66lb yours are much heavier than stock but then again everybody runs 55-65lb tires so...no idea, just thinking aloud.

If there is no obvious reason to worry, I would go OEM given the prices but if there is a significant difference from OEM specs maybe not....

This is my question/concern as well. Their doesn't seem to be a lot of instances of these failing so IDK. I was wondering if the bushing seized on one? But to have both go seems odd. I don't think I run any bigger/heavier than anyone else. Actually I'm pretty sure it's the opposite. I also don't think I push my truck too awful hard but maybe I'm wrong. I wonder if when I bent my rear lower control arm it damaged the weld on that side. It was quite bent, probably an inch or so. I'll get a better look at them when I take them out.

I did notice the ends of both arms aren't rusted so they must have sheared off relatively close time wise.

As far as the OEM goes it would definitely be cheaper to go that route and after all they did last 120,000 miles. However, I did notice a big difference when I upgraded the bushings on all the rear links. Much smoother travel.

I'm leaning towards the Overland Custom Design arms. Look very solid. Might even change my lower arms to those too.
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Old 10-16-2022, 05:45 PM #7
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I run metal tech and a buddy runs BuiltRight Fabrications upper and lower rear links.

Both are good to go.

I went with metal tech because its reasonably priced. Nothing negative to say.

I think metal tech makes to order, so it took about a month to receive mine.

I'd get whatever is in stock so you don't have too much down time.

Yeah I've had good luck with other Metal Tech stuff but waiting is a no go. I checked out BuiltRight and they don't even list 4Runners on their site, only Toyota was Tacoma. Must not make them any more
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Old 10-16-2022, 11:04 PM #8
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Yeah I've had good luck with other Metal Tech stuff but waiting is a no go. I checked out BuiltRight and they don't even list 4Runners on their site, only Toyota was Tacoma. Must not make them any more
give BuiltRight a call. They don't update their website often since most of their business is local peeps like myself.

I think they make their links in chromoly, which is a step up from metal tech...but double check with them.
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Old 10-17-2022, 09:48 AM #9
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Like the title says, truck started making some weird noises/shudders this morning so I got underneath and found both the OEM rear UCA's sheared off at the rear pivot. I was under the impression these didn't usually have issues? 120,000 miles FWIW and upgraded bushings probably 40,000 miles ago.
There is definitely something going on here. Maybe those upgraded bushings were too stiff and eventually fatigued the OEM links to the point of failure? I'd personally would just go OEM with stock bushings as a fix for this.
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Old 10-17-2022, 11:10 AM #10
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There is definitely something going on here. Maybe those upgraded bushings were too stiff and eventually fatigued the OEM links to the point of failure? I'd personally would just go OEM with stock bushings as a fix for this.

I agree the bushings seem to be the only difference from OEM. I'll investigate and report back
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Old 10-17-2022, 11:24 AM #11
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Can't imagine the bushings you used had anything to do with your failure. Those bushings are designed to allow rotation type movement whereas the stock bushings are clamped solidly in place and movement is by torsionally twisting the rubber inside the steel bushing cup.
How did you remove your old bushings? Did you use heat in your removal process? If so, you could have used too much and caused metallurgical damage to the arms since the picture shows the failure appears to be at the weld.
Just a thought.
I bought some new OEM style upper arms for my '03 and cut the bushings out and installed Super Pro bushings, so I didn't use any heat.
So far so good, but I don't off road.
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Old 10-17-2022, 11:36 AM #12
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Rockauto
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$36 each.

Arms were thicker than oem on the set i installed on my 4th gen.
Couple years, no issues.
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Old 10-17-2022, 11:38 AM #13
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Can't imagine the bushings you used had anything to do with your failure. Those bushings are designed to allow rotation type movement whereas the stock bushings are clamped solidly in place and movement is by torsionally twisting the rubber inside the steel bushing cup.
How did you remove your old bushings? Did you use heat in your removal process? If so, you could have used too much and caused metallurgical damage to the arms since the picture shows the failure appears to be at the weld.
Just a thought.
I bought some new OEM style upper arms for my '03 and cut the bushings out and installed Super Pro bushings, so I didn't use any heat.
So far so good, but I don't off road.

I think you're onto something here. I didn't do the bushings myself, I had a shop do them. I seem to remember they had a hard time getting the old ones out. I don't remember if they said they used heat or not but it seems likely. It was about three years ago so it's a bit fuzzy
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Old 10-17-2022, 11:48 AM #14
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Holy hell. I'm gonna have to go crawl under my truck and look at mine now lol

You got any pictures of the other side showing where the weld broke off?
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