I have 2019 ORP, and daily drive it with similar use criteria as the OP.

I can’t recommend the Eibach lift highly enough. I used the factory springs on the top perch to get 2.5” of lift in the fron and use the Eibach springs in the back for a 1” lift there. You should be able to get the whole kit or piecemeal for less than a grand and have plenty left for the install with a $1,700 budget. You will need to find an alignment shop that deals with lifted vehicles as the “factory” alignment specs don’t work with a lifted truck. My shop couldn’t get enough castor to get 3 degrees with the factory UCA’s, but it doesn’t feel unstable at highway speeds either. Many folks report good castor though, so YMMV.

It sits almost level with a very slight forward rake.

It sags to level when fully loaded for a San Diego beach trip.

It soaks up speed humps way better than the factory suspension.

As many report, it drives more truck-like, but in a good way.

It has less nosedive under braking.

I've looked at this too but I want to maintain the factory rake so....

If you plan to wheel then extended bump stops are a good idea, but still not necessary. For general driving or gravel roads, it's not necessary at all.
I'm running Timbren bump stops front and rear on my lifted 5th gen and it made an improvement when hitting large potholes or sudden bumps offroad, but certainly weren't necessary.

I have a lifted TRD Offroad with OME Nitrocharger shocks and OME Medium Springs front/rear. When I'm running around unloaded, meaning no RTT, no rear drawers and no camping gear, it rides rough. The Medium springs are meant to always have added weight on them.

Your otherwise stock Limited would ride nicely on OME stock capacity springs (2884 Front/2889 Rear). You likely won't feel much difference between Bilstein, OME, Etc shocks for your daily driving so buy what fits your budget.

Are you planning to run oversize tires on 17" wheels or factory 265/70R17? If you're plan is to run factory size, that lift will look a little weird.

I'm running LT285/70R17 on the same lift and it almost looks small compared to some. Offset also makes a big difference.

Given what you say in your original post regarding usage, you definitely won't be needing extended brake lines. They only come into play if you plan to have your suspension fully drooped out over obstacles on a frequent basis. I off road pretty often and still don't even have extended brake lines myself.

Also... i need to learn to use multi quote replys. haha

Use your factory springs on a lower perch…

I'm split on what to get. I just want a good ride on the road, not worried about off road performance. I would like these but they're almost certainly overkill and can get Dobinsons IMS for 1 grand less. Probably the Dobinsons are overkill as well, but I will be very upset with a stiff and unforgiving ride.

This is the other way I was looking at it but OME shocks because I've always heard that 5100's look like crap after a year where they use a ton of salt on the roads in the winter (like...here).

My debate has been which springs. I can see myself adding a gas tank skid pretty early and maybe sliders but probably not the small front bumper for a while. gas skid and sliders are gonna add around 180# but split between front and back. (bumper will add another 80 or so until I also add a winch, at which point the next step up for coils is probably where I would want to be).

hate to end up having to swap springs later but they're not super expensive.

planning on 275/70R17's before I drive it off the lot (yeah, I'm on hold until a TRD ORP shows up in a color that isn't claimed by someone ahead of me...)

If skid plates and sliders are the only weight you're gonna have extra, i'd run stock capacity springs. When I say i'm running around "empty" its with full skid plates front to rear and steel sliders, roof rack, roof mounted case, recovery gear and a well stocked emergency kit. So the weight of a gas tank skid and sliders won't affect stock capacity springs at all.

Both Bilstein 5100 and OME Nitro shocks are steel body and will develop surface rust. My OME's are already rusting on the surface (2 years in Alberta). A coating of fluid film sprayed on them a few times a year would likely slow that process down. Most entry level shocks will rust eventually. I'm personally not worried about it, as I'm not concerned about vanity, it's a trail build that I keep stock enough to daily drive.

I'm in a similar boat to yourself, needing to change springs eventually as I add more weight. I'll just be switching from medium to heavy springs once i've got a full rear bumper with tire carrier installed, my cargo drawers installed and also put my RTT back up top.

Dobinson makes a very solid product and I know several people that are extremely happy with their setups (mostly on Tacoma's). Spring rate will be the main factor in ride quality. Stock spring rate will give you a ride that is very close to factory, but with a little less body roll or nose dive. Dobinsons also gives you several choices of lift with stock spring rates, which is nice.

what color do you like the most? go with that brand. in that price range theyre all going to be solid shocks for your use. Bilstein will be digressive so a bit stiffer on the small choppy stuff. But theyre tried and proven. I enjoyed my wheelers t13 springs (1.5" rear lift) only a 12% increase in spring rate over stock.

Durobumps are FANTASTIC. i would absolutely not run timbrens but thats just me. durobumps allow full compression and do not limit up travel prematurely.