[Jedrattle]

Thanks for posting your build. I have a ‘22 ORP as well and I’m just starting to do a mild build. I really like the switch panel and lights. I appreciate the stereo stuff. I can’t stand the stereo in this thing. I want an amp and a sub in the worst way but adding that stuff is a pain to add and expensive. That setup will be a nice starting step.

[TRD PANTHER]

Originally Posted by hoppyjr

Friday’s project included three new items and one “swing and a miss”.

The mod that didn’t work out was the new ScanGauge 3. While it is feature packed, I found more negatives than positives, so it went back. Among the negatives; no auto display dimming, only digital gauges, poor mounting options.

The stuff that worked out well:

- WeatherTech hood protector / bug deflector

- WeatherTech side window deflectors

- TRD Pro style front skid plate. This one is the version for KDSS, from CarHomeTrim.

All the WeatherTech parts went on quick and easy - and the quality is evident. I’m pleased.

The skid is also much nicer than expected, being thick, sturdy, and apparently well made. It did require I remove the plastic shield that goes between the stock front skid and bumper. I plan to trim that piece and reinstall later. I like that this skid has an access panel, eliminating the need to remove the full skid for oil changes.

Here are some updated photos, taken today.

Does the CarHomeTrim skid come with an access panel for oil changes? Is it a flat or satin black?

[hoppyjr]

Originally Posted by TRD PANTHER

Does the CarHomeTrim skid come with an access panel for oil changes? Is it a flat or satin black?

Yes to oil access panel.

Hard to say from memory but it looked flat powdercoat black to me.

[hoppyjr]

Originally Posted by Jedrattle

Thanks for posting your build. I have a ‘22 ORP as well and I’m just starting to do a mild build. I really like the switch panel and lights. I appreciate the stereo stuff. I can’t stand the stereo in this thing. I want an amp and a sub in the worst way but adding that stuff is a pain to add and expensive. That setup will be a nice starting step.

I only wanted to upgrade speakers, so I went with Trail Grid Pro. After ordering I also found OEMAudioPlus has a package that appears to be a direct speaker swap.

The differences:

The TGP kit was $558 delivered. It includes all 8 speakers, using components for front door / dash, then coaxial units in rear doors and hatch. They include everything, adapter rings, hardware, wiring adapters. Plug & Play.

The OEMAudio kit appears also Plug & Play and it’s $649. From the photos it appears to be custom made for the vehicle, rather than using adapter rings, although I’m not certain of that. They components in front door / dash, but use woofers in rear doors and coaxials in hatch. I obviously can’t say how they sound.

While I like the concept of custom fit stuff, I prefer the idea of coaxial in rear doors to have the added brightness of those small tweeters.

In any case, my cargo cover stays closed and I have stuff in the back, so the hatch speakers matter less to me as they are often somewhat obstructed.

The OEMAudio people also offer a kit that include a 360w amp, interface module, the aforementioned speaker kit, and all plug & play wiring harnesses. It’s $1399 and more than I wanted to put into audio for this vehicle, but you may find it a good solution since you want an amp. The company claims it’s using DSP and they pre-tune it specifically for the 4Runner, even down to the upholstery (in our case Softex).

I hope this helps.

Hoppy

[Jedrattle]

Thank you for that info! Most of my other vehicles have big stereos. My ram has 13.5 sub between to front seats, so I like some power in my stereo systems, if possible.

[hoppyjr]

Having decided I’m too young for running boards…. those suckers came off and will be on OfferUp soon.

I don’t need sliders, as I’ll never take the 4Runner anywhere that would require such protection.

Here’s a shot of the dirty Toyota without the boards.

[hoppyjr]

Visited my friends shop, where he did a couple things for me.

Mounted my KC LED Slimlights back on the front bumper, but this time hanging from the center of the heritage grille. My friend made some metal backing plates, which provide stability from the inside of the bumper, behind the “TOYOTA”

The angle of the second shot is misleading, as they don’t stick out as far as the lower bumper does.

Prior mounting to bumper resulted in extremely limited adjustability, rendering them ineffective. This new hanging mount allows plenty of adjustment and I think even looks better.

Wired to my last open circuit on the SwitchPro controller.

Also installed the Redarc Elite trailer brake controller, but the Toyota sized switch insert doesn’t arrive until Sunday.

[LunarORP]

This is looking great, any plans for engine mods or is it enough for you?

[hoppyjr]

Originally Posted by LunarORP

This is looking great, any plans for engine mods or is it enough for you?

Thanks very much.

I’m fine with the stock performance…..and reliability.

[hoppyjr]

Cleaned her up today for some photos.

Latest updates:

Reinstalled the Toyota Trail Running Boards. While they get in my way, my passengers aren’t as tall and they find the steps helpful. I do think it adds a more finished look, and they help protect against door dings from cars, so there’s that.

Aimed the KC Slimlight LED spots, now hanging from the center of the heritage grille. Perfect.


Photos:



Notice how the front parking lights and rear turn signals are clear when off, eliminating the “egg yolk” appearance that exists with stock bulbs.




Added a shot to show the side profile of the grill spot lights.



Reconfigured the Switch-Pro controller to accurately reflect current accessories.

Redarc Tow-Pro Elite controller is installed and the switch is filling a blank on the left of dash.

Installed a couple Mob Armor mounts; one for the GMRS microphone and one for the passenger cell phone.








Next on the list: under hood lighting, using the KC HiLites Cyclone universal kit. The remaining lower left dash blank will be used to control these, using an OEM style push button switch. Since the switch is 3amp rated and these lights are only 5w each, I don’t think I’ll use a relay but I will fuse them.


I do have the TRD Pro black hood scoop at home, but still not sure if I should install it. Opinions welcome…..


Eventually the battery will get swapped with an AGM, but there is nothing else I want or need for my intended use.

Hoppy

[hoppyjr]

Todays update:

We installed the KC Cyclone under hood light kit. I used the same location as Kelly & Trevor from “Adventure Built” did (Ultimate Under Hood Work Light on 5th Gen Toyota 4Runner - KC HiLites Cyclone LED Light - YouTube)

These are great lights and using the same mounting location and push pins, it was very straightforward. I did tuck the wires in through the holes, keeping it cleaner and still had room for the pins.

Mine are wired to a lighted dash switch, located in the lower left switch blank on the dash. They are running off the battery with a 3a fuse, so available without ignition. (the kit comes with a simple weatherproof toggle, designed to be mounted under the hood near the battery).

I absolutely recommend this kit.









Next up, I found the Mob Armor “Mobnetic” mount was having trouble supporting my GMRS microphone. The adhesive disc kept coming off the dash, so the solution was to copy what I did for the cell phone mount, as detailed in a prior post. The only difference is we fabricated a 1” ball mounting plate for the Magnetic Mic brand attachment device. Works like it was factory.

It’s now secure and super handy. I’m happy.







Final thing for today, the OEM Toyota TRD Pro black hood bulge. Done.





*** One item I forgot to mention before: seat comfort…

I’m 6’3” and one of the other reasons I hesitated in buying a Gen5 4Runner was seat comfort. I found a noticeable lack of lower leg support and was concerned about longer drives like that. A bit of internet research took me to many many positive reviews of the Seat Jackers by Desert Does It, out of Nevada.

Bottom line: do this mod. I did on both front seats and it’s truly amazing. The stock drivers tilt function was not enough, but with the Seat Jackers it’s really nice, and I did 5 hours with no issue. My front seat passenger also finds the angle comfortable. I learned of this prior to purchase and I’m glad they worked as well as I hoped.



While I’m sure there will other little things that will be added along the way, this now completes everything I set out to achieve with this build.

Thanks for following along. If I can offer any assistance please PM me, I’ll be glad to help.

Hoppy

[TRD PANTHER]

You have done some things that I have been considering. I’m 6’3 also, and have been contemplating the seat jackers. If I decide to switch to a black TRD style skid plate I might go to the CTH one you installed. The under hood lights also. How do you like your KC lights? Are they spot or driving? SAE compliant? Your rig is shaping up, now for the dirt.

[hoppyjr]

Originally Posted by TRD PANTHER

You have done some things that I have been considering. I’m 6’3 also, and have been contemplating the seat jackers. If I decide to switch to a black TRD style skid plate I might go to the CTH one you installed. The under hood lights also. How do you like your KC lights? Are they spot or driving? SAE compliant? Your rig is shaping up, now for the dirt.

Thanks very much. It’ll get dirty this summer for sure.

The KC Slimlight LED is more of a spot pattern, but is designed to also throw light in front of and around the main beam. For the current mounting location and intended use - to fill in the void straight ahead - they work well. Not sure if SAE compliant, but I’ve never been stopped about lighting; the key is knowing when to use them and being aimed well.

If I were recommending lighting mods, I’d start by losing the DRL and adding supplemental high beams, as that’s a noticeable upgrade that can be used daily. If your rig has LED low & high projectors, you could do as I did. If you have halogen DRL / high beams, VLEDS makes a plug and play kit that gives you dimmed led DRL and superb led high beams.

Thanks,

Hoppy

[hoppyjr]

I just realized there were little things I left out of the thread….

* Remote Start :

One Pro feature I did want was remote start. The solution was found on Amazon, with a Start-X plug & play remote start kit. Install was simple, but required some trim & glove box disassembly. Took about an hour and no wires cut or tapped. Three clicks of the remote lock button is all it takes to start or stop the vehicle.

The negative is, like most factory systems, this one turns off when you open the door. I’ve learned to live with this, especially since it was less than $200. In the future I may consider a different system, one that remains on when you enter and has app functionality. I’ve had good luck in the past with Compustar products.

* Organization

Some inexpensive center console and glove box organizers, also from Amazon, make it so everything has its place.

* Carista app

While the 2022 has many customizable features in the settings menu, the Carista all offers added functionality. Some might enjoy the “all windows down” when you hold the remote unlock button. Lots to choose from. I used it to disable the annoying seat belt chime. The seat belt light still comes on, but the sound is gone.

[hoppyjr]

In a somewhat disappointing turn of events, the Bluetooth function of my Switch-Pros 9100 module has died.

The phone tech support was excellent, but it seems the module / panel must go back for diagnosis.

I’m not thrilled, but if it’s a one time thing then I’ll live with it.