User Tag List

Reply
 
Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
Old 11-21-2022, 02:39 PM #16
Turfboy Turfboy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Boise
Posts: 156
Turfboy will become famous soon enough
Turfboy Turfboy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Boise
Posts: 156
Turfboy will become famous soon enough
Quote:
Originally Posted by rdruss View Post
I thought you weren't able to get a wrench on the shaft of shock when tightening down 19mm nylock nut, or were you able to put enough pressure upward on shock to get enough shaft through the bushings?
I used a clamp on the rubber bushing to bind the shaft. The bind allowed me to overcome the resistance generated by the nylock washer. Once I was able to get a few more turns on the nut the flat became exposed enough to use the 6mm wrench to hold it.

In other news, I found the technical service pdf for setting the height of the lower spring seat. Sadly it does not show our T4R. Am I a Prado 120, Fortuner or FJ?

https://ironman4x4.com/wp-content/up...tin_290415.pdf
__________________
2016 TEP, KDSS, ALPRO Apex Sliders, Focal IS690TOY, Old Red's Accessory Meter Display Mod , Rear Differential Breather Mod, Radium Fuel Surge Tank, URD Supercharger , Ironman FCP shocks

Last edited by Turfboy; 11-21-2022 at 09:49 PM. Reason: added content
Turfboy is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 11-24-2022, 04:24 PM #17
Turfboy Turfboy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Boise
Posts: 156
Turfboy will become famous soon enough
Turfboy Turfboy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Boise
Posts: 156
Turfboy will become famous soon enough
My installation of Ironman Foam Cell Pro (FCP) Front strut w/ Stock springs and KDSS Bushings.

Prep:
A)Remove front skid plates/shroud (first 2)
B)Build out shock: Stock height is 2 1/16 inches of thread showing on bottom (8.5 inches from center of bottom mount to bottom of spring). Set screws in place on both keeper rings and keeper rings should turn freely on shock threads, spring spacer ring and associated rubber bushing ring in place. Pull shock piston up and put washer and bottom rubber bushing on. Watch Ironman’s video on building strut for hints. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UrKvX-rHGdo Lube the strut threads with lube of choice.
C)Mark bottom of alignment cams (4 each side) with sharpie.

Steps:
1)Chock Wheels
2)Loosen Lug Nuts
3)Raise all 4 corners and use jack stands to secure vehicle in air. All tires need to be off ground.
4)Remove KDSS shield(12mm) and Mark bottom of KDSS valve bolts. Unscrew bolts 2 turns.
5)Remove 8 bolts holding KDSS sway bar in and let hang on vehicle.
6)Support Lower Control Arm with Jack (Tight is right!) Loosen/remove bottom ball joint bolts.
7)Remove center strut bolt (NOTE: the shock should NOT move down when loosening) Top flats are secured using vice grip or crescent wrench or whatever.
8)Lower jack arm that is holding Lower Control Arm slowly (strut spring pressure released)
9)Remove lower shock bolt
10)Enlist help to leverage Lower Control Arm down while you wiggle strut with or without spring out of vehicle.
11)Keep spring orientated as original (Ground Flat up). Remove old strut from spring and replace with new strut. Remember to pry old bottom bushing from stock perch. Use Ironman video on building the FCP strut for guidance. CRITICAL NOTE: The shocks are not pressurized. This creates difficulties when inserting the shock into place as ANY PRESSURE on the shock piston rod will bugger up attempts to get the shaft to properly extend through the top perch hole. It is such a PIA that I moved the spring retaining rings to the bottom of the strut in order to get the shock piston rod through the top perch with enough space to get the top bushing, washer and nut on. Screw down the top nut till it won’t turn no mo. Then adjust the spring so it is orientated correctly on top move the bottom spring retainer up against the spring and properly orientate it. Have friend put pressure down on lower LCA to get bottom of shock to line up properly, place bolt through lower shock mount along with spacing washer (if desired). Snug lower nut on bottom shock bolt. Turn the first locking ring up to hold the spring retainer in place. Have friend put pressure on LCA to generate space to raise bottom spring retainer. Continue to raise locking ring to desired height using Ironman’s dedicated tool and or Hex wrench. Bring Lower locking ring up and use friction to lock in place. Measure thread showing from bottom locking ring so you can match the other side later.
12)Place jack under LCA. Orient the bottom ball joints so the bolts will insert and engage with associated holes. Raise jack and compress strut and strut spring. Snug bolts up and torque to spec.
13)Repeat on other side.

KDSS Stabilizer bar w/ Dr. KDSS rings https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lO7H_WqiMQU&t=8s
1)Make note of orientation of existing tabs on bushings.
2) Remove front KDSS bar. At each bushing location, remove old bushing and replace with new in same orientation as old.
3)Use floor jack to raise bar into rough location. Wrestle one end mount into place using Hammer, screwdriver, vice grips and various effective cursing. On the end bushings there is a dedicated spot on the bushing to lever bushing hole up. Repeat on other side. Next added was the KDSS piston and finally the fixed stabilizer bar. Ample screwdriver pressure was used to align this last bushing up. Floor jack pressure was used to raise bar in place. See Dr. Kdss video for alignment of bushings on bar.
Finish work:
1)Put tires back on.
2)Safely lower vehicle and torque Lug nuts to spec.
3)Tighten KDSS valve bolts (2 turns)
4)Replace KDSS shield.
5)Check ride height and tighten available set screws.
6)Replace lower skid plates.

Aftermath:
Imbibe spirit of choice, asprin as needed, at least 30 min in hot tub and massage of affected body parts.
Prior front end squeak/moan is now GONE.
4 Runner now Handles like it did when new. I.e. it corners flat, no swinging back and forth etc.
Ride height is the same (no complaints from my wife).
Buy friend who loaned heated space to work in their garage a bottle of the proper liquid
Modify signature on forum and write up event.
__________________
2016 TEP, KDSS, ALPRO Apex Sliders, Focal IS690TOY, Old Red's Accessory Meter Display Mod , Rear Differential Breather Mod, Radium Fuel Surge Tank, URD Supercharger , Ironman FCP shocks
Turfboy is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 01-03-2023, 07:50 PM #18
yourfriendcasey's Avatar
yourfriendcasey yourfriendcasey is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 37
yourfriendcasey is on a distinguished road
yourfriendcasey yourfriendcasey is offline
Member
yourfriendcasey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 37
yourfriendcasey is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turfboy View Post
Got some sunshine today..... Attempted to install rear shocks.

Rear shock driver side came out ok. Terrible clearance around top bolt and the shock body spun independently of the piston rod. But hey, it is a DIY project.

Now on to the install.....FAILED.

Written instructions are very poor. Well there is a youtube channel for that eh?

Not really.. Found something re a tacoma that showed the stack build. OK got the stack built. Dang, the built stack has no bolt showing.

I removed the cover and found a bump stop under the mud guard. I see it leaves quite abit of residue on the main shaft but it will move around. Should I remove it? Tried to call Ironman USA on the weekend..... Nope tech closed, retail open.

I made an executive decision to leave the bump stop on, I pushed it down the piston rod to provide MAX area for the stack. IT Worked! sorta.

Attachment 401232

In Ironman USA videos they say to vicegrip this black nubbin and tighten down the nut. Yah about that... It just ain't gonna happen even if you grind/pound significant body work away from that top bolt. Please note the stack in the picture is loose. The problem is the nylock nut engages so early that the shaft begins to spin before there is enough area to grab/engage the shaft. As it sits on the kitchen table I can partially get a 15/64 ignition wrench on it. On the car? There is gonna be a whole lot of

Items to note: That protective cover is a PITA. Since the shock has no gas pressure you must lift the shock body up or extend the piston rod. If you grab the cover to do this it pushes the stack off the rod. You must hold it by the very bottom of the shock. If you can get the top installed then it will extend down to the lower mount.

Speaking of the lower mount. The mount is not centered and out of alignment (on purpose) Make sure you put a sharpie to the side you want facing out (when dry fitting) cause it is tough to see when you are outside on the ground looking at it.

I plan on calling Ironman USA on Monday to see if the short nubbin/long nut is a defect or they say to grid down the nylock nut. I will be sure to document it if they say to grid down the nylock.
I'm halfway through installing the rear shocks and ran in to many of the same issues as you. you mentioned that the bottom mount is not centered on purpose-- does that mean you wont need to add the washer on the bottom to get it to not hit the axle hub when articulating? I have already torqued mine down with the washer that was included with the shocks that was appropriately sized to space the shock just a bit further from the wheel hub. This worked in keeping the shock body from hitting. But if I can just rotate the shock 180 that'll be much stronger.

I'm also confused about the bushings... with the way you and I have it set up, there is nothing stopping the lower bushing from sliding further down the shaft towards the mud guard, and the mud guard can move freely up and down the shaft as well. Neither of the washers that hold the lower bushing have anything to catch on as you tighten the nut down. I could theoretically keep tightening the nut down until it reaches the end of the threads... See the picture I attached. Am I missing something here? The bushings are squished down a bit but I think thats just a little friction because of the angle its sitting at. With this set-up it seems like the nut is relying solely on the nylok to keep it from rattling off, and that's concerning... There is nothing mechanically compressing the bushings together at the mounting hole
Attached Images
Ironman Foam Cell Pro install-694480823-jpg 
__________________
05 v8 Limited - Eibach Pro Lift Kit 3.75" Front, 1.75" Rear - JBA High Caster UCAs - Coastal Offroad High Clearance Rear Bumper w/ Dual Swingarms - Toyo Open Country ATIII 285/70/17 - Bronze Raceline Clutch 17x9 Wheels - Custom Gray Raptor Liner Paint - Sony XAV-AX3000 - Front Sway Bar Delete - Extended Rear Sway Bar Links - Rear Diff Breather - RCI 1/4" Aluminum Front Skid - Cali Raised DOM Rock Sliders
yourfriendcasey is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 01-04-2023, 12:01 PM #19
yourfriendcasey's Avatar
yourfriendcasey yourfriendcasey is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 37
yourfriendcasey is on a distinguished road
yourfriendcasey yourfriendcasey is offline
Member
yourfriendcasey's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2021
Location: Los Angeles
Posts: 37
yourfriendcasey is on a distinguished road
Quote:
Originally Posted by yourfriendcasey View Post
I'm halfway through installing the rear shocks and ran in to many of the same issues as you. you mentioned that the bottom mount is not centered on purpose-- does that mean you wont need to add the washer on the bottom to get it to not hit the axle hub when articulating? I have already torqued mine down with the washer that was included with the shocks that was appropriately sized to space the shock just a bit further from the wheel hub. This worked in keeping the shock body from hitting. But if I can just rotate the shock 180 that'll be much stronger.

I'm also confused about the bushings... with the way you and I have it set up, there is nothing stopping the lower bushing from sliding further down the shaft towards the mud guard, and the mud guard can move freely up and down the shaft as well. Neither of the washers that hold the lower bushing have anything to catch on as you tighten the nut down. I could theoretically keep tightening the nut down until it reaches the end of the threads... See the picture I attached. Am I missing something here? The bushings are squished down a bit but I think thats just a little friction because of the angle its sitting at. With this set-up it seems like the nut is relying solely on the nylok to keep it from rattling off, and that's concerning... There is nothing mechanically compressing the bushings together at the mounting hole
Just to follow up, I got everything installed with no issues. Love the way these are riding so far. Thanks for your install tips OP.
__________________
05 v8 Limited - Eibach Pro Lift Kit 3.75" Front, 1.75" Rear - JBA High Caster UCAs - Coastal Offroad High Clearance Rear Bumper w/ Dual Swingarms - Toyo Open Country ATIII 285/70/17 - Bronze Raceline Clutch 17x9 Wheels - Custom Gray Raptor Liner Paint - Sony XAV-AX3000 - Front Sway Bar Delete - Extended Rear Sway Bar Links - Rear Diff Breather - RCI 1/4" Aluminum Front Skid - Cali Raised DOM Rock Sliders
yourfriendcasey is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Old 01-05-2023, 07:21 PM #20
Turfboy Turfboy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Boise
Posts: 156
Turfboy will become famous soon enough
Turfboy Turfboy is offline
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2016
Location: Boise
Posts: 156
Turfboy will become famous soon enough
Congratulations!

To add, I am very impressed with the shocks. At my kids housing complex there are some serious speed bumps and uneven pavement. Prior to the replacement I felt like I needed to engage 4WD low so the KDSS system would work.

Post shock change... PFFFT there was a speed bump? This is with 10 ply tires I still will have someone else rebuild them as I am getting too old to wrestle beefy shocks around under the car.
__________________
2016 TEP, KDSS, ALPRO Apex Sliders, Focal IS690TOY, Old Red's Accessory Meter Display Mod , Rear Differential Breather Mod, Radium Fuel Surge Tank, URD Supercharger , Ironman FCP shocks
Turfboy is offline   Reply With QuoteReply With Quote
Reply

Tags
bar , install , ironman , sku , sway

Thread Tools
Display Modes Rate This Thread
Rate This Thread:

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is On

Forum Jump

Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Ironman Foam Cell Pro RedRunner_87 5th gen T4Rs 292 09-18-2022 03:13 PM
FS: Ironman Foam Cell Pro Front/Rear setup-Seattle area vipers28 For Sale: Suspension/Wheels/Tires 2 03-31-2022 08:35 AM
Ironman 4X4 Foam Cell Pro Kit LastFrontierRunner 3rd gen T4Rs 3 12-22-2021 06:52 PM
Ironman Foam Cell Pro Gstick 5th gen T4Rs 4 11-11-2021 07:02 PM
Stage 3 Foam Cell Pro 3" Lift on TRD Pro Primo4R 5th gen T4Rs 17 12-22-2020 05:23 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.2

All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:47 PM.

Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.11
Copyright ©2000 - 2023, vBulletin Solutions Inc.
Search Engine Optimisation provided by DragonByte SEO (Pro) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2023 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
Feedback Buttons provided by Advanced Post Thanks / Like (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2023 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
User Alert System provided by Advanced User Tagging (Lite) - vBulletin Mods & Addons Copyright © 2023 DragonByte Technologies Ltd.
***This site is an unofficial Toyota site, and is not officially endorsed, supported, authorized by or affiliated with Toyota. All company, product, or service names references in this web site are used for identification purposes only and may be trademarks of their respective owners. The Toyota name, marks, designs and logos, as well as Toyota model names, are registered trademarks of Toyota Motor Corporation***Ad Management plugin by RedTyger
 
Copyright © 2020