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Old 11-18-2022, 02:15 PM #16
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replaced mine at the first oil change. the plastic will fail eventually. when is eventually? who knows.
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Old 11-18-2022, 02:33 PM #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by spartacus View Post
I bought a metal but so far the plastic housing is doing well.
X2....I'm still running the original OEM plastic housing, but I'm the only one that has changed the oil since new. I do have a metal housing on the shelf, if I ever need it, but so far, the plastic has held up well.
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Old 11-18-2022, 03:05 PM #18
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Tanker View Post
That's exactly where I am. After watching the video, I ordered a replacement plastic from McGeorge Toyota ($99).
I like to always have backups just in case but when I went to order the dealer said it was something like $100.... I had no idea....

99 is still high for a peace of quality plastic, but at least I now know its not going to be $30. lol
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Old 11-18-2022, 03:43 PM #19
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I have the original (I guess) plastic housing. I bought the truck, used, from Toyota dealer.
First time I removed the housing, it was too tight. Since I change my own oil, it has never been too tight since.

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Old 11-18-2022, 04:00 PM #20
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I swapped out the plastic housing for the metal one. Probably used the spring on the new metal housing.

Checked a video and the guy said the springs look the same. They didn't look different to me at the time. I suppose the simple answer is whether the Toyota part numbers are the same for both springs.

I'd think if they were different parts that caused a failure mode, there would be a lot more talk about it.

Going to change the oil and filter more often than 10,000 miles though.

Last edited by TommyG; 11-18-2022 at 04:13 PM.
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Old 11-18-2022, 04:46 PM #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by TommyG View Post
I swapped out the plastic housing for the metal one. Probably used the spring on the new metal housing.

Checked a video and the guy said the springs look the same. They didn't look different to me at the time. I suppose the simple answer is whether the Toyota part numbers are the same for both springs.

I'd think if they were different parts that caused a failure mode, there would be a lot more talk about it.

Going to change the oil and filter more often than 10,000 miles though.
They looked the same to me as well, but I'm not sure we can tell for sure. It seems you can't order the tube, spring, baseplate and housing separately.
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Old 11-20-2022, 02:05 PM #22
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i'm one of those weird cases where the metal filter housing never fit right. got the right p/n, bought from a dealer (to avoid Amazon fakes), installed with the correct internal tube and the O-ring in the right recess. the housing never truly bottomed out or snugged up even when it couldn't tighten anymore at the correct torque, and weeped oil around the seam with the filter mount when the engine was running.

took it off, went back to stock plastic, never an issue. as long as the plastic isn't hulk-smashed to way beyond its intended torque, especially with all the pressure on the ears, it should be fine.

now that i think about it more, for all the talk about how well toyota engineers these trucks to be relatively bombproof, its a bit funny we take off one of the most critical fluid system components and replace it strictly thinking we know better than the engineers. aside from installer error, if you blow through your skidplate clearance so hard you've cracked the plastic filter housing, you might be having bigger problems than an oil leak.
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Old 11-20-2022, 06:34 PM #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidniteTRD View Post
i'm one of those weird cases where the metal filter housing never fit right. got the right p/n, bought from a dealer (to avoid Amazon fakes), installed with the correct internal tube and the O-ring in the right recess. the housing never truly bottomed out or snugged up even when it couldn't tighten anymore at the correct torque, and weeped oil around the seam with the filter mount when the engine was running.

took it off, went back to stock plastic, never an issue. as long as the plastic isn't hulk-smashed to way beyond its intended torque, especially with all the pressure on the ears, it should be fine.

now that i think about it more, for all the talk about how well toyota engineers these trucks to be relatively bombproof, its a bit funny we take off one of the most critical fluid system components and replace it strictly thinking we know better than the engineers. aside from installer error, if you blow through your skidplate clearance so hard you've cracked the plastic filter housing, you might be having bigger problems than an oil leak.
Excellent post! Isn't it amazing that people think they know more than the engineers. Just like oil interval changes.
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Old 11-20-2022, 07:22 PM #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidniteTRD View Post
i'm one of those weird cases where the metal filter housing never fit right. got the right p/n, bought from a dealer (to avoid Amazon fakes), installed with the correct internal tube and the O-ring in the right recess. the housing never truly bottomed out or snugged up even when it couldn't tighten anymore at the correct torque, and weeped oil around the seam with the filter mount when the engine was running.

took it off, went back to stock plastic, never an issue. as long as the plastic isn't hulk-smashed to way beyond its intended torque, especially with all the pressure on the ears, it should be fine.

now that i think about it more, for all the talk about how well toyota engineers these trucks to be relatively bombproof, its a bit funny we take off one of the most critical fluid system components and replace it strictly thinking we know better than the engineers. aside from installer error, if you blow through your skidplate clearance so hard you've cracked the plastic filter housing, you might be having bigger problems than an oil leak.

The cause of the plastic unit failures is not from "blowing through skid plate clearance" or an impact as it sounds like you are implying. It is due to someone over tightening the unit. User error, certainly.

Your issue reminds me of several others who had leaking issues due to installing the large o-ring in the wrong groove. There are two grooves that the o-ring will sit in and without much scrutiny both appear correct. However, the lower groove (as installed), that is machined, is the correct one.

There is no reason the aluminum unit wouldn't work. The only differences between the two are very minor, non functional, and due to the plastic unit is designed for injection molding, and the aluminum for die casting. All of the critical interfaces (seals, threads, clearance, mating, etc..) and general geometry is otherwise identical. I've done similar manufacturing type design changes in the past (Cast -> Injection Molded)

With all of that said, i also agree there is absolutely nothing faulty with the stock plastic unit.

Last edited by Bmnorm2; 11-20-2022 at 07:27 PM.
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Old 11-20-2022, 07:40 PM #25
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Ď18 SR5. 50,750 miles. Original filter housing. From the first change onward Iíve had a local, family owned lube shop do the work. Iím a senior and I donít have the circumstances to comfortably do my own changes.

Reading posts about this subject in the past, Iíve inquired about a metal canister from the lube shop. He carries them and if they break the OEM plastic units they automatically install the metal. To date, theyíve not broken the plastic one.
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Old 11-20-2022, 11:05 PM #26
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Changed to Toyota Aluminum Oil Filter Housing

I changed to the aluminum oil filter housing on the 1st oil change service at 5,000 miles. Swapped the internal tube and spring over from the plastic housing. Also, I do my own to services using the proper torque for both the oil filter housing and oil pan drain plug.
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Old 11-21-2022, 04:26 PM #27
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2013 Trail with 100K on the odometer, no issues with OEM original (plastic) oil filter housing.
I do my own oil changes (every 5K).
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Old 11-21-2022, 05:54 PM #28
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I change my oil so often I figured I'd wear the plastic one out.
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Old 11-22-2022, 01:09 AM #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bmnorm2 View Post
The cause of the plastic unit failures is not from "blowing through skid plate clearance" or an impact as it sounds like you are implying. It is due to someone over tightening the unit. User error, certainly.

Your issue reminds me of several others who had leaking issues due to installing the large o-ring in the wrong groove. There are two grooves that the o-ring will sit in and without much scrutiny both appear correct. However, the lower groove (as installed), that is machined, is the correct one.

There is no reason the aluminum unit wouldn't work. The only differences between the two are very minor, non functional, and due to the plastic unit is designed for injection molding, and the aluminum for die casting. All of the critical interfaces (seals, threads, clearance, mating, etc..) and general geometry is otherwise identical. I've done similar manufacturing type design changes in the past (Cast -> Injection Molded)

With all of that said, i also agree there is absolutely nothing faulty with the stock plastic unit.
i specifically mentioned overtightening particularly using the ears as pressure points for that reason. doesn't surprise me at all they would fail that way, but as you mentioned that's on the installer not the engineers. most dealer techs in particular probably aren't giving much thought to their torque setting, unfortunately but not surprisingly.

i've posted about my experience a couple times on this form but to answer your question, the o-ring was correct. all OEM parts. watched a bunch of tutorials as well as forum installations warning about the pitfalls (ring groove, swapping the tube, etc) and double checked the o-ring position when i took it back off because my first thought was that i messed that up. i have no explanation, i certainly WANTED it to work - like you said it should have been plug and play...but it just didn't work for me and i wanted to put my experience out there. its certainly possible i got a mislabeled part or the wrong part was put into an open-box return or something. no idea. glad most people here are having success though.
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Old 11-22-2022, 05:06 AM #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MidniteTRD View Post
i'm one of those weird cases where the metal filter housing never fit right. got the right p/n, bought from a dealer (to avoid Amazon fakes), installed with the correct internal tube and the O-ring in the right recess. the housing never truly bottomed out or snugged up even when it couldn't tighten anymore at the correct torque, and weeped oil around the seam with the filter mount when the engine was running.
...

I had the same problem on my first attempt. I had the O-ring in the wrong spot. IIRC the label on the box that the 4Runner filter comes in tells you where to put the O-ring on the plastic filter holder. And that's the wrong place for the O-ring on the metal filter holder. It's kind of a quantum entanglement ;)

When you have the O-ring in the proper location, the metal filter holder spins on easily by hand and snuggs up flush. No leaks -- just an added bonus.

Main thing is whichever you choose, if it's working for you, then fine.
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