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Old 11-17-2022, 06:54 PM #1
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How many of you have replaced their plastic oil filter housing?

Words of advice from the Car Care Nut. TOYOTA OWNERS! PLEASE Don't Make These Mistakes With Oil Filters! - YouTube
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Old 11-17-2022, 07:18 PM #2
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I have just because. No issues with either one.
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Old 11-17-2022, 07:24 PM #3
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 03_4x4Runner View Post
You should add a poll so this thread actually has some value.

I changed mine "just cuz". If appropriately installed/uninstalled, the composite version is not inherently "bad" and likely has life expectancy well beyond average use. I know there are some on here with several 100k with the stock composite and no issues.
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Old 11-17-2022, 08:01 PM #4
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I discovered Toyota Dealer overtightened plastic housing when I began doing my own oil changes and had to use a cheater pipe on a 1/2-inch flex handle breaker bar to remove it. Plastic housing cracked and I replaced it with a metal one.
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How many of you have replaced their plastic oil filter housing?-img_2409-jpg 

Last edited by DougR; 11-17-2022 at 11:00 PM.
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Old 11-17-2022, 08:02 PM #5
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Swapped mine out on the first oil change. Cracked one of the ears as whoever did it prior over tightened it. No issues since. No issues with our Lexus that has metal either.
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Old 11-17-2022, 08:04 PM #6
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I like him already because he called spin on users, lazy.

The only issues I have seen with the plastic housing is user error. Many have gone with the metal housing without issues and part of the process of going to the metal housing is swapping the stand pipe.
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Old 11-17-2022, 08:10 PM #7
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I bought a metal but so far the plastic housing is doing well.
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Old 11-17-2022, 09:31 PM #8
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Yeah, I did the aluminum housing swap.

I subscribe to the Car Care Nut's channel and saw that video.

It did occur to me that bending tabs for the swap was a bit hokey. Haven't had any problems yet after three changes.

One thing he did prompt me to consider are potential differences in spring rates. I was focused on the tube swap and can't say I paid any attention to which spring I ended up re-installing.
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Old 11-17-2022, 09:44 PM #9
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I have a 2014 and a 2022
I changed the one on the 2014 at 50k miles---- after 10 oil changes the plastic one was getting sketchy.
I did the one on my 22 at 2500 miles first oil change.

Both are holding up well and I find them fool proof vs the plastic one, which seemed like an unnecessary point of possible failure. I worried about it cracking at exactly the wrong time - like while doing an oil change on sunday afternoon in the winter when the dealer is closed.
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Old 11-17-2022, 10:35 PM #10
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316.6K miles on a 2014 SR5 with original composite oil filter housing. No issues and I do all the oil changes in exchange for occasional sex with the owner (wife).
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Old 11-18-2022, 02:49 AM #11
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I have a 2014 TE 4runner with a little over 165k miles. I've done every oil change myself at 5k mile intervals. Still using the original plastic housing without any issues but I use my torque wrench every time. Same procedure for my 2017 Tundra with over 65k miles on that one. Never any issues removing the housing or drain plug. I will add that I have an oil filter socket that fits the housing perfect without stressing the tabs on the housing.

With all that being said, I like the simplicity of the oil filter setup of my 4.0 4th gen but I really like how GM did it with the LS line of engines.
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Old 11-18-2022, 09:33 AM #12
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Quote:
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316.6K miles on a 2014 SR5 with original composite oil filter housing. No issues and I do all the oil changes in exchange for occasional sex with the owner (wife).
same.
less mileage.
and not with your wife.
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Old 11-18-2022, 12:58 PM #13
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Quote:
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Yeah, I did the aluminum housing swap.

I subscribe to the Car Care Nut's channel and saw that video.

It did occur to me that bending tabs for the swap was a bit hokey. Haven't had any problems yet after three changes.

One thing he did prompt me to consider are potential differences in spring rates. I was focused on the tube swap and can't say I paid any attention to which spring I ended up re-installing.
That's exactly where I am. After watching the video, I ordered a replacement plastic from McGeorge Toyota ($99).
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Old 11-18-2022, 01:23 PM #14
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 5thToy View Post
Yeah, I did the aluminum housing swap.

I subscribe to the Car Care Nut's channel and saw that video.

It did occur to me that bending tabs for the swap was a bit hokey. Haven't had any problems yet after three changes.

One thing he did prompt me to consider are potential differences in spring rates. I was focused on the tube swap and can't say I paid any attention to which spring I ended up re-installing.
Bending the tabs is no different then a cotter pin or lockwasher tab. You bend it into place to lock, you bend it out of place to unlock. Obviously repeated bending will eventually cause a fatigue failure, but this is a one time go.

If you look closely, the tube bottom flange has a raised spot. You are bending the tabs so that you can remove the tube. On installation you would push the tabs back into place.
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Old 11-18-2022, 01:36 PM #15
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Bending the tabs is no different then a cotter pin or lockwasher tab. You bend it into place to lock, you bend it out of place to unlock. Obviously repeated bending will eventually cause a fatigue failure, but this is a one time go.

If you look closely, the tube bottom flange has a raised spot. You are bending the tabs so that you can remove the tube. On installation you would push the tabs back into place.
Yep, that's exactly what I did and agree the one-time deformation isn't likely to cause an issue.

Who knows which spring I used though an wether or not there is a difference...

I may go back to the plastic for peace of mind and keep the metal assembly as a backup in case the plastic cracks or breaks, which sounds unlikely as I do my own changes.

Last edited by 5thToy; 11-18-2022 at 01:39 PM.
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