[DannyLlama]

I crawled the forum and was not able to find a post about replacing the hood struts.

1. Does Anyone have the part number handy

2. How to? nothing on youtube. Only for the 4th gen

For those who are wondering. I'm at 125k miles.

[repo]

Go to partsouq.com and put in your vin and browse body category. Get p/n and order from mcgeorge. Have a trusted and sober helper hold up the hood while you unbolt the old ones and put on the new ones. There's most likely cheaper ones available from liftsupportsdepot.com and other places. Not sure how exactly the top disconnects but it looks like you start with sticking a screwdriver in that slot I would assume.

[2021nightshade4x4]

Originally Posted by DannyLlama

I crawled the forum and was not able to find a post about replacing the hood struts.

1. Does Anyone have the part number handy

2. How to? nothing on youtube. Only for the 4th gen

For those who are wondering. I'm at 125k miles.

Did the OEM struts last long enough that you’d like to buy more OEM ones, or perform so poorly that you’d consider aftermarket ones?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Pavement Tested]

Specifications for the replacement hood lift struts on Rock Auto for a 2010 4Runner show that the strut is ~10.3" when fully compressed, ~16.5" when fully extended and have a lifting force of about 65 lbs.

They have ball and socket or cup type ends with a spring retaining clip. To get them off you need a sturdy pick tool or a small flat screwdriver. Just pry the retainer springs off the ends and they'll come off the ball studs.

To install the new ones you just press the socket or cup, with the retainer spring on it, down onto the ball stud and they will snap into place.

Please note (although it shouldn't need to be): You must support the hood when removing the old struts.

[DannyLlama]

Bump ...... can't figure out which parts need to be replaced? Just the struts or the entire assembly? Does anyone replace and have info?

[313n703]

Originally Posted by DannyLlama

Bump ...... can't figure out which parts need to be replaced? Just the struts or the entire assembly? Does anyone replace and have info?

I believe only the struts needed to be replaced, unless you need to replace the attached parts on the hood and fender.

I also need to replace the ones on my 2010. I found the OEM part numbers, 534500W190 (Left) and 534400W230 (Right). There are also aftermarket ones for cheaper, like Strong Arm Lift Support. I may just stick with the OEM ones, since they lasted 12 years.

[Humble Leader]

Originally Posted by 313n703

I believe only the struts needed to be replaced, unless you need to replace the attached parts on the hood and fender.

I also need to replace the ones on my 2010. I found the OEM part numbers, 534500W190 (Left) and 534400W230 (Right). There are also aftermarket ones for cheaper, like Strong Arm Lift Support. I may just stick with the OEM ones, since they lasted 12 years.

I used these part #s about a year ago to replace my hood struts. they are labelled as separate part #s but really they are the exact same. must be because you can order the assembly as well which is different for each side

OP:
very easy to replace. get a squeeze or trigger clamp for wood working and prop the hood and use the clamp under the chamber to stop the hood from closing. use a flat head screw driver and pry the little metal clip on the top and bottom of the strut where it seats, then give a good tug and it will come out. replace and push the clips in on the new strut to lock in place. 2 minutes per side. if you've replaced your liftgate struts it's basically the same exercise

[Ezlife45]

If you aren't stuck on OEM you should be able to get struts at your local auto parts store.

[Jeremy556]

I just replaced my hood struts a couple months ago. I can't speak to their long term longevity, but I couldn't resist their price vs. OEM. ‎S80T-2337 <$20 shipped from Amazon. IIRC OEM was >$200.

I'm normally a 100% OEM parts only guy, and normally don't even consider aftermarket parts, but being a non-important component the price difference is hard to ignore.

It would not surprise me if these fail in a month or two and I end up having to buy OEM anyway, as that's usually how trying to save money on aftermarket parts works out, but we'll see.