I have a 2 wire VVT solenoid connector from Bank 1 that a mouse bit right at the little blue rubber waterproof seals. I have a some pigtails on order but wanted to try to de-pin this thing.

It looks like these pictured here
https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_fro...gtail&_sacat=0

I got the little white plastic keeper out. I got the blue water seal / wire shrouds out. I have a small set of de-pin tools. What I can't figure out is where exactly are the little tabs that spring out to keep the terminal inserted? I have about 1/8" wire I can move slightly back and forth and I can see in / through the connector but I can't figure where I need apply pressure to get the little pieces to close in so the wire can be pulled out.

Can anyone explain or show me a picture of how these things are oriented?

Thansk,

TB

G Your best resource on Toyota connectors is the RAV4 Wiring Harness repair manual. It shows most Toyota connectors, the part numbers for the housing (the plastic part), the part numbers for repair wires, what repair wires fit in what housings, and the special tools needed to remove the wire pins. It is a great resource, but is a rather large document, thus it can be hard to find the details you need. See if you can find the part number for the connector housing; it is often molded right on the housing; it will be very, very small, so you may need a bright light and a magnifying glass to see it. Once you get the housing part number, you can do a PDF search to find that housing in the repair manual.

The "white plastic keeper" you mentioned is really the secondary lock. You don't need to remove it, just lift it away from the body. The repair manual shows how all this works.

https://www.toyota-tech.eu/wire_harness_rm/RM06H0E.pdf

I forgot to mention, it may be much easier to just buy a new connector housing (they are relatively inexpensive) and new repair wires, rather than trying to de-pin the existing connector. Then you just spice the new repair wires onto the old wires. The OEM repair wires are rather expensive, but you can often find them for much less on Ebay or the internet. Just search for the repair wire part number.

Thanks, yes, I have ordered some replacement pigtail connectors from eBay. I just wanted to know how these things work in case of emergency.

Now that you mention it I seem to recall having some connector data from the 2010 4runner docs but had forgotten.

There is a part number down inside 11162 the 6 could be an 8 but I think it's a 6. I'll check the link you posted when I get through working tonight or tomorrow.

Thanks for your help.

TB

OK, yes. Def. 11162 and I suppose the internals are on page 347 center page next to block letter "F".


6mm low insertion force.

Still can't quite figure how it comes apart. I'll read through the instructions later.

Thanks for the info.

TB

Pull the retaining tab from the middle, then use a needle and push it in the gap above the terminal so it pushes the 1-way tab on top of each terminal, push forward a little to get it to release then pull out. It should wiggle out. That's how I have done it in the past when doing wire tucks.

I've tried that and it still won't release. One problem I have is that the wires are chewed of right flush with back end of connector so I can just barely pinch about 1/16" to 1/8" of wire but can't pry -and- push / pull it. It just slips away.

When you say "top" I don't really see anything to pry up there. "Top" being the section that has the plastic clip that hold the connector onto the solenoid.

Now I do see a flat tab on bottom that is pushed flat into the housing and I was able to get under that but not able to pull wire loose.

Once I get the new ones and get them working again, I may have to cut one side this one with a rotary tool just to see how it works. Then try to release the other side.

Some of that Toyota data posted above said to actually go in from the wire side.

You will find that connector housing on page D6 (24 or 94/451) of the wiring harness repair manual I cited above. (The full part number is 90980-11162). You will find what repair wires go to it on page E-37 (293 or 363/451).


The connector housing is only $11 MSRP but it appears you can get the housing with the wires already in it many places (Amazon, Ebay, etc) Just do a Google search using that part number. That is the route I would go rather than trying to remove the existing pins and install new repair wires.

The secondary lock will be a bar that you lift. It should be on the opposite side of the finger tab to release the connector.

Thanks , my repair parts arrived today... 4 days early !!!

I read all of that info and se the connectors / wires but in the "C" section I can't figure which connector they are demonstrating. I have tried several areas and can't quite figure which piece and where I am supposed to trying to pry on.

I thought it would be a good learning experience... and it was.... buy more spares.

I was going to do a temp repair while waiting on the parts. Luckily I can probably fix this tomorrow.

Thanks for the info!

TB