Iconic Fabrication makes a number of products for the FJ and one of them, rear recovery points will bolt on the 4R so I've ordered a set of those.
They were originally sold through a now closed group buy thread on this forum.

Their other product is a great bracket for a FJ's transmission cooler which can also be purchased with a Hayden 678 or 698 cooler install kit.



FJ Cruiser Transmission Cooler Bracket Kit
– Iconic Fabrication

I asked the owner, Devon about a chance for a 5th Gen kit and all he needs is a volunteer or two to allow him to first measure up their 4R in the radiator area and then come back a month later for a fit check.

The reason I said a volunteer or two is because I don't know if there are any changes from 2010 - 2023 radiator mounting that might affect the location of holes or fitment of the cooler. So maybe someone with a 2010 and someone with a 2020 or later model could volunteer? Devon is located in Salina, about 40 miles west of Junction City, Kansas.

All I get out of this is Devon having a new 5th Gen trans cooler kit in stock for me to order. Practically speaking, that might not be until summer.

You can contact Devon directly through his web page at
Contact
– Iconic Fabrication

I hadn't heard anything back from Devon so I emailed him. It turns out he didn't make anything for a 5th gen so I'll go back to hacking together my own brackets and buy a cooler and other parts.

Odd. He'd sell 10x the volume of 4Runner ...

Damn. Would have been nice not have those through radiator plastic tie downs.

It might be possible to buy Iconic's FJ bracket and modify it to bolt into a 5th Gen

Bummer I was hoping this would be made

Yes, even Devon said "....I think the 5th gen 4runner crowd will have a large demand."

Back in February things shared in email looked promising so I guess in the months in between then and now something changed.
I bought a pair of the rear shackle brackets from Devon and would have been happy to give him more business. He makes great stuff.

I still have the cooler I had on my 4th Gen. It's a Toyota OEM trans cooler that was on a V8 that was salvaged. It's not an easy bolt on to a 5th gen but I think I'll take a closer look at reusing it before I buy something that requires fabbing new brackets.

Otherwise I am back to scouring all of the relevant threads and cooler products to see which cooler to buy and find some aluminum to hacksaw, drill and file into a reasonably stiff and secure bracket.

Installed my cooler yesterday. It was definitely a pain getting your hands in tight spaces and routing hoses in the engine bay but totally doable. Definitely ran into issues with spacing and mounting etc since I have a winch in the way. I had to modify the mount a little bit. I'm going to monitor it to see if there's any issues with rubbing etc. I think later on I will totally reverse the whole cooler on the mount and give it more room, but that's down the road.

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Ordered a bracket for my stock TRDORP, I have a hayden 678 sitting in my garage waiting to be installed... I will post pics once I have it in

My bracket was delivered last week. It was shipped quickly, and I'm really happy with the quality. Yesterday I mounted the cooler, but ran out of time to make the connections into to the cooling loop. I didn't want to rush things, since this is the first time I've installed a cooler, so I wanted to step back and take another look at how/where people were making connections.





Between sketches here and youtube videos, it seems there are a few options. So taking all that info, I came up with some drawings based on other sketches in this thread that might help other noobs like me. Maybe I'm being paranoid, or just overly cautious, but I know trans fluid level is critical, and I'd rather not have to go through the drain/fill process right now.

So, after crawling around under the vehicle and looking at the various hoses and hard lines, here's my version of the sketches and options. Since I have not actually made my connections yet, the narrative on fluid loss during installation is only speculative. Comments are welcome and I can adjust the sketches as feedback is received. So have at it... let me know your thoughts...

zkengle

GREAT drawings! You captured things well.

Let me know how hard it is to get at the top of the OEM hard lines if you go that route. It's a cramped space. I eventually want to go the route of abandoning one of the OEM hard lines and shorten one of my hoses

@teotwaki - thank you! Hoping they help some people.

I'm going to make final connections this weekend and I'll be sure to post some pictures. My next camping trip isnext weekend, so that will be the test of how well this works.

I have some baseline temp readings for future comparison. On my ~20 mile evening commute I would hit around 185f A/T pan temp and about 200f max torque converter temp.



Towing about 3,000lbs to camp last weekend, I hit almost 220f A/T pan temp, with the TC maxing out at almost 240f. That was after 175 miles and heading up into the mountains of Northern PA (so nothing too crazy).


(Screenshots are from Torque app, connected to Veepeak OBDCheck BLE+ Bluetooth 4.0 OBD II Scanner. Ignore the avg mpg - that seems to calculate really high for my regular commute. Its fairly close for my camping trip, maybe just a little high.)

I'm still going back and forth on which option I'll go with. Option 3 seems like it would probably provide the least restricted flow, but I'm concerned about loosing too much fluid during the process.

So I think I'm leaning towards Option 2 right now - seems to be a good compromise with minimal risk for fluid loss. Still might even pour some fresh fluid in the hoses just for the heck of it. Obviously can't fill the whole cooler with fluid since it will be cold and the bypass will be open, but it seems like every little bit would help.