Any idea what the issues were? A local shop (Mike's Toys in Grants Pass) who does a lot of Toyota work is willing to give it a go, but it would be good to be able to give them a heads-up of any anticipated issues.

Thanks!

Apparently the alternator sits farther back than the drive system. That's pretty much all I was able to get.

So some spacers might do the trick? Better than having to cut. Thanks!

Yeah that's what I'm thinking but I'm not entirely sure until someone tries and actually gives me some decent info.

I am willing to give it a shot. Not afraid to make the attempt.

Hey, that's great! Will you go to @DCPower_Anthony 's shop or do the install yourself?

Either way, please let us know how it goes!

Hey @DCPower_Anthony ...,

Just a thought: ...what if one of us with an ...After 2017 OEM 4Runner (SR5, Trail, Limited, TRD...etc, sent you a "Core/Dead alternator's End-frame Still assembled" that's being replaced; "...someone already has one from a 2018 or later(?)!" Couldn't you get your "EXACT MEASUREMENTS" from that, and cast a set-of End-frames from those architectural structured design measurements for an Up-dated 270-XP?

No one would need ta lose a daily-driver, or time Trailing, or Mall-Crawling...(?)!

~rig~ Just-a-thought...! Best to you!

I am no where near DCPower shop....so that would not be an option. I can do most mech work short of rebuilding a transmission.

I can get cores, that's not the issue. It's whatever is around the alternator has changed. The factory alternator is much smaller than the 270XP which means it was unaffected by the change.

Send me a private message and will get this going.

@DCPower_Anthony @lewdog998 any progress on this? Waiting with bated breath...

Awesome product,,,,,, here is my thread where i installed...

High Power Alternator install

I'd like to see DC Power offer a high-output alternator for 2018+ 4Runners, but in the meantime, I implemented a different solution for charging my auxiliary battery bank from the OEM alternator using a DC-DC charger, without having to worry about the alternator overheating: install a temperature sensor on the alternator housing and measure high temps on a hot day. Mine hit 175 degrees F, and that wasn't even on the hottest day, but from that I know that the OEM alternator can withstand at least 175 degrees F.

Then I installed an ignition-switched On/Off switch on the dashboard to send power to a relay that powers the DC-DC charger only when the vehicle is running and the switch is turned on. So I can use the On/Off switch to manually start the charging when the temperature sensor display (which I also installed on the dashboard) shows that the alternator is fairly cool, and manually stop the charging when I see the alternator getting too hot, i.e. approaching 175 degrees. This way I can prevent the alternator from overheating because of the added load of charging the auxiliary batteries. This kept my battery bank topped up on a recent long road trip.

This is a great solution and very similar to what I plan to do; although I was going to trust the "Ignition On" feature in the Victron charger to detect that the battery is on. My bank size is targeted at 3kWh (125Ah @ 24V nominal), and they can take up to 25A when charging (really, a lot more but 0.2C is optimal), so that's 725W at the batteries (25A @ 29V final bulk charge) before DC-DC efficiency is factored in (Victron isn't great, about 88%!), so that's about 58A at the alternator, assuming 14V.

I was trying to estimate the available power from the alternator (headroom). The best I could come up with is the fact that the built-in inverter is good for 400W when parked (engine running), but only 100W when driving. 100W would take a long time to recharge my bank, but maybe I could use the shore power charger @ 100W in to give some power to the batteries until a new alternator solution is available.

You could set up a simple window comparator circuit, trip and reset points at maybe 175F and 150F, and maybe an additional 3 minute lockout after tripping (so 3 mins min and <150F to reconnect) to automate your operation.

I'd never connect lithium batteries (these are LiFePO4) directly to a vehicle alternator; that way lay madness

My battery bank is smaller (two 92Ah LiFePO4 batteries in parallel at 12V), but the manufacturer's recommended maximum charge current at cool temperatures is 46A, so I have a RedArc BCDC1240D, which charges at 40A continuous. RedArc recommends a 60A fuse at the starter battery, so the draw on the alternator is probably not too far from your 58A setup. I was able to charge while driving at highway speeds for long periods of time with no problem, so that suggests that the OEM alternator would be able to handle the 58A draw from your Victron charger. But to be safe, I was charging only when I did not have the heater or other high-amp loads running. I haven't tested it with multiple high-amp OEM loads running simultaneously. But even with only intermittent charging, 40A bulk charging is enough to keep my batteries charged, given my typical electrical usage and time spent driving each day.